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  • Nook Color & power / ignition question

    Please let me know if I need to move this to a different topic..

    I have a 2006 VW Jetta and I have only one hold up to finish my project. I bought an after-market wiring harness which has ground, constant, ignition and amp.

    I was under the impression that ignition would only deliver power when the ignition was on. I was wrong. Whether or not the ignition is on, the ignition wire is always hot.

    I found a product that will do what I need. It's here: http://www.connects2.co.uk/Instructions/Igni-Gen12V.pdf

    Unfortunately, I can't find a place that will sell it and ship it to the USA! I also don't know what exactly this thing is to search for an alternative.

    Does anyone know what I should be searching on, or if there is something else I should be doing when I try to bring power to my Nook Color when the ignition is on?

  • #2
    I just used a simple 12V automotive relay. You just need to find a real IGN wire and a constant power source wire, ground, plus one cig. lighter socket is all that I needed. Ign on, relay on, 12v switched on to the cig. lighter socket where the nook color power adapter goes.

    Using tasker app (android market), when the car is on, nook's car adapter gets power, turns on the screen. When ign is off, 12v is cut off by the relay and tasker shuts down the screen in 3 secs.
    Worklogs: 08 Sequoia Platinum Carputer (In Progress!)
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    07 Infiniti Fx35 (done!) & 06 Infiniti M35 (gone...)

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    • #3
      I've been doing a lot of research on this. It turns out, my car uses CANBUS to switch the radio on and off. So from the harness there is no accessory power that is ignition switched.

      I have two options. 1.) run a wire to a fuse that comes on with the ignition (don't want to do that), or 2.) buy this (which is more than I need but does what I want) http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_100709.pdf

      My estimate for this project was $300 - it's about to hit $500.

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      • #4
        Most add their own supply - it's cleaner than any IGN-switched power, hence less noise or glitches for audio and PCs etc.

        That requires what RipplingHurst wrote...
        You add your own fuse and relay and power wire from the battery. (Some run the battery -ve as well, usually using fig-8 cable.)

        The relay is energised by the IGN or ACC or manual switch depending on what is required.
        Many will add diodes so that combinations can be used - eg, ACC and IGN (so that the relay remains on with ACC but doesn't drop out during cranking) - just connect both via a diode (IN4004 etc) to the relay coil (86).
        Add others via diodes for more control - eg, a manual-on switch, or other sources alarms, PCs, whatever.

        That's a few $dollars with easy to get spares (which most get up front) as opposed to a costly limited solution.


        PS - that Igni-Gen12V still requires a relay, so you are essentially buying a (say) $30 Igni-Gen12V plus a $0.20 diode instead of a few $0.20 diodes! Wow - what great product! (It is for the rich and famous.)

        FYI - I note in Igni-Gen12V.pdf that they break the relay convention of 86 to +ve & 85 to GND. That really impresses me (NOT!).
        Further, that they require YOU to fit and external protection diode (like a 20c IN4004) when the unit is intended for relays... That is superb! They obviously want to give buyers the maximum chance of blowing the Igni-Gen12V - especially if wired in accordance with their instructions using a relay with inbuilt diode!
        That protection should be part of the Igni-Gen12V!
        Not that I am one for simplicity & reliability, and cheap easy DIY solutions...
        Last edited by OldSpark; 09-15-2011, 10:21 PM. Reason: ps...

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        • #5
          OldSpark (or someone else?) would you mind elaborating on how to power a tablet?

          If I want the tablet to be powered when the key is on, and also when the engine is started, I need to find two pre-existing wires in the truck? (One for acc on, and one for ign?)

          IGN---D>--\
          >---switched power tab on relay
          ACC---D>--/

          D> is supposed to be a diode, with direction
          Then of course the power from the relay goes to the tablet, and the ground to ground.

          I'm guessing the easiest way to plug the tablet in would be to get a cig-lighter to wall wart (12 to 120) adapter, and attach the power cord to the relay that way. Do I run that ground to the frame too?

          This is where my electrical knowledge gets a bit sketchy...

          If someone would be so kind as to help me out with a step-by step, or point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic!

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          • #6
            OldSpark (or someone else?) would you mind elaborating on how to power a tablet?

            If I want the tablet to be powered when the key is on, and also when the engine is started, I need to find two pre-existing wires in the truck? (One for acc on, and one for ign?)

            IGN---D>--\
            >---switched power tab on relay
            ACC---D>--/

            D> is supposed to be a diode, with direction
            Then of course the power from the relay goes to the tablet, and the ground to ground.

            I'm guessing the easiest way to plug the tablet in would be to get a cig-lighter to wall wart (12 to 120) adapter, and attach the power cord to the relay that way. Do I run that ground to the frame too?

            This is where my electrical knowledge gets a bit sketchy...

            If someone would be so kind as to help me out with a step-by step, or point me in the right direction, that would be fantastic!
            you can find power supplies on here that will supply what you need or as you suggested use a cigarette lighter adapter as your power supply, you can tie into your accessory wire off your stereo harness or your power wire from your accessory power or cig lighter outlet, this will give you the key on/off functionality. all power should already be regulated 12v DC so you wouldn't need a diode unless you are wanting to use it for something else. also if you can find a tablet that auto boots on external power or a rom that is setup to do this it will save a lot of grief if your battery dies.

            2 issues i came across with my setup were while cranking alot of transient power causes the tablet to get confused if you have macro's setup to turn on cell radio's etc when it senses external power. also be careful of pulling too much load from one source, i have a bluetooth kit, deck and booster amp all pulling off my 12 acc for my stereo and it was causing my deck to shutdown if i cranked the volume too high. depending on how you work your setup it shouldn't be a problem though.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the reply! I actually found a semi-elegant solution. http://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Batter..._bxgy_e_text_b this dohickey with some wire and an add a fuse is what I'm gonna try. Thanks for the tip on not over

              drawing from one source!
              Last edited by Longarms; 12-01-2011, 09:07 PM.

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              • #8
                You might be overthinking it. The Nook draws very little power while powered on or charging. In fact, I have mine wired to a constant 12v source. As long as it's docked, it's able to be charged. I've not had any issues with battery drain, nor do I expect to. The tablet is always charged, and since it's plugged in overnight, it's able to sync all my media, Slacker cached content, and calender info while I sleep. This may or may not be feasible for you, but I thought I'd throw in out there.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by craigbru View Post
                  You might be overthinking it. The Nook draws very little power while powered on or charging. In fact, I have mine wired to a constant 12v source. As long as it's docked, it's able to be charged. I've not had any issues with battery drain, nor do I expect to. The tablet is always charged, and since it's plugged in overnight, it's able to sync all my media, Slacker cached content, and calender info while I sleep. This may or may not be feasible for you, but I thought I'd throw in out there.
                  i might have to give that a try myself, my battery was dying over night before and initially i thought i was leaking power somewhere but my gel cell just gave out on me, what trigger did you use for turning the screen on and off if power was constant? i think i could use bluetooth connect with my obd2 or possibly wifi connect. i just wish it wasn't so damn cold outside or i'd be on it already.

                  which reminds me, make sure you have good cooling if you live in a hot climate

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                  • #10
                    If I could set my soft key to toggle the screen on/off, maybe a constant 12v would be better. I'm pretty sure my tab stays in wifi range when parked in front of my house.

                    If I can't toggle the screen with the soft key, I will have to use charging to toggle it, which means hooking it to acc.

                    Off-question. I dono what a power spike is really (yeah, more power while the car is turning over..), but could it affect the tablet? Is there something that should be done to prevent blowing it up (in-line fuse), or am I just being paranoid and dumb?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by zr2ee View Post
                      i might have to give that a try myself, my battery was dying over night before and initially i thought i was leaking power somewhere but my gel cell just gave out on me, what trigger did you use for turning the screen on and off if power was constant? i think i could use bluetooth connect with my obd2 or possibly wifi connect. i just wish it wasn't so damn cold outside or i'd be on it already.

                      which reminds me, make sure you have good cooling if you live in a hot climate
                      Yeah, I think if anyone has a charging Nook kill their battery overnight, it's likely due for replacement anyway. If your battery was due, then it's hard to say what affect the Nook really had. I've played around with using a bluetooth trigger when my cell phone gets in range. The two connect, and the screen turns on. It then turns off when out of range. It works pretty well, but I don't always have bluetooth enabled on my phone. Half the time I simply tap the 'N' button on the front of the Nook to turn on the screen, and then tap the power button to turn it off. My Nook never deep sleeps, so it's always instantaneous. If you are not using an external dock such as I am, then that may not work as well for you since your power button may be hidden.


                      Originally posted by Longarms View Post
                      If I could set my soft key to toggle the screen on/off, maybe a constant 12v would be better. I'm pretty sure my tab stays in wifi range when parked in front of my house.

                      If I can't toggle the screen with the soft key, I will have to use charging to toggle it, which means hooking it to acc.

                      Off-question. I dono what a power spike is really (yeah, more power while the car is turning over..), but could it affect the tablet? Is there something that should be done to prevent blowing it up (in-line fuse), or am I just being paranoid and dumb?
                      It should certainly be possible to set a soft key to trigger the screen. If you've got Tasker, try setting up a bluetooth trigger instead of wifi. It's shorter range may work better for you.

                      Yes, there can be a spike during vehicle starts, but I wouldn't worry about it. Actual car PC components may be more susceptible to possible damage, but it should be a non-issue here. I am using the Nook's car kit, that is hardwired into 12v constant power from my OEM stereo harness.

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                      • #12
                        Yeah, I think if anyone has a charging Nook kill their battery overnight, it's likely due for replacement anyway. If your battery was due, then it's hard to say what affect the Nook really had. I've played around with using a bluetooth trigger when my cell phone gets in range. The two connect, and the screen turns on. It then turns off when out of range. It works pretty well, but I don't always have bluetooth enabled on my phone. Half the time I simply tap the 'N' button on the front of the Nook to turn on the screen, and then tap the power button to turn it off. My Nook never deep sleeps, so it's always instantaneous. If you are not using an external dock such as I am, then that may not work as well for you since your power button may be hidden.
                        i am using a dock but it's behind the face plate of my dash so the power button is hidden, i was trying to keep it as factory as i could. i have a OBDII bluetooth adapter i use for torque so i think that would make a good trigger, the cell phone isn't a bad idea either though. with tasker i could set a "in range" profile for my phone with a low sensetivity so it would only pick up while i was in the car.

                        Yes, there can be a spike during vehicle starts, but I wouldn't worry about it. Actual car PC components may be more susceptible to possible damage, but it should be a non-issue here. I am using the Nook's car kit, that is hardwired into 12v constant power from my OEM stereo harness.
                        i agree with craigbru, there are multiple fuses in line to stop transient spikes including most cig adapters. what i meant from that is during starting your tablet will not see it's constant required power (5V @ 250mA or whatever is required) because of all the electrical noise in the system due to starting. this will cause the tablet toggle it's external power trigger on and off very rapidly until the vehicle is running and constant stable power is achieved. this can cause your rules to get confused and not always work correctly (ex. wifi doesn't always turn on, screen timeout doesn't turn off etc.)

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by zr2ee View Post
                          i am using a dock but it's behind the face plate of my dash so the power button is hidden, i was trying to keep it as factory as i could. i have a OBDII bluetooth adapter i use for torque so i think that would make a good trigger, the cell phone isn't a bad idea either though. with tasker i could set a "in range" profile for my phone with a low sensetivity so it would only pick up while i was in the car.
                          Yep, an 'in range' profile should work. The Nook doesn't actually have a bluetooth antenna, so it's range is only about 5 feet. It will usually have the screen turned on just as I'm opening the door. Perfect really.

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                          • #14
                            Fuses do NOT stop spikes. They prevent long-term overcurrent, but not spike or surge protection. Spikes are usually voltage which has done the damage before the fuses have time to react.


                            The ACC circuit will break (turn off) when cranking.
                            Hence why many join ACC & IGN via diodes - usually to power a relay that supplies cleaner +12V from the battery to the load. But the small 5V USB load's converter should handle them (if an automotive 12V converter (ie, from 8-16V etc) as opposed to a 12V DC to 5V converter (ie, expects regulated 12V, or may not tolerate vehicle voltages of >14.5V etc).



                            As to "several fuses" protecting... I presume each (power) wire has a fuse rather than several in-line fuses. Normal fuse distribution is ok (eg, battery 100A flink via "IGN" 60A flink via 20A fuse for accessories via 10A for cig lighter via (maybe) 30A on the load's final leg) - but avoid more than one inline fