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  • G35 carputer climate controls

    Hi guys. New to the forums here and looking for a little guidance.
    I'm planning to convert the interior of my 2004 G35 over to that of the G35 Concept. Problem is, the concept doesn't have the large rectangular display for the climate controls that my car does.

    Click image for larger version

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    So as I see it, I have two options:

    1) Find a way to create a new LCD for my climate controls that would be more square and sit in the middle of the console like the concept shows above- likely impractical

    2) Incorporate HVAC control into a carputer - which research around the forums tells me is quite do-able.

    From what I can find, it seems like usng the Fusion Brain would be the easiest, especially since it has software to interface with carputer front-ends like centrafuse. What I'm not sure of is exactly how it works, and what I would need to connect together.

    I have an aftermarket climate control unit as part of a double din conversion kit and everything seems to be controlled on a single circuit board by push buttons. No dials, sliders
    or knobs. So I assume everything is electronic, which would make my task easy, correct?

    Click image for larger version

Name:	g35 climate control.jpg
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    Using the Fusion Brain, would I just solder wires from outputs of the fusion to corresponding button locations on the PCB of the climate control? Or do I bypass the climate control PCB and link the outputs of the Fusion Brain directly to the wire harness for the HVAC? (This would involve me having to figure out what each wire of the harness is for, and so far I've been unable to locate a diagram with such information).

    If any of you guys have any experience with the G35 or could offer some guidance it would be greatly appreciated

  • #2
    If everything is electronic then it is easy. If you have an aftermarket panel that has everything mapped with buttons and all, then it is extremely easy.

    Just wire the outputs to control those buttons. The wiring would depend on the circuitry of the button panel. If they are switched ground then really you just run a single wire from the output of the FB to the switch of the button. But we can cross that bridge when we get there.

    To answer your question of if it is possible, yes.
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks 2K1Toaster!

      Like i mentioned above, as far as I can tell, everything is electronic, but I haven't been able to find a clear cut answer, and don't really have the abilty to tear my car apart and find out at the moment. The aftermarket panel is all electronic, and just as you suggested, I should be able to hook up to that.

      Now I do know that with the afermarket HVAC board, there's contacts on the PCB and then contacts on the back of the buttons such that when you push down, the contacts meet. So how would I wire this with the fusion brain? The OEM HVAC board has tiny square click buttons soldered right to it with the plastic button covers (with the corresponding icons and such) mounted over top. Which would be easiest to work with in terms of soldering? That's where I'm stuck. I just want to know (in as detailed a way as possible) where wires need to be soldered and what needs to be connected to what.

      I just want to be sure I have everything more or less worked out in theory before I tear my car apart...which is a major PITA with G35's because you literally have to take everything apart to get at the HVAC and Radio.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by doctr_nick View Post
        Thanks 2K1Toaster!

        Like i mentioned above, as far as I can tell, everything is electronic, but I haven't been able to find a clear cut answer, and don't really have the abilty to tear my car apart and find out at the moment. The aftermarket panel is all electronic, and just as you suggested, I should be able to hook up to that.
        You can interface to anything, it just depends how much work you want to do.

        Now I do know that with the afermarket HVAC board, there's contacts on the PCB and then contacts on the back of the buttons such that when you push down, the contacts meet. So how would I wire this with the fusion brain? The OEM HVAC board has tiny square click buttons soldered right to it with the plastic button covers (with the corresponding icons and such) mounted over top. Which would be easiest to work with in terms of soldering? That's where I'm stuck. I just want to know (in as detailed a way as possible) where wires need to be soldered and what needs to be connected to what.
        The click buttons (if they are what I think they are) would be easiest. You mean like a little button that when you press it, it actually clicks and comes back right? On the PCB itself with no covers or anything, little buttons... If so, then that is super easy.

        I just want to be sure I have everything more or less worked out in theory before I tear my car apart...which is a major PITA with G35's because you literally have to take everything apart to get at the HVAC and Radio.
        That's the way it is in almost all cars now. If it is easy to remove then it is easy to steal.
        Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
        1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
        30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
        15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
        Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post

          The click buttons (if they are what I think they are) would be easiest. You mean like a little button that when you press it, it actually clicks and comes back right? On the PCB itself with no covers or anything, little buttons... If so, then that is super easy.

          Yeah, they are tiny square silver things with round green buttons in the centre as pictured below.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	G35 circuit board.jpg
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          So how would I wire the fusion brain to this? I assume the switch things would need to be de-soldered, but what are the details of wiring from the fusion brain to this afterwards? I've read a little about relays, and saw the relay pack for the fusion brain on this site, do I need those? Or can I just wire point to point?

          Comment


          • #6
            The buttons can stay on there either way, no need to desolder them (assuming they are NO and not NC which I would guess that they are NO).

