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  • Installing/configuring

    Ok, so i got the drivers downloaded.. And i have an older version of the control centre software.. WHen I plug in my brain, windows says its found soem unrecognized hardware, and it refuses to use the drivers i downloaded for it.. I checked the VID and PID in device manager, and theyre both 0000... So i dunno.. Im guessing this can all be solved by reading the user manual i saw linked to here however I cant get to it (yep, .pdf files are blocked as well) so i dunno. Someone wanna rename it to .jpg and upload it somewhere for me? Or perhaps someone knows the answer to my problems
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  • #2
    Please take a screenshot of the VID and PID in device manager.

    The drivers seem to work just fine on our end.

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    • #3
      i moved a jumper and got it installed, though it intermittently will 'fail to start' according to device manager, and sometimes it will show up as unreognized..
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      • #4
        Originally posted by inh View Post
        i moved a jumper and got it installed, though it intermittently will 'fail to start' according to device manager, and sometimes it will show up as unreognized..
        What is your power source, and are you using it through a hub? If it is a hub, is it USB1.0 or USB2.0?
        Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
        1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
        30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
        15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
        Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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        • #5
          Straight in to my laptop, also tried it on another laptop (runnign vista) and it had the same issue.

          Its being powered by the 110-240 -> 12v power supply from the Travala case that powers my mini itx setup. The only other powersupply i have around is the one for my lilliput, but that needs to be steped down to 110 volt first, and i dont wanna dig out my 240 -> 110 convertor.
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          Space Navigator - 6 Axis input device: Take it apart - Driver App
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          • #6
            Originally posted by inh View Post
            i moved a jumper and got it installed, though it intermittently will 'fail to start' according to device manager, and sometimes it will show up as unreognized..
            moved what jumper?

            We test these boards before we ship them, the jumpers on the boards should stay in their position...

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            • #7
              The jumper group closest to the indicator LEDs. I moved it from jumping pins 7-8 to 1-2, though i think if i move it back its fine. Also, what does the other jumper block do, up by the inputs?

              Oh, and, by the way, found the problem Cold solder join on the voltage input pin of the regulator.

              Works fine when i mash the pin against the hole, or use something to complete the circuit. I have a soldering iron here, though i don't think i have any solder =/ I'll see what i can work out. Not the best pic but its about all i could manage. you can see the space around the pin where there should be solder, and how the pin isn't as far back in the hole like the other two.

              Finally, now that i got it working, and got the latest control centre, all the skins seem to be reading the analog inputs, though i've yet to actually get a real temperature reading out of it, just seems to display the voltage, and it seems the digital outputs aren't working, or at least the LEDs arent coming on when i press the buttons in the skin...
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              • #8
                The LEDs should light if pins 7 and 8 are jumpered.

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                • #9
                  I'll go try that now, because i have pins 1-2 jumped. Jus tout of curiousity, what are those jumpers for?
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                  Space Navigator - 6 Axis input device: Take it apart - Driver App
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                  • #10
                    You have pins 1 and 2 jumpered? Why did you do that?! Take that off immediately. I made sure that they all shipped over pins 7-8 because those are the ONLY pins that should be jumpered.



                    Pin 1 & 2 (on the left) are used for an external power LED.
                    Pins 3,4,5 & 6 are mystery jumpers, not to be used by the end user.
                    Pins 7 & 8 (on the right) must be jumpered for any of the output LED's to work. Without that being jumpered, no output leds will light.

