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  • General vehicle electrical question...

    I've been looking around on the web a bit since i've had this problem ever since i can remember. I think it's become slightly more noticeable since putting in my CarPC though.

    I have an amp and 2 10" subs in my car along with my carpc and whenever my subs hit hard and my headlights are on, i can see the headlights dimming slightly.

    My setup is as follows:
    - stock battery
    - stock alternator
    - 160w DC-DC carpc psu
    - 1F rockford fosgate capacitor
    - one phoenix gold 600.1 xenon mono amp
    - two xenon x10d4 subs (800w peak)

    my questions are;
    - what should i be looking into upgrade? my alternator?
    - my battery?
    - the power wire to my alternator from my battery?
    - the ground to the chassis from the battery?
    - get maybe another farad or 2 capacitor (which i read should be done after a good battery and alternator's installed)?

    i read about upgrading all of those things on different sites that were suggested to people that were running like 1200+ watt systems...

    i also read about swappin out the battery and getting a "deep cycle" battery, is this what i should be looking for?

    another thing i saw was someone suggesting to do this if "their system power is 1000 RMS watts or more", how do i establish this?

    any help is appreciated, any questions answered is also appreciated.

    Thanks in advance =D
    2006 Mazda 3 S Series
    2.3L 4cyl Engine

    Current Build
    - Commell LV-677 Motherboard
    - Intel Core 2 Duo T5500 CPU
    - Dual 512MB PC5300\667MHz RAM
    - Seagate 80GB SATA HDD
    - M2-ATX 160W PSU
    - Dynamix 8" LCD Touchscreen
    - VoomPC I Mini-ITX Case (Black)

  • #2
    Originally posted by iNcArCeRaTiOn View Post
    I've been looking around on the web a bit since i've had this problem ever since i can remember. I think it's become slightly more noticeable since putting in my CarPC though.

    I have an amp and 2 10" subs in my car along with my carpc and whenever my subs hit hard and my headlights are on, i can see the headlights dimming slightly.

    My setup is as follows:
    - stock battery
    - stock alternator
    - 160w DC-DC carpc psu
    - 1F rockford fosgate capacitor
    - one phoenix gold 600.1 xenon mono amp
    - two xenon x10d4 subs (800w peak)

    my questions are;
    - what should i be looking into upgrade? my alternator?
    - my battery?
    - the power wire to my alternator from my battery?
    - the ground to the chassis from the battery?
    - get maybe another farad or 2 capacitor (which i read should be done after a good battery and alternator's installed)?

    i read about upgrading all of those things on different sites that were suggested to people that were running like 1200+ watt systems...

    i also read about swappin out the battery and getting a "deep cycle" battery, is this what i should be looking for?

    another thing i saw was someone suggesting to do this if "their system power is 1000 RMS watts or more", how do i establish this?

    any help is appreciated, any questions answered is also appreciated.

    Thanks in advance =D
    You can put an amp clamp on your power line and see how much it's pulling, but this will only give you an average power draw. Before installing capacitors you should upgrade the "big 3" wire pack. Battery negative to Chassis, Chassis to engine, and Positive battery to alternator. If upgrading these does not help enough, then a capacitor is a decent band-aid until you find the real problem.
    "stop with the REINSTALLS, what do you think we got some lame-o installer!!!" - mitchjs
    RevFE
    My Shop

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by iNcArCeRaTiOn View Post
      my questions are;
      - what should i be looking into upgrade? my alternator?
      - my battery?
      - the power wire to my alternator from my battery?
      - the ground to the chassis from the battery?
      - get maybe another farad or 2 capacitor (which i read should be done after a good battery and alternator's installed)?

      i also read about swappin out the battery and getting a "deep cycle" battery, is this what i should be looking for?
      -
      - yes
      - yes
      - yes
      - NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

      yes


      I had the same problem, especially with using rear defrost. I just upgraded my battery to an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle battery, my ground frmo it to the frame and am working on the alternator. Don't even use a capacitor, it's a Band-Aid that doesn't let you diagnose problems in your system because you don't see them.
      Ampie Case
      2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Samsung 5400RPM
      256 MB DDR2 PC5400
      Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
      Intel D945GCLF Motherboard
      M2-ATX-HV

      2005 Honda Civic

      Comment


      • #4
        alright, cool. thanks for the suggestions and help guys.
        2006 Mazda 3 S Series
        2.3L 4cyl Engine

        Current Build
        - Commell LV-677 Motherboard
        - Intel Core 2 Duo T5500 CPU
        - Dual 512MB PC5300\667MHz RAM
        - Seagate 80GB SATA HDD
        - M2-ATX 160W PSU
        - Dynamix 8" LCD Touchscreen
        - VoomPC I Mini-ITX Case (Black)

        Comment

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