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  • bu-353 driver loading

    i had centrafuse booting up fully with audio playing (from hibernation) in about 7 or 8 seconds. until now. I just installed my gps, which is running perfectly so far without the aid of xport or anything else. I'm running it with all the default settings, and it seems to allocate com5 every time.
    My problem is that the time to boot takes about the same, and the music will start to play. however, the screen freezes and the touchscreen fails to operate for about a minute or more until you hear the "usb device chime", at which point the screen un-freezes and the system is fully functional again.
    before the gps, during bootup from hibernation, you would hear the music begin, and then seconds later the usb chime would sound and the touchscreen would then function.
    is there a way to set the touchscreen driver to load first, and then the gps. I rarely use the gps, and obviously touchscreen functionality is more of a priority.

  • #2
    nobody has experienced this, or can think of a solution to load the drivers at diff. times?

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    • #3
      I'm not 100% sure about this, but heres a shot...

      Windows must be picking some order to scan through all the USB ports for devices.
      So if it is scanning ports in a certain order, maybe swapping the usb ports of the screen and gps will work.
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      • #4
        That is strange. The chime means new hardware was just connected that wasn't connected before, so there could be an issue with the USB hub or controller. Whatever those devices are connected to.

        What's you're setup like? XP or 7? SSD? Cold boot, hybrid sleep? It could also happen if you're cold booting and not shutting down completely which would require Windows to install the drivers every time, or hibernating without having rebooted since the drivers were isntalled.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by PaulF View Post
          I'm not 100% sure about this, but heres a shot...

          Windows must be picking some order to scan through all the USB ports for devices.
          So if it is scanning ports in a certain order, maybe swapping the usb ports of the screen and gps will work.

          Good thought, and easily done as well. I'll try it out tommorrow. thanks

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Curiosity View Post
            That is strange. The chime means new hardware was just connected that wasn't connected before, so there could be an issue with the USB hub or controller. Whatever those devices are connected to.

            What's you're setup like? XP or 7? SSD? Cold boot, hybrid sleep? It could also happen if you're cold booting and not shutting down completely which would require Windows to install the drivers every time, or hibernating without having rebooted since the drivers were isntalled.
            I'm running tinyXP on a sata 2.5". This is happening after coming out of hibernation. I did just install the gps, but i always try too do a cold boot every once in a while so i'm not always hibernating. I give it another shot and see if it happens the first time after a cold boot and hibernate.

            Also, as far as i remember, the chimes have always happened for the lilliput touchscreen. after coming out of hibernation, i would always get the "high, low" and then the "low, high" before the touchscreen would work, but it used to only be a matter of seconds before the gps was installed.

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            • #7
              Good. XP doesn't really save all parts of the registry until it shuts down.

              OK, both chimes. That reminds me of the time I plugged a USB plasma ball into a non-powered hub. The initial surge from it starting up dropped the voltage so low that the hub went offline and back on. That can be seen with a volt meter, but usually we don't look for things like that.

              So possibly adding more devices increases the current requirements above the 5V rail maximum output. Find something else to unplug and try it.

              Another possibility if that works is too much on 1 non-powered hub. Many of us experience that one. A hub can only supply 400mA total to all ports (100mA to itself).

              Then there's the USB conflicts. Usually a touchscreen and GPS together on a hub causes all kinds of problems like working every other time.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Curiosity View Post
                Good. XP doesn't really save all parts of the registry until it shuts down.

                OK, both chimes. That reminds me of the time I plugged a USB plasma ball into a non-powered hub. The initial surge from it starting up dropped the voltage so low that the hub went offline and back on. That can be seen with a volt meter, but usually we don't look for things like that.

                So possibly adding more devices increases the current requirements above the 5V rail maximum output. Find something else to unplug and try it.

                Another possibility if that works is too much on 1 non-powered hub. Many of us experience that one. A hub can only supply 400mA total to all ports (100mA to itself).

                Then there's the USB conflicts. Usually a touchscreen and GPS together on a hub causes all kinds of problems like working every other time.

                I'm not actually running on a hub. My via c7 migrus motherboard has 8 usb ports. the header goes to the two front usb's and the 6rear... would the rear be a built in hub? because i have a bluetooth dongle, gps, touchscreen, and wifi all running off the back. I did pull the bluetooth with a small improvement. Also, every time i hit reverse and the monitor switches to the rearview camera I hear the "high, low" disconnection chime and when it goes back to "pc" i hear the "low, high" twice before the monitor and touchscreen come back on fully again. and when i hit the brakes it also wants to switch and i hear the chimes. I'm at a loss, at least you seem to have a grip on what's going on! thank god for these forums!

