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Overclocking in Overdrive

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  • Overclocking in Overdrive

    i find that in my carpc i seem to be torn on my goals and do a lot of back and forth between seeing how little power i can get my carpc to draw and still run effectively, and how high i can push my windows 7 assessment scores. and to this end i am constantly changing clockspeeds, multipliers, voltages, and ram timings in my mobo's bios. for my latest installation, it is difficult to access motherboard, so if save bad settings in bios while driving, my carpc is down until i can get home and to my tools. so what i have done is made a long pc fan extension cord(3pin) and tuck this away next to my drivers seat. this is a remote mount clear cmos jumper. so i can confidently overclock my carputer on the highway
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Thats the last thing I want to do in my vehicle, no offence but overclocking is so 90's man. This day and age there is no need to overclock unless maybe your encoding 4k blueray movies on the way to the store. Good Luck SNO


    • #3
      oh i don't need to overclock for blue ray movies. not even for the 16gb .mkv files. plays smooth as can be and can skip around without pause or delay on vlc. but sometimes when i try to turn the anti aliasing up to 8x on fallout new vegas playing at 1920x1080 with all settings maxed out, it start to get a touch jumpy. but just barely. which is why i think i can smooth it out by changing settings. i use amd fusion engine control and amd overdrive to change specs inside windows and once i know it is stable, then i will change in bios. also i need to be able to downclock my carpc as i am starting to never allow it to power down. and i need battery to last at least 24hrs. until i can get hardware in place for carpc to control ignition and starter. then it wont matter as if battery voltage hits 11.5, my car will start and run for a specified time. no more dead battery for me, even if i leave my headlights on.


      • #4
        Not sure why you are worried about such things unless you plan to put a large monitor in your vehicle and watch movies in it. Even 12-15 inch monitors won't be able to show much if any difference between a 1080p and a 720p especially in the sun.

        I have the same board as Sno and I am running a dual core i3 processor and it will let me close to max out the win 7 settings under win7 or win8. If I have multi tasking and need the extra threads I may decide to go to a i7 but really it is considerably fast for anything I would do in my vehicle. The Intel 4000 graphics are fast enough for anything short of real graphics intensive games. And I am not hardly watching videos or playing games while I drive...

        You can also get a carstart/alarm system that will look at the voltage of your battery and start the car every so often for you. If that doesn't work for you then you should get something like an arduino to control a remote car starter for you. You just have to make sure you never run your car while it is in a garage.


        • #5
          yes, i have a fusion brain v4.0 and an arduino nano board i soldered pins to, stuck on a breadboard, and have been playing with. i even found 5v relays for arduino. the core i3-3110 ivy bridge cpu i own is only worth a 6.9 score in windows7 assessment. the quad core athlon2 x4 615e cpu i am running in my car right now, at stock speeds is worth 7.1 @ 45w tdp, and even with 16gb 1600mhz ddr3 memory with cl9 timings, the intel 4000 graphics is only worth 6.4. my descrete radeon 6670 1gb gddr5 card is worth 7.1 my amd vision build will run circles around ANY solution running integrated graphics. one quick search on any search engine will reveal that there is no such thing as good integrated graphics, and of the 3 big names that make graphics solutions, intel is at the bottom of the list. with NVidia at the top as it should be since NVidia invented the gpu in 1999. NVidia also absorbed agea a few years back, so they also hold all the lisences and rights to the ppu. which is why NVidia is so much better at PhysX processing. but NVidia stopped making motherboards when intel pulled everybody's lisences to make chipsets for their cpu's at the launch of the core line. intel had to make that move, because their chipsets and mainly graphics solutions were just that desirable that they weren't selling them. only cpu's. I run an amd vision, as they are a good middle of the road manuf. and they make every component to build a pc. so i can run just 1 software to adjust settings on everything (amd vision control engine). ALSO, I THINK WE SHOULD ALL AGREE THAT 7" @ 720P IS A LITTLE SHORT OF A RETINA DISPLAY. and as such, the human eye can distinguish the difference between 720 lines vs. 1080 lines. any genius at any apple store will strongly agree with this. also, a side by side comparison of the last 2 gens of the ipad will also demonstrate this. i feel so strongly on these things because i have been building gaming rigs for profit and hosting lan parties out of my home for ~7 years, now. when i first started looking for the mini itx mobo i wanted to use, i was dumbfounded at the gross lack of offerings with a full sized pci-e x16 card slot. a lot of integrated solutions actually hurt the computers performance from my standpoint, because they use the pc's ram for their own and because it is an extra heat source soldered directly to the motherboard. they raise mobo temps. vs disabling onboard video, and using discrete graphics solution. or so has been my experience.

          and a remote start will not leave me the option to add interior temp monitoring and a/c control down the road. i live in south florida and have a black car. this is a very real goal to my build. i want the car to start at 105f and shut off at 80f. with also monitoring batt. voltage, this will achieve the beginnings of ai in my car. from there i can spend more time with win7 voice recognition software and google voice to further this integration along.

          i also have a wife and 3 small children. they love playing hot wheels and watching spongebob when we are on the road. that has been a part of my inspiration/goals for my build. for just me, i primarily am logged onto aemtuner while i am driving by myself. monitoring my o2feedback and knock retard.


