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Infrared (IR) Relocation

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  • Infrared (IR) Relocation

    Hey All,

    I have a few questions about IR and what the possibilities are for relocation. I have a wireless keyboard and I want to relocate just the IR signal reciever (I forgot what it's actually called--the little electronic device thats on the PCB that recieves the signal). I actually have two to relocate, one for my keyboard and one more for my monitor (so I can use the remote control for it still).

    One, is the plastic thats on the IR recievers special? They are tinted that red/black color, does that have anything to do with the signal?

    Two, if I put the eletronic IR devices (the ones from the PCB) behind some tinted (not regular spray paint black) will they still work? (I want to conceal the location of them if possible)

    Three, is there a max extension for these IR recievers? My monitor one will be relocated a maximum of a few inches, but the keyboard one will be extended probably about 4-5 feet--from the hatch of a 350Z to the front center console where the HU is. How is this going to affect the performance (if at all)? I don't want my keyboard to be slow and non responsive because the IR signal has to go through some long wire

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    No takers on these questions?

    Someone has to know, help a fellow member out =D


    • #3
      Usually the IR receiver module (the usually 3 legged part) is a standalone module. The pinout is just +, data, GND. So you would need 3 wires for each module. The max length of the wire is affected by three things: resistance in the wire, capacitance between the wires, and noise. The resistance part shouldn't be a problem for the lengths you would need in a car setting. Capacitance could be an issue, but using twisted pair alarm wire should help out with that (put the data and GND on a pair.)
      However...noise is going to be the single biggest factor. It's difficult to tell you what you will come across, since there are hundreds of variables involved. Your best bet is to try it. If things are intermittent and you have access to an oscilliscope, you could try looking at the data line. You will want to measure the noise present when there is no IR signal present and when there is. You will be looking for two things:
      The amplitude of the noise when there is no signal. If this goes above 2 volts, it would definitely cause problems. If it goes into the negative, it will add that to your real signal and attenuate it possibly turning your 1's into 0's.
      Frequency. Most of the modules have a carrier around 36-38KHz. If your noise happens to have any significant amplitude around that frequency, it will pretty much kill your signal. It is doubtful that you will experience any troubles with that. However, any frequency with a significant amplitude will mess with your signal. By knowing the frequency range of the biggest spikes, you can add a capacitor between the data line and ground to filter out the noise. The value of the capacitor you would need would depend on the frequency of the noise.

      So, in conclusion, you will probably not experience many problems with your idea but as a safeguard, at least use shielded twisted pair wire (connect the shielding to ground - chassis ground if possible.) If you have any trouble, use the info above about the o'scope to select a cap value. If you need to shotgun it because you don't have access to an o'scope, try these values:

      Finally, the purpose of those red/black plastic pieces are for filtering. They don't really provide much of anything, though. They are mostly cosmetic. The IR modules themselves have filters built in. So it should be fine to work without them. Basically any material that is not opaque to the 600 to 900nm (probably 850) is fine to use. It would probably even work with a thin layer of spray paint over it especially if you will be fairly close when you operate the remote.



      • #4
        I will just give it a shot and see what happends, if it doesnt work then I'll put it back the way it was, no biggie =)

        I just wanted to make sure it was a plausible idea before I hack things up for no reason and waste my time

        Thanks a lot Scott, I appreciate your help!


        • #5
          You can also build a Infra-Red Remote Control Extender

          Free circuit designs at!


          • #6
            i tryed that and after it did not work i spent the money and got this


            its well worth the money

            and it will work
            PROJECT LEXUS ES300


            • #7
              the red filter material onthe enclosures helps prevent sunlight etc affecting the signal which ic can do when you locate the sensor somewhere in a car.


              • #8
                Originally posted by Scouse Monkey
                the red filter material onthe enclosures helps prevent sunlight etc affecting the signal which ic can do when you locate the sensor somewhere in a car.
                But they usually won't help with direct sunlight. Make sure to keep the receiver in a nicely shaded spot away from windows.
                CarPC Stolen. Starting over.
                Ne1 recognize the avatar?


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mxl4729
                  i tryed that and after it did not work i spent the money and got this


                  its well worth the money

                  and it will work
                  hey mxl4729, u install it yet? does it work? how hard is the installation? i'm looking to do the same thing, so need ur feedback