            If the buttons switch ground, then you can wire directly. If they switch high side, then you will need a switch of sometype whether it be a relay or a transistor or a solid state relay. Relays are obviously the easiest and what we sell, but they click. Depending on how muffled the cabin is, you might hear them, you might not.
            Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
            1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
            30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
            15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
            Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
              The buttons can stay on there either way, no need to desolder them (assuming they are NO and not NC which I would guess that they are NO).

              If the buttons switch ground, then you can wire directly. If they switch high side, then you will need a switch of sometype whether it be a relay or a transistor or a solid state relay. Relays are obviously the easiest and what we sell, but they click. Depending on how muffled the cabin is, you might hear them, you might not.
              You need to educate me a little. What exactly is an NO and NC? And in terms of wiring, it looks like the switches bridge part of the PCB, so do I need to solder 2 wires (one for either side of the button on the pcb) and then connect both of these to the fusion brain? Sorry for being such a newb, but I really don't have a lot of experience with electronics. I've gone so far as building my own computers and soldering/replacing broken components, but that's about it. Thanks for all your help so far!

              Comment


              • #8
                NO and NC are "Normally open" and "Normally Closed" respectivly. a NO contact will spend all its time as an incomplete circut, waiting for the button to be pressed or relay to be energized, at which point the contacts will close, allowing electricity to flow across the contacts enabling whatever it is its supposed to do. normally closed is exactly opposite, it will open the circut when activated.

                im not entirely sure how you would check to see if the contact is waiting for a power or ground, but i would gather you need a multimeter.

                as for the fusion brain wiring, you'd only need one wire from the brain to the button contact to pulse either a power or ground signal (its acting like being pressed) from the brain to the contact that leads back to the circut board.

                i dont think im too far off base here, im sure 2k1toaster knows how to explain this better/correctly.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks gaoes

                  As an example, pushing the defrost button will turn on the defrost function and a corresponding LED on the circuit board. The LED stays on, as does the defrost function until hitting the button again. This tells me that the button must complete some sort of circuit that feeds back to a chip/switch that gives a secondary signal to keep the LED on until the button is hit again, and to keep the defrost function on.
                  So in theory it would sound more like an NO to me, but I dunno.
                  I'm still a little unclear with how I would go about soldering a single wire to the PCB without A) removing the switch and B) inducing some sort of short circuit given the fact that the button appears to be mounted to the PCB with four separate contact points. Any clarification would be great. Would it be as drawn here:

                  Click image for larger version

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ID:	2279722

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                    NO and NC are "Normally open" and "Normally Closed" respectivly. a NO contact will spend all its time as an incomplete circut, waiting for the button to be pressed or relay to be energized, at which point the contacts will close, allowing electricity to flow across the contacts enabling whatever it is its supposed to do. normally closed is exactly opposite, it will open the circut when activated.
                    Correct.

                    Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                    im not entirely sure how you would check to see if the contact is waiting for a power or ground, but i would gather you need a multimeter.
                    The safest way is to trace it. Measure resistance between each of the pins on the button and a known ground point as well as between the pins and a known vcc point. It is more than likely either:

                    VCC ---/\/\/\/---|TO MCU|--- SWITCH ----|GND
                    or
                    VCC --- SWITCH ---|TO MCU|---/\/\/\/----|GND

                    not to say it couldnt be something different, but those two above would be 95% of the designs out there.

                    So depending on how much resistance between a contact and ground and a contact and power, you can tell if it is directly connected (<< 1ohm) or going through a current limit resistor (probably > 100ohms, closer to 1kohm, or 10kohm).

                    Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                    as for the fusion brain wiring, you'd only need one wire from the brain to the button contact to pulse either a power or ground signal (its acting like being pressed) from the brain to the contact that leads back to the circut board.

                    i dont think im too far off base here, im sure 2k1toaster knows how to explain this better/correctly.
                    If it is the first setup with the switched ground, then 1 wire will work, and you would break it at MCU->SWITCH and make it MCU->FB Ground of output.

                    The Fusion Brain is like the first option. There is always power to the + pin. The - pin is connected and disconnected as told by the computer. So when you say "turn on" it is grounding a pin, which would ground the output, set the signal low, and trigger an event.

                    Originally posted by doctr_nick View Post
                    Thanks gaoes

                    As an example, pushing the defrost button will turn on the defrost function and a corresponding LED on the circuit board. The LED stays on, as does the defrost function until hitting the button again. This tells me that the button must complete some sort of circuit that feeds back to a chip/switch that gives a secondary signal to keep the LED on until the button is hit again, and to keep the defrost function on.
                    So in theory it would sound more like an NO to me, but I dunno.
                    I'm still a little unclear with how I would go about soldering a single wire to the PCB without A) removing the switch and B) inducing some sort of short circuit given the fact that the button appears to be mounted to the PCB with four separate contact points. Any clarification would be great. Would it be as drawn here:

