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  • Amp Remote Wire

    Hey guys. I've been reading around (there should really be an audio forum) and I had a few questions about the Remote Wire (ACC) on my amp.

    First off, a little background info. I'm ditching the HU, and using my computer directly. Also, I have purchased a Monster wiring kit. You may say "Man that's expensive", it was only 5 bucks more than a generic one.

    I've read around and it said that I should connect my amp's remote start to my wiring harness that's on my HU.

    -I've also heard it's not good to use the one on your wiring harness, and I don't
    know which wire is my ACC wire.

    I'm basically asking where my ACC line is and where I should run it from. Sorry I'm so clueless about this stuff, and I appreciate any replies I get.

    And yes I have searched, it's very unorganized without an audio forum, and I see a lot of questions around, maybe this should be considered. Just my 2 cents.
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  • #2
    Not trying to attack you but here's basically what the ACC wire does.

    When the ACC wire is "hot", then the device is on. It's basically a switch that comes from your key, that tells your radio/amp/anything else that the engine is running.

    So, your amp has three power input's. Well, technically only two, but we won't go into that. Ground, Battery, Accessory. The ground is the return, and should be obvious. The Battery is hooked up to the battery. With a amp it is a good idea to actually run it to the battery. I also run the ground to the battery in the same fashion. Otherwise you can get Ground Loop's. The Accessory comes from your radio. Your radio turns this on when it's on. NOT related to the accessory that your key uses.

    So, the amp should have the acc wire wired to the "amp" wire on your radio. If the radio doesn't have a amp wire, it should be on the power antena. Gerenally it's a blue wire. The amp wire is a blue wire with a stripe of white, generally.

    Since you are hooking up your computer directly to the car, without a radio, you have two options.

    1) Hook up the amp to the accessory wire coming from your wiring harness for your stereo. The problem with this is even when you have the Computer off, the amp will be on. And if the key is in the acc position, the amp will be on. This could run the battery dead.

    2) Make your own relay that turns on when the computer is on. And hook your amp to this wire.

    If I was ditching the radio, i'd use the relay method, but I can't live without my Sirius.

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    • #3
      This has been discussed before...using relay or whatever to allow the computer to startup and shutdown the amps.
      current projects

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      • #4
        get a shutdown controller or just use a relay from a 12v wire on your ps to trigger the amps
        99.9% complete.

        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/212327

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        • #5
          Thanks.

          Thanks for the replies. What I will probably end up doing, since I am buying an ITPS, is use the ITPS to trigger my computer and amp.

          Knightofoldcode, I pretty much knew the first half of your post, but your details on the accesory line were very helpful.
          My Carputer! (More Car Pics at the end)
          2 Kicker Comp 10"
          Epia M-9000, 256 MB DDR, 120 Gig HD
          Lilliput 7" VGA Touchscreen
          Check it out?!

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          • #6
            I'm just learning about car audio (for what it's worth, I second the motion for an audio forum on this board), but what voltage is the amp looking for?

            I'm assuming it's +5v, as with most electronics? In that case, you can just cut open a USB cable and use the +5v line on there. No need for a relay, and the amp would only be powered as long as the motherboard is getting power.. which it wouldn't be, when your power supply is shut off.

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            • #7
              I've actually been reading around a bit more, and it appears to want 12v for ACC. In which case, if my cigarette outlets turn on with my car, I will simply use that. This thread.

              http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...light=ITPS+ACC*
              My Carputer! (More Car Pics at the end)
              2 Kicker Comp 10"
              Epia M-9000, 256 MB DDR, 120 Gig HD
              Lilliput 7" VGA Touchscreen
              Check it out?!

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              • #8
                What type of current does the amp remote wire need ?

                Just thinking here of what current the amp remote wire needs ?
                since the amp is powered by the battery directly and only switches on when current is present in the remote wire, what type of current is it looking for ?