                    If you short Pins 1 & 2, you are shorting the board out. Dont ever ever ever ever ever ever ever do that. Why did you do that?! What gave you that idea? I didnt say it anywhere did I? If I did, I need to find and edit that, because that is bad.
                    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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                    • #11
                      No , i didnt read it anywhere, i was just trying different things to see if i could get the board to work. I'd definatly take the time to label at least pins 1-2 and 7-8 on the next revision, so mistakes like that dont happen again. It looks like you have pin 2 running through a resistor for an external led, so that should have prevented a complete short. I'd guess its around 100 ohms, for current limiting the external led. I'll definatly make sure NOT to do that next time though =]

                      The brain now works pretty well, just having issues with the skin designer saving my changes as soon as i can narrow down whats goin on ill let you know
                      cashtexts - Earn money for receiving text messaged offers
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                      Space Navigator - 6 Axis input device: Take it apart - Driver App
                      RRCam - Video/webcam capture, text overlay, and recording: 2.0 Stable

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by inh View Post
                        No , i didnt read it anywhere, i was just trying different things to see if i could get the board to work. I'd definatly take the time to label at least pins 1-2 and 7-8 on the next revision, so mistakes like that dont happen again. It looks like you have pin 2 running through a resistor for an external led, so that should have prevented a complete short. I'd guess its around 100 ohms, for current limiting the external led. I'll definatly make sure NOT to do that next time though =]

                        The brain now works pretty well, just having issues with the skin designer saving my changes as soon as i can narrow down whats goin on ill let you know
                        yes a complete short didnt happen, but USB is extremely picky, and something like that can actually disturb it.

                        As for the skin designer, if you are more specific about it I might be able to help out.
                        Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                        1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                        30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                        15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                        Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The skin designer doesnt like to overwrite existing skins... it just crashes..

                          also, is there a way already, or could it be implemented, so that you dont have to name the skin you want to use fusionformdynamic.skin, maybe just a simple config.ini with a skinname setting? this wont be such a big deal when the skin editor will overwrite existing skins, but until then its been annoying having to rename a skin each time i make a change..

                          edit: by the way, i resoldered that joint, and theres been no real problems since. i've noticed that if the brain sits there for awhile (few hours usally, but almost always at least one hour) then when i start the control centre app, the temp sensor readings start off as like, -5, then -456 then -something until it ends up like -2895984979348679.9 usually incrementing a few numbers each time the software refreshes the reading.. sometimes unplugging the usb and plugging back in works, other times i have to power cycle. It also seems as tho if the USB is plugged in and then i plug in power, the device will 'fail to start' according to device manager. maybe implement a simple software delay to keep from initializing the usb interface until everythign on the device is absolutly ready to go? i think like 3 seconds is all it needs.
                          cashtexts - Earn money for receiving text messaged offers
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                          Space Navigator - 6 Axis input device: Take it apart - Driver App
                          RRCam - Video/webcam capture, text overlay, and recording: 2.0 Stable

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                          • #14
                            ugh... so, of course, after i type that all is goin pretty good, my brain decideds to not play nice anymore.. it woudl do the same thing, where it would either come up as unrecognized, or fail to start, and rarely, it woould load up fine. like, once in 30 tries...

                            i think i narrowed it down.. i tried different power supplies, to no avail. i went over all the solder joints on the board, noticed the crystal wasnt soldered perfectly, fixed that, and i think i fixed a join on a digital output. also went over the repair on the regulator, and touched up the other two pins as well. no difference.

                            then it hit me. i think the problem is with the power input.. it feels kinda rough when i plug in the power adaptor.. so i'm thinking that the voltage to the regulator fluctates a bit while the connector is sliding in.. in turn causing the PIC to go a lil crazy. If i stop pushing the connector in as soon as the led comes on, or i use a switch placed before the ac adaptor it works perfect, like 99% of the time...

                            i think it just needs a small buffer circuit between the power connector and the regulator. a lil cap should do the trick nicely. if i wasn't stuck over here i'd order one and solder it up to test.. Heres a site that shows what I'm talking about (Also, you may have done this already, and i just havent looked hard enough at the board) just something to think about for the next revision (hopefully they aren't too far away.) Also, I would love to be able to ground the digital inputs and have them trigger, as this would be much simpler wiring wise. lastly, why not ditch the DIP sockets, and have the chips soldered directly to the board? you could use a small header to program the PIC.. Oh, and if it was cost reasons you had the sockets installed, you could switch to SMD chips and it should be much cheaper..

