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  • Control Power Windows with USB

    Does anyone know of any interface that could be used to control your car's power windows programmatically through Windows - ideally via a USB interface?

  • #2
    See sig
    Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
    1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
    30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
    15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
    Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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    • #3
      SWEET. I never would have found that on my own...

      Comment


      • #4
        No problem, we have a subforum too: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fusion-brain/
        Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
        1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
        30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
        15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
        Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
          No problem, we have a subforum too: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fusion-brain/
          No Analog outs? I could easily do a how to on controlling Climate controls the way i did with your board if it had analog outs. Read my thread on how i did it. Under Nissan Titan USB Climate controls.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Sethman408 View Post
            No Analog outs? I could easily do a how to on controlling Climate controls the way i did with your board if it had analog outs. Read my thread on how i did it. Under Nissan Titan USB Climate controls.
            Just use the digital outputs and put a dac on it. We are laying out one that we will sell that will do just this. User h3rk has done this on his own already, it is not hard.
            Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
            1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
            30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
            15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
            Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

            Comment


            • #7
              I even used them for essentially the exact same application. As I said in Sethman408's thread, I did it pretty much exactly the same way. There's not much choice once you crack open the control head, with how to make the connections. Tracing out the circuits took me a little while. I was really trying hard to find a way where I wouldn't need to make PCB connections at first, Before that I spent a lot of time determining what it would take to replace the control head entirely.

              More of the difficulty from there, is building the controlling functions.

              The DAC part wasn't very hard. I used a TI DAC, a Microchip 5V R-R opamp, 2 resistors and from 2-8 digital outputs on the brain (# of ouputs is configurable, but I'm using 6 ouputs on Fan and Temp, and 5 bits for Mode).

              I'm sure the ones that will eventually sell from Fusion Control Centre will be better and smaller, I might even snag a few when they come out being I was probably sqeaked about it more than anyone. That, and my interface board is like 5"x8".
              It's been a while...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by h3rk View Post
                I even used them for essentially the exact same application. As I said in Sethman408's thread, I did it pretty much exactly the same way. There's not much choice once you crack open the control head, with how to make the connections. Tracing out the circuits took me a little while. I was really trying hard to find a way where I wouldn't need to make PCB connections at first, Before that I spent a lot of time determining what it would take to replace the control head entirely.

                More of the difficulty from there, is building the controlling functions.

                The DAC part wasn't very hard. I used a TI DAC, a Microchip 5V R-R opamp, 2 resistors and from 2-8 digital outputs on the brain (# of ouputs is configurable, but I'm using 6 ouputs on Fan and Temp, and 5 bits for Mode).

                I'm sure the ones that will eventually sell from Fusion Control Centre will be better and smaller, I might even snag a few when they come out being I was probably sqeaked about it more than anyone. That, and my interface board is like 5"x8".
                <cringe> youre using the enemy!!!... which TI part did you Use? My ADC and DAC are SPI. It seems like youre using a DAC with parallel interface. How many bits are you getting on your dac. Im using a 16Bit dac and a 20bit ADC. would suck to have to control my DAC with 16 different digital pins. SPI or I2C is the way to go here. Eventually ill be adding an op-amp to a TC so i can read temps and go full auto.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Sethman408 View Post
                  <cringe> youre using the enemy!!!... which TI part did you Use? My ADC and DAC are SPI. It seems like youre using a DAC with several digital input pins that you set either high or low for the output. How many bits are you getting on your dac. Im using a 16Bit dac and a 20bit ADC. would suck to have to control my DAC with 16 different digital pins. SPI or I2C is the way to go here. Eventually ill be adding an op-amp to a TC so i can read temps and go full auto.

                  I went with this DAC on a recommendation and it's been very reliable and not too expensive. 0-4.2V solid.
                  http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc7528.pdf

                  I am eating up a lot of outputs, unfortunately.

                  I2C was announced for the next generation of Brains, but we'll see how that turns out.

                  When I laid out the most demanding dials (most detents - Temp and Fan), on paper with each voltage listed, and ran it in a spreadsheet to determine the most efficient and effective resolution, I got 6 bits every time. So that's what I used, and 5 for Mode... 17 total.

                  I also had to use pull-ups between the Brain's outputs, and the DAC's inputs, but I may have not had to. It was an afterthought (less of an afterthought, I just forgot).
                  It's been a while...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by h3rk View Post
                    I went with this DAC on a recommendation and it's been very reliable and not too expensive. 0-4.2V solid.
                    http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc7528.pdf

                    I am eating up a lot of outputs, unfortunately.

                    I2C was announced for the next generation of Brains, but we'll see how that turns out.

                    When I laid out the most demanding dials (most detents - Temp and Fan), on paper with each voltage listed, and ran it in a spreadsheet to determine the most efficient and effective resolution, I got 6 bits every time. So that's what I used, and 5 for Mode... 17 total.

                    I also had to use pull-ups between the Brain's outputs, and the DAC's inputs, but I may have not had to. It was an afterthought (less of an afterthought, I just forgot).
                    I used what i did because I had ease of access to it. the issue i ran into is that my DAC starts up in an active LOW state till the PC sets it so my climate controls would run full blast on HOT till the PC booted up. The only way i was able to get around this was to float the ground of the DAC. Then i connected the Ground of the DAC to the ground of the truck with a simple N channel mosfet then turned it on in the startup of my software using one of the digital outs on my USB interface board.

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                    • #11
                      I used a good ol' mechanical 4PDT relay to disable the brain's outputs to the dials through the dacs, until the brain evaluates that it's ready to take control. Leaving full direct control from the dials. But that's probably the major difference in our setups, how I split that circuit it two pieces, used the relay, and retained the dash dials for use ( I had to pull 2 resistors in each leg on the control head and put equivalents on the interface to make that work). I know you needed the dash real estate. But we both used the turn on, "I'm ready" output idea to solve that delimma.
                      It's been a while...

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