          • #6
            here is my nano board and a 5v relay that can supposedly hold a 25amp ckt @ 24v.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by AutoWiz; 06-15-2013, 01:50 PM.


            • #7
              I have a i3-3225 and my numbers are a little better than yours other than the graphics.

              CPU = 7.2
              RAM = 7.5 (16 gig DDR3 1600)
              Both Graphics are 6.4
              HD is 7.8 (120gig SSD)

              I have the same motherboard Sno and a couple others have. It is a high durability board and supports a full PCIe slot. For playbacks of any video it should run fine. I used to play blue rays on my old machine that is far slower.

              You still haven't shown anything that should need any better than your integrated graphics. If you were playing a recent high demand game it would be one thing but realistically you shouldn't have an issue.

              About your graphics, I will state again, you will not notice the difference in your car between a 720p or 1080p display unless you get a bigger monitor. In order to display a 720P display you need to have a display that has 720 vertical lines. MOST of the 7" and 10" screens that are popular are 800x600 tops. This isn't even enough to display 720p let alone trying to play 1080p. Even if you get one of the newer screens you are looking at 1200x800 which is just barely 720P. You need a resolution of a minimum of 1440x1080 to watch 1080p at 4:3 ratio or 1920x1080 to view 1080p in wide screen. Good luck finding that on a screen much under 20 inches.

              When you look at a small high def screen you need to be less than 2 feet from the display to be able to tell a difference. The smaller the screen the closer you need to be. In your car you are likely to be over 3' from the display. So what I am trying to say here is you are likely way over building your system for results you will never notice while in your vehicle.

              As an example:
              (Per this link:
              Retina display on a 13 inch screen requires 2560x1600 resolution and needs to be viewed at less than 20 inches.

              Another thing worth mentioning is that in most if not all states it is HIGHLY illegal for you to have video in your vehicle that the driver can view while the vehicle is moving. Depending on the state you can get as little as a ticket up to getting your car impounded and the equipment confiscated. In some of the local cities around me they have had issues with this and they can impound your car and confiscate your equipment if they see it displaying a video and won't remove it gently. They may even drive it around and use it as a bait vehicle before they remove the equipment.

              I haven't looked lately but there have been alarm systems that monitor the temp in your car and your voltage and can start your car for you to maintain those items. You can also have them have the windows open and close if someone comes by or it rains. You can also have them start your car on a schedule as well. I believe some of the DEI alarms allow you to do all of these items. If they have been removed it is due to the fact starting a car automatically while in the garage can kill everyone in your house due to carbon monoxide poisoning.

              As far as car start units go you could get one and hook it to an arduino. The arduino then could trip a relay that starts the car start automatically. So then you have it run when you want under whatever requirements. You should be able to do this with a simple arduino and some simple circuits. The big thing about an arduino is it will not kill your battery. You could run an arduino in a situation like this for weeks without draining your battery much.

              I am looking at doing some AI stuff in my vehicle but unless you are a programmer it will be difficult to accomplish with anything currently available. In my case I will be using an ARM based board to do the AI. I plan to slow the processor down on the ARM board to bare minimum and use radar sensors to detect when someone comes by. when it detects someone comes by it can ramp up to full speed and accomplish what I want. I will likely be using camera and voice feeds on mine but I have to program everything. I will likely have a secondary battery in my truck but with no screen the ARM boards can run for a long time as well. When my truck is running the AI will come from my PC but as I said, when the truck is off I will be using the ARM processor.

              Another issue you will have to be aware of with a video card installed is that your computer will be pulling a lot of power from your vehicle. Even if you are down near 25 watts it will be similar to you leaving your dome light on. Consider that your headlights are generally 55watts and you will kill your battery in a very short period of time if you leave them on. Of course if we consider that your vehicle has 2 headlights and then the much smaller marker lights you likely have somewhere between 150-200watts of energy being used when the lights are left on. Most vehicles will have a very dead battery if the lights are left on for over about 6 hours...

              Most of the ARM boards can be put into a low power mode which should be pulling well less than 1 watt. And I thought arduinos use less than 1 watt at most times depending on what it will be driving.

              What I am getting at is do you really want your vehicle having to start 2-3 times a day for 10minutes a day just to charge your battery? If even 10 minutes will charge it well enough. I would rather have it do the same thing and be able to run for days without charging if not weeks. You will burn through starters quickly.


              • #8
                man, ya gotta trust me when I say I know what i'm doing. lol.
                Attached Files


                • #9
                  You may know cars but it still doesn't change what I said about the car computer...

                  Unless you found some hardware no one else here has found (If so please share...) you won't be able to actually display 1080p on a smaller monitor period. If there are only 800x600 pixels on the screen or 1200x800 you still don't have enough pixels on the screen to display anything more than 720p. Even if the screen allows you to display a larger resolution the screen its self is still only what it is. I have a 7" screen that is 800x600 and I have gone all the way to 1600x1200 with it and it looks very weird because no matter what the computer is sending to it, it is still limited to display 800x600 max.