                Can we not just use a spare pc hard drive power plug and splice the +12v line into the amp remote, then whenever the pc is on, the amp will be ? or will the draw from the amp destroy the pc power supply ? (regardless of whether its an opus, PWrange or inverter fed ) my amps blow a 50 AMP fuse if I crank the gain up all the way, using a headunit.
                Nano ITX / 512 MB / 60 GB / Panasonic slot load / M1-ATX / Bu303 / Sound blaster 24 / PPi amps / rockford sub

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                • #9
                  I think you are right, BUT, since I'm running the ignition wire for my ITPS, why not just do that?

                  And also, the reason i'm wondering is because I plan to have my amp installed before my computer. So hooking it up to a PSU is not good because I won't have one in there.

                  Thanks everyone for their replies.
                  My Carputer! (More Car Pics at the end)
                  2 Kicker Comp 10"
                  Epia M-9000, 256 MB DDR, 120 Gig HD
                  Lilliput 7" VGA Touchscreen
                  Check it out?!

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                  • #10
                    Another idea?

                    Hi,

                    Could you run a 12v supply directly from inside the PC, from one of the HDD or CDRom power connectors. This would then power the Acc line into the amp only when the PC is on. I'm sure the current draw for this is within the capabilities of the computer's PSU.

                    Just a thought, shoot me down if necessary...

                    Web

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by webnosis
                      Hi,

                      Could you run a 12v supply directly from inside the PC, from one of the HDD or CDRom power connectors. This would then power the Acc line into the amp only when the PC is on. I'm sure the current draw for this is within the capabilities of the computer's PSU.

                      Just a thought, shoot me down if necessary...

                      Web
                      Bang, you're dead!
                      Did you read the above two posts??
                      Laidback


                      The ultimate CarPC - Wow!

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                      • #12
                        The accessory line is looking for 12volts. I also don't typically recommend grounding your amp at the battery unless you have a separate battery dedicated to the audio/carputer. Ground wires should be as short as possible and grounded directly to the frame of the car. Look for seatbelt bolts or something and scrub them with a wire brush. Also the thicker the better when it comes to grounding wire. Most ground wires I install are 2ft or less and are at least 8ga, if not 4. Not trying to flame knightofoldcode....
                        2008 Ford Expedition EL Ltd

                        Carputer yanked from the Jeep and Denali and waiting to be installed in the Ford.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TaylorMade
                          The accessory line is looking for 12volts. I also don't typically recommend grounding your amp at the battery unless you have a separate battery dedicated to the audio/carputer. Ground wires should be as short as possible and grounded directly to the frame of the car. Look for seatbelt bolts or something and scrub them with a wire brush. Also the thicker the better when it comes to grounding wire. Most ground wires I install are 2ft or less and are at least 8ga, if not 4. Not trying to flame knightofoldcode....
                          I agree with this philosophy as well. Basically a groundloop is created when there is a shorter path to ground than the actual ground wire. This means that maybe it is easier to ground through your RCA wires into your carpter and to ground through the power supply and then you end up with noise. Keep the grounds short.
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sfay93
                            I agree with this philosophy as well. Basically a groundloop is created when there is a shorter path to ground than the actual ground wire. This means that maybe it is easier to ground through your RCA wires into your carpter and to ground through the power supply and then you end up with noise. Keep the grounds short.
                            Unless the power supply is grounded to the battery as well. If you ground everything to the battery and not the car frame, it'd be a ****load more wires, but wouldn't it also eliminate the possibility of a ground loop? Since "all roads lead to Rome"... but in this case the (-) terminal?

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                            • #15
                              Here is a good post on grounding for car audio:
                              http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=5;t=008251

                              [i]"The goal here is to ground everything back to the chassis using ground points of equal (or to within .25 ohms) resistance."[/]

                              Ground all your components to the same point, usually a nearby location on the car chasis. If the chasis isn't providing a good ground, then try grounding directly to the negative terminal on the battery.

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