                    [ATTACH]60271[/ATTACH]
                    NO and NC cannot really be determined by function. For instance the code could be written for posedge signals or negedge signals. Just changing which edge triggers the code, inverts the logic.
                    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      it looks like from the picture there are two leads going into each button and two going out. im not well versed in PCB design, but i'd wager one is for the button and one is for the LED. if you can power the LED on somehow, and take a multimeter to it to figure out which pair are for the light. then the other pair for the switch. im not sure how you'd figure out what kind of signal to send to which of the two contacts.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                        NO and NC are "Normally open" and "Normally Closed" respectivly. a NO contact will spend all its time as an incomplete circut, waiting for the button to be pressed or relay to be energized, at which point the contacts will close, allowing electricity to flow across the contacts enabling whatever it is its supposed to do. normally closed is exactly opposite, it will open the circut when activated.
                        Correct.

                        Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                        im not entirely sure how you would check to see if the contact is waiting for a power or ground, but i would gather you need a multimeter.
                        The safest way is to trace it. Measure resistance between each of the pins on the button and a known ground point as well as between the pins and a known vcc point. It is more than likely either:

                        VCC ---/\/\/\/---|TO MCU|--- SWITCH ----|GND
                        or
                        VCC --- SWITCH ---|TO MCU|---/\/\/\/----|GND

                        not to say it couldnt be something different, but those two above would be 95% of the designs out there.

                        So depending on how much resistance between a contact and ground and a contact and power, you can tell if it is directly connected (<< 1ohm) or going through a current limit resistor (probably > 100ohms, closer to 1kohm, or 10kohm).

                        Originally posted by gaoes View Post
                        as for the fusion brain wiring, you'd only need one wire from the brain to the button contact to pulse either a power or ground signal (its acting like being pressed) from the brain to the contact that leads back to the circut board.

                        i dont think im too far off base here, im sure 2k1toaster knows how to explain this better/correctly.
                        If it is the first setup with the switched ground, then 1 wire will work, and you would break it at MCU->SWITCH and make it MCU->FB Ground of output.

                        The Fusion Brain is like the first option. There is always power to the + pin. The - pin is connected and disconnected as told by the computer. So when you say "turn on" it is grounding a pin, which would ground the output, set the signal low, and trigger an event.

                        Originally posted by doctr_nick View Post
                        Thanks gaoes

                        As an example, pushing the defrost button will turn on the defrost function and a corresponding LED on the circuit board. The LED stays on, as does the defrost function until hitting the button again. This tells me that the button must complete some sort of circuit that feeds back to a chip/switch that gives a secondary signal to keep the LED on until the button is hit again, and to keep the defrost function on.
                        So in theory it would sound more like an NO to me, but I dunno.
                        I'm still a little unclear with how I would go about soldering a single wire to the PCB without A) removing the switch and B) inducing some sort of short circuit given the fact that the button appears to be mounted to the PCB with four separate contact points. Any clarification would be great. Would it be as drawn here:

                        [ATTACH]60271[/ATTACH]
                        NO and NC cannot really be determined by function. For instance the code could be written for posedge signals or negedge signals. Just changing which edge triggers the code, inverts the logic.
                        Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                        1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                        30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                        15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                        Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks so much for all the help guys! I really appreciate your patience dealing with my newb questions.

                          So as it stands, if I understand correctly, 2 of the 4 contact points are likely for a connection with the LED while the other links to the MCU. So I need to first identify which 2 belong to the MCU circuit. And by the looks of it, most of that has to be done with a multimeter (which I currently do not have). Now I have the OEM board (that's similar to the pics I've posted) out of the car as I'm currently using an aftermarket controller, so the OEM one is in prime position for experimentation.

                          I'll have to get my hands on my dad's multimeter... only issue is that I'm currently in medical school (which makes my schedule busy as hell), and home is 3.5+ hours away. I was really hoping someone on the forums here would have already tried something like this with a G35 to make things much simpler, but I gues not. Oh well, thanks for the guidance, and I'll post back once I make some headway.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            you can get a multimeter at rat shack for $10. Invaluable especially if you are putting in a CarPC...

                            The 4 contacts on the buttons are joined. There are really only 2 contacts. 4 leads so it is stable when you push it, and it allows for traces to be routed inbetween like a bridge which I see at least one of those buttons has.
                            Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                            1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                            30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                            15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                            Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
                              you can get a multimeter at rat shack for $10. Invaluable especially if you are putting in a CarPC...
                              if your search for harbor freight, you can get them as cheap as $3.

                              Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
                              The 4 contacts on the buttons are joined. There are really only 2 contacts. 4 leads so it is stable when you push it, and it allows for traces to be routed inbetween like a bridge which I see at least one of those buttons has.
                              exactly-- on switches that small, usually one side is one contact, but with 2 metal terminals, and on the other side, it is the other contact..

                              usually switches like that are NO, but manufacturers do all sorts of weird things--NC switches could have been 0.001 cent cheaper that week of production...
                              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                              next project? subaru brz
                              carpc undecided

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