                            Just tryin to help =] Sorry if im annoying.. just want to help improve this awesome product for everyone.
                            cashtexts - Earn money for receiving text messaged offers
                            cashtexts review not a scam
                            Space Navigator - 6 Axis input device: Take it apart - Driver App
                            RRCam - Video/webcam capture, text overlay, and recording: 2.0 Stable

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by inh View Post
                              ugh... so, of course, after i type that all is goin pretty good, my brain decideds to not play nice anymore.. it woudl do the same thing, where it would either come up as unrecognized, or fail to start, and rarely, it woould load up fine. like, once in 30 tries...

                              i think i narrowed it down.. i tried different power supplies, to no avail. i went over all the solder joints on the board, noticed the crystal wasnt soldered perfectly, fixed that, and i think i fixed a join on a digital output. also went over the repair on the regulator, and touched up the other two pins as well. no difference.

                              then it hit me. i think the problem is with the power input.. it feels kinda rough when i plug in the power adaptor.. so i'm thinking that the voltage to the regulator fluctates a bit while the connector is sliding in.. in turn causing the PIC to go a lil crazy. If i stop pushing the connector in as soon as the led comes on, or i use a switch placed before the ac adaptor it works perfect, like 99% of the time...

                              i think it just needs a small buffer circuit between the power connector and the regulator. a lil cap should do the trick nicely. if i wasn't stuck over here i'd order one and solder it up to test.. Heres a site that shows what I'm talking about (Also, you may have done this already, and i just havent looked hard enough at the board) just something to think about for the next revision (hopefully they aren't too far away.)
                              We actually have 5 smoothing caps from the regulator to the PIC on there, as well as 1 bigger one from the power jack to the regulator and they seem to work except in your case... Seems a bit strange. If you look at the back (USB and DC jack facing you), you should see a can-capacitor directly to the left of the USB jack, and to the right of the large orange fuse. Do you have that capacitor? It seems like your board has some missing things so I might as well ask. And thanks for cooperating with us, not just ranting.

                              Originally posted by inh View Post
                              Also, I would love to be able to ground the digital inputs and have them trigger, as this would be much simpler wiring wise.
                              This is how they work. I probably goofed something in the software, so I will take a look. The only thing I didnt test thoroughly each time, were the digital inputs.


                              Originally posted by inh View Post
                              lastly, why not ditch the DIP sockets, and have the chips soldered directly to the board? you could use a small header to program the PIC.. Oh, and if it was cost reasons you had the sockets installed, you could switch to SMD chips and it should be much cheaper..
                              Actually we had smd drivers on the beta boards. They worked fine and all, until they needed to be replaced. If you accidentally short a digital output's high current pin to ground, the fuse cannot react quick enough for that, and in turn it blows out an entire circuit in the driver chip. So that output will never work again. Then shortly after that (and by shortly we are talking micro/nano seconds sort of timing), the PTC kicks in, and all is saved for then. But then that output is fried permanently. So with the smd, that is just the way it is, but with the DIPs in sockets, if Joe Schmo does this, he can replace it himself for like 40 cents rather than a whole new board at $50. Then the reasoning behing the PIC being DIP is just for ease of programming. Tim programs. and I ship. So he mails me all the programmed chips, I stick them in and test. Also if the analogue inputs receive more than 5v or less than 0v, the PIC will blow out that input. So again, that entire port is useless until it is fixed. So $8 compared to $50 again. The cost thing is not for us. It costs us more to go wth the DIP sized chips and the sockets, but it costs less for you guys if you do something accidentally, like try to measure the output with huge multimeter probes and blow up your chip (cough Tim cough ).

                              Originally posted by inh View Post
                              Just tryin to help =] Sorry if im annoying.. just want to help improve this awesome product for everyone.
                              We appreciate all the feedback, and you are most definately not annoying. It is good to have people like you who can diagnose, fix, and suggest improvements with the current design. You seem to be pretty well versed in electronics too!
                              Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                              1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                              30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                              15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                              Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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