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  • install update

    well. its in the car-mostly-and working. i'm just finishing up the wiring before i get back to more building. problem is i keep thinking up new ideas as i go along -- need more time!!!
    99.9% complete.

  • #2
    hey everybody...
    have a look. i just finished installing the door solenoids
    99.9% complete.


    • #3
      that looks like an awesome install. cant wait to see it completely finished.
      System: AMD Duron 1200+ , 512 MB ram , usb sb mp3+ , Tview 7" touchscreen , M1-ATX PSU , Slot Load iMac DVD-Rom , 40 GB laptop HDD, netgear USB 802.11g

      Progress: Installation: 90% Dash fabrication: 80%

      Parts Needed: USB GPS


      • #4
        Hey Albysure I'm not going to tell you what many others have told you. I'm sure you know what I mean. Compliments are good but will not help you improve your work. It only encourages you to do more wrong if no one takes the time to correct you. I have a few questions and suggestions if you don't mind. Are you a professional installer? Your project that you got going right now is a job that very few installers are capable of doing. How long have you been at your install? How long do you think you'll have it ready? I notice a few things about your install that you might be interested in.

        I notice that you have dynamatted the whole interior, which is good. It looks like you applied large square sheets of dynamat at a time. Did you use the whole piece of dynamat at a time? In my experience, dynamats should be applied in small strips on curvy bumpy surface and medium sized on totally flat surface. If you dynamat with large piece, you'll have air bubbles which defeats the purpose of dynamatting. Small strips will contour better and easier to work with and it wont wrinkle and don't have air pockets.

        Your idea for the box looks great. But do you know how long its going to take for you to glass half inch thick of fiberglass for top of the box? Lets just say a very long time. If your glass has air bubbles in it or not thick enough, those W3s are going to crack the glass the first bass note they produce. An easier way is to completely build the box with the angles you want your subs to face is out of at least 3/4" MDF. Make sure you completely seal the box. Then you fiberglass the top of the box with the contour that you originally planned for. It would take you half the time to glass 1/4" just strong enough that it doesn't flex when you push on the glass. When the bass hits, the pressure is on the MDF not the fiberglass. This will save you time on building the first box and rebuilding and fixing cracks if you using only fiberglass for the top.

        I heard that the parallel relay control board that you're using activates all the relays when the computer first turns on. That translates to both doors, hood, gas cap, trunk all open at the same time. That would be cool. Kinda like a self destruct function. I use a serial relay control board. Its way smaller than the parallel board. The only bad thing about my board is it doesn't come with software

        Is the remote relay board RF or IR? It would be pointless if its IR. That remote looks kind of big. Did you know that top of the line DEI alarm like the Sidewinder 7000 has 7 AUX outputs. The best part is it has an incredible range. My brother's Sidewinder 6500 works up to about a quarter mile away in a line of site. Since you're gonna have an alarm, why not use the same remote to activate everything that the remote relay board activates? One more thing on the alarm. Since you have your car all torn apart, there's gotta be a place to put that alarm besides under the dash. That's the first place anyone would look to find an alarm. On 88-94 GM full size trucks, I always put the alarm behind the glove box.

        Caps should be as close to the amp as possible. If the caps are close to the battery then it defeats the purpose of having caps. When the bass hits, amp needs power. If the cap is close by, it gets the power from the cap therefore reduce voltage drops. If the cap is the same distance as the battery, the power from the battery and the cap will reach the amp at the same time. You might as well ditch the cap and save you some headache and money.

        Since you're building a center console, why not put the DVD ROM below or near the monitor. That way, you can have access to the DVD player like a normal head unit instead of reaching behind you to change a disc. With how creative you are, Im sure you can extend all the necessary cables and wires for the DVD to be mounted in the dash somewhere .... cough USB2.0 cough firewire .....

        Fresh air from the outside is good. Fresh air from underneath the car, not so good. I really hope you gonna custom mold a carbon monoxide detector in your dash somewhere?

        One more thing. Does your door have grounding strap that connects the door to the chassis? I don't think your car does. There's a good reason why auto manufacturers run ground wires for power windows and door locks to the kick panel. Remember, The door is only grounded by the hinges. Run that extra wire for the solenoid to the kickpanel. It'll give it that extra oomph

        Im in no way of flaming you or your work. I just think that if you gonna go through all that effort putting a bad *** system in your car, don't make the same mistakes that others have already made and can't figure out what the problem was. It will save you a lot of time and less taste of soap in your mouth. Best of luck
        NEW complete and updated My project with 100+ pics on 7-4-03
        If you have a Shuttle FV24 motherboard in perfect working condition for sale, please PM me.


        • #5
          that is awesome!!!!!!!!!!! love the paint work, did you spray it your self?

          plans look smicko


          • #6
            cproaudio-thanks for the ideas...

            i was an installer in the mid to early 80's for about 5 years. looooooooooong before any of this was really like it is now.

            i used larger pieces of the dynamatting only on the bigger flatter spaces. around the wheelwells i used smaller strips like you suggested. the silver stuff(raammaat) comes in 12" wide rolls. i don't think i had any air trapped underneath.

            you're right about the box for the subs! everytime i get in the car i think about the time to finish it. i'll prolly just use the mdf to frame it rough and get the shape i want and then bondo it up for the final. great idea

            yeah that relay board. i have installed a small adjustable delay circuit right next to it that--delays the amp turn-on--also powers the relay board. this is to avoid the computer pop on startup. so that problem is solved.

            that huge thing is ir. i was only goofing around over the winter and built that thing.
            but...when i got the car (1984) the alarm had a remote(state of the art) and a keypad. i don't know if you know what my doors look like but i cut into the arm rest and installed the keypad there. the alpine rep went nuts over this by the i have a hole there so i am going to use that remote to help run things for my presentation at car competetitions and it will fit nicely in the opening. otherwise i have to find another arm rest and color match it to mine. thats its only use. as i am walking around the car i can open the hatch and hood, front doors, fuel door(jack to connect to my home nertwork for loading mp3's) and stuff liike that. otherwise that thing will never be used.

            yeah i guess i crapped out on the caps. hey..we didn't have this stuff when i did this!! but damnnnnn its going to look good under plexi lit with neon!

            console. i tried to make a longer cable--been buying stuff for 2 years--tired of it and this is supposed to be all home made...cough...cough(lol). so i bought a 30" cable for the dvd. works fine. i will only be using the dvd for the gps cd or maybe if a friend has a cd that they want to hear. so i will really never have to turn around to get to it. i have most of my music loaded anyway--about 10 gb's right now and can add them through my home network while the car is in the driveway.

            the air should be all right. the top of the cabinets will be all sealed anyway. i have 3 fans mounted in it to direct the breeze. inlet, in the middle between chambers and outlet. the fans come on with the car.

  're right about the ground for the solenoids. i have had solenoids in the car ever since about when i bought it and have never had a ground problem but it will only add to the install so i'm going to add them today. thanks!

            i know you're only helping me out with your post. i'll be adding you to my list of people who want to help others on this forum. god knows i've seen enough who just give people **** instead of just keeping quiet.

            kardas--i didnt paint the car myself --a good friend did it in his garage. everything for only $1300! i've know him for over 20 years since he took body shop in high school. but i did paint the console out of a spray can.

            99.9% complete.



            • #7

              I just picked my jaw up off the floor to punch out this post!..

              that is really impressive, like all above, cant wait to see the final product. keep up the top level of work....
              Project - GAME OVER :(


              • #8
                thanks everybody!!!
                99.9% complete.