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                • #9
                  Any internal USB ports should be on the root hub and should have 500mA per port. Sometimes with that many ports, the front and back share the same port and can't be used at the same time, but you'd know because something wouldn't be working.

                  Working better without the bluetooth still sounds like a power issues. WiFi probably uses more. Remove that and try. If it's working great, then I'd say power. Most likey you need a stronger power supply. You can also try different ports, but not sure if it will help.

                  The chimes from the monitor connecting/disconnecting are normal. It's just like unplugging your monitor. The brake switching the monitor sounds annoying though. I'd check on that. How is that wired? Something in the car to an input on the monitor? Are you sure it's not shorting anything?

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                  • #10
                    force it on port 1 if you dont use it for anything else so it doesn't have to scan so much. If you can force the touchscreen drivers onto another port, like 2 or 5 or something, that would be great too. Keep them always plugged into the same physical USB ports so that they don't get reassigned something else.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by p057 View Post
                      force it on port 1 if you dont use it for anything else so it doesn't have to scan so much. If you can force the touchscreen drivers onto another port, like 2 or 5 or something, that would be great too. Keep them always plugged into the same physical USB ports so that they don't get reassigned something else.
                      this is exactly what i'd like to do. i just don't know how to go about it in xp. any help would be appreciated.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Curiosity View Post
                        The chimes from the monitor connecting/disconnecting are normal. It's just like unplugging your monitor. The brake switching the monitor sounds annoying though. I'd check on that. How is that wired? Something in the car to an input on the monitor? Are you sure it's not shorting anything?
                        they are annoying. I've got a liiliput ebay701 w/ autoswitch. the switch is activated by a wire the needs to be supplied 12v. My camera also requires 12v. my truck has a harness designed for hooking up to trailer wiring, which has a reverse light wire that supplies 12v only when the truck is in reverse. I hooked that wire up to the camera's positive and then (in parrallel) spliced that wire to run to the cab of the truck where it connects to the 12v input for the monitor switch. the camera is grounded t the frame at the rear bumper. it seemed to work perfect until i realized that the monitor momentarily flickers about 1/10th of the time that i depress the brake pedal. annoying is right. with a multimeter on the 12v wire going to the input of the monitor, it occasionally reads a negative voltage when i press the brakes. I don't know how to fix this. could a diode wired in line stop this negative signal?

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                        • #13
                          Yes, a diode would help with the negative voltage. Just put it inline with the silver band toward the monitor. That would be the easiest to try.

                          It will also drop the voltage a bit, so if the monitor is picking up a low signal (0.5V or less) frome the brakes that can filter it out. More in series can drop it more.

                          The flickering is probably due to induction from the brake/reverse wires close together on a long run giving it similar characteristics of a transformer, just all pulled out straight. Transformers need AC to to work, but with DC it's 1 cycle so 1 little pulse.

                          If a diode doesn't do it, then a relay will but then you get click noises when reversing. An optocouplers gets a little more complicated but would be nicer.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Curiosity View Post
                            If a diode doesn't do it, then a relay will but then you get click noises when reversing. An optocouplers gets a little more complicated but would be nicer.
                            ok, i'm going to install the diode tonight and watch the results for a while. but if i was to install a relay, could i put it in the cab so that the same wire that feeds constant 12v for the computer psu also supplies the relay, and the reverse wire that would goto the monitor is the switch for the relay? or would the relay's switch then be subject to the same affect as the monitor and give the same results?... also, i've never even seen the word "optocoupler" before! could you elaborate on that for me? btw.. thanks alot for the insight!

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                            • #15
                              With the relay you would connect the coil to the reverse lights wire and ground - That would switch the relay on when you switch to reverse, but there won't be enough power to pull it down from just the brakes. The switch side (common) can be sourced from the monitor or PC power, and N.O. connects to the monitor input.

                              An optocoupler is a small 4 or 6 pin DIL chip. It essentially has an LED in it that when emitting turns on a phototransistor. The LED side needs to be ~2.2v so a resistor is needed. 1.2K ohm would be fine to drop 16v to 2.2v. The other side would just be any 12v and the monitor input like the relay. It may be the same idea as the monitor has internally though, so the relay would be a better choice since it takes more current to turn it on.

                              Hmm, a better idea would be a resistor, say 100 ohms, and an electrolitic capacitor after it between the wire and ground. That could suck up the short pulse before it gets to the monitor. Not sure what size though.

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