                  Also running a PC even at minimum power with the vehicle off is going to drag your battery down quickly requiring charging often. Unless of course you plan to have a bank of batteries or have a charger hooked to it full time.

                  You could use solar chargers to try keeping your battery charged or some other method but you realistically will not be happy trying to keep a PC with a graphics card running off your car with it not running. My Asus ROG motherboard can be over/under clocked via a blue tooth module so theoretically I could use an arduino to control it if I knew the commands but that is a full ATX sized motherboard. I don't know of any motherboards that allow the same functionality in a small board. You need a power supply bigger than 250 to run your PC reliably. You are not using a mobile processor which would allow you to reduce its power usage drastically.

                  If you actually took a laptop apart and mounted it in your vehicle you might stand a better chance of getting it to run long term in your vehicle with it off unless you can get a mobile processor in a mother board that will support reducing the speed. And a mobile processor setup will likely not support a full blown graphics card and you will need a mobile version as well. My Asus laptop is a gaming laptop and with its battery will last only 30 minutes if I am playing a graphic intensive game. If I turn the monitor off and run it in its lowest power mode it will only stay running about 3 hours because of the i7 processor in the system and its nvidia 560m built in video card. With the SSD drive in this computer I get no lower than 7.4 on any of my performance settings... I suspect if I ran this off my car it would kill the battery in the car in less than a day easily with it in low power mode with no screen and this machine is setup to save as much energy as possible while being powerful enough to play almost all games out there.

                  Plus as I already said, you must have the display setup so you can't view it while the vehicle is moving or you can get into serious trouble. Some states are now trying to outlaw the use of GPS displays while driving which just seems counter productive since that is when you need to use your GPS... Let alone you playing videos for your passengers.


                  • #10
                    so let me share. the lillyput monitor I have takes hdmi input and will scale and display 1920x1080. yes, I am very keen to native resolution. and native resolution is important, but aside from text and icons becoming smaller, even on the 7" screen, logged into borderlands2 there is a noticeable difference when I switch res in game between 720 and 1080. a good way to demonstrate this is to take a picture with a camera at 800x600 res, then take the same pic at 12mp, and resize it to 800x600 and notice how much cleaner that same res picture looks. in this same light, running windows desktop at 1920x1080 and changing windows icons and text display 150% bigger makes the text easier to read than running at 1280x720.

                    viewing a screen while driving is a big part of my livelihood and it is how I support my family and pay for this project. and has been for years, now. using a laptop was my first idea for carpc. was basicly to build a docking station into the trunk. but this idea was flawed from the beginning because of the lack of performance laptops have vs. a pc. also, laptops do not share a standard for lcd connections, so using a laptop lcd in a carpc application would be next to impossible without just having the laptop occupy my pass. seat.

                    also, one more thing about my specific build. the low amp probe and my snap-on vantage pro shows that my carpc draws 5 amps without load and video card. and still under 10 amps with video card and no real load. it only goes up to 23-24 amps when in game, or blue ray playback. also, my headlamps only draw 35watts(hid's) and I have changed every single bulb inside and outside car with superbright led. my car runs an interstate mtp 65 battery. I can leave my parking lights on overnight and she still cranks fine the next morning. I really think before you push what your saying too much further, you should try some of the things I have suggrested and see this difference for yourself. then perhaps you will respect my previous claim that I know what i'm talking about. not from logic, or rational thought about an idea, but from experience. from spending so much time playing with so much different hardware. building so many full on gaming rigs. hunting the best possible image for my customers to enjoy their freetime with.
                    Attached Files


                    • #11
                      the better the source quality, the better the image will be displayed. reguardless of resolution.


                      • #12


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by AutoWiz View Post
                          the better the source quality, the better the image will be displayed. reguardless of resolution.
                          Not true...
                          This is like trying to say if you have a 5 gallon bucket you will fit more water in it if you keep pouring water into it.

                          In order to see a difference between 720p and 1080p on a small screen you have to be close to it. It is physically impossible unless you are an "alien" to view the difference on a retina display and a standard 800x600 screen for a 7" screen at 4' or more which is typical in a car.

                          If you have a monitor that only has 800x600 pixels it can't physically show more.

                          Not sure why you are bothering coming on here and asking for advice since you already know everything.

                          You must have magical equipment since no one else has the same experiences you do...

                          If you could actually run a desktop computer with add on high output graphics card at only 10watts then tablets and laptops are a waste of money to use all of their special low power components.

                          Good luck on your project, you obviously know more than people with decades of experience with this stuff...


                          • #14
                            from its start this thread has gotten nothing but negative responses. not a whole lotta support for an individuals aspirations and personal goals. mostly judgement and belittling, to be honest. i have been trying to defend myself and my projects since the first response. imho this is a poor way to welcome a new member/enthusiast.


                            • #15
                              No negativity here man, everyone's preference in what they want a carputer to do. Me, personally just want it to work, provide me with my choice of entertainment, vehicle information all with the ease of big button interface I have my big stuff at home if I want power or 1080p stuff. I want a trouble free drive as it's stressful enough with the idiots on the road. Enjoy your project and provide detailed reports of your progress. Good luck SNO