Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Power Supply Issues

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Power Supply Issues

    Okay.... new to here, but not really a "newbie". Job and hobby have led to build/rebuild of over 1000 computer systems in the last 10 years and simple curiosity and fun have led to the installation of your "typical" car audio stuff regularly... however, I have a HUGE issue that is holding up final installation of my first "car-pc".

    Have bench tested whole PC w/ desktop PS in my office workshop.... however, when I transition to the car w/ either one of my two BRAND NEW DC - DC auto PSs... niether of them work... at all... doign anything.

    First is a brand new, out of box M4-ATX which has given one green blinking light for a split second one time... now nothing.

    The other is a brand new, out of box GP83 which has given me nothing... EVER!

    So here's the deal... I'm not an electircal guy... I know everything I need to know about the needs of all the rails insde the system... but I am (for some unknown reason) completely dumbfounded as to why two brand new PS will not work at all...

    I need help ASAP guys, not for any real reason, but this has been a project over a year in the works (budget and time restraints), and at this point, with only ONE thing left to get done.... its completely a frustration issue.

  • #2
    I think some more details would help first. What wires of the PS did you hook up and to what wires on the vehicle? Also what vehicle is it?
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

    Comment


    • #3
      Since you said you tested with a desktop power supply, you can test your dc power supply's using the desktop one. You can jump (I think it's one of the green and black pins side by side) on the 20/24 pin cable from the desktop power supply. You can now turn your desktop supply on/off with the switch or plugging it in/out of the wall.

      Now, with the car supply's, hook the ground wire into a molex ground (black wire) and BOTH the remote/12v+ into the yellow (I think) of the same molex. You can now turn on the desktop supply and see if the dc supply works as intended.

      This a quick fix to test them out at least on your workbench, might narrow something down with wiring in your car or not. Hope it helps!

      Edit:
      First is a brand new, out of box M4-ATX which has given one green blinking light for a split second one time... now nothing.
      You can leave the remote out of the molex and see if the 12v+ will give you the blinking light on the M4, but it should continue blinking at short intervals.
      Last edited by detlion1643; 08-24-2011, 09:15 PM.
      Current Worklog: TBA - '05 Rav4 (Mobo Dead).
      www.rav4world.com - Forums for Rav4 owners
      www.flavorfeasts.com - Cooking website/forums
      -Basic forums live atm, come contribute!

      Comment


      • #4
        so you've built over 1k pc's but don't have a psu tester?

        also, have you checked that the power wires in the car are outputting the correct voltages?
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          Power Supply Issue

          I've never had a need for a PSU tester at the house... most PSU I have used for builds are new, and if I ever have a PSU that on a rebuild that doesn't work, I just replace it. A majority of the jobs have been at work, and I can't exactly just walk in and use the tester at work for my personal systems. I'm not running a business out of the house.

          Valtage is correct, I have checked and rechecked all my lines, all the lines are fused properly, amp is wired up correctly, monitor is wired correctly, stereo is wired correctly... everything else works fine... but I am beginning to think that I actually had the unfortunate luck to recieve two brand new out of box dud PSUs.

          Comment


          • #6
            To me a tester is simply a DMM for voltage, and another for current - even if requiring a current shunt for over 10A.
            (I use a $10 50A shunt for measuring starter motor currents (so far) up to 400A; the mere 50A shunt handles that without problem for SHORT period testing. For loads I use headlights etc - just add more until the desired load (current) is reached.)

            Comment


            • #7
              What brand and model motherboard you using?
              F6 Tornado Project Log ; HP Blackbird Watercooled Server

              Beta Tester for Centrafuse and 3dConnexion (No business affiliation with either)

              Comment

              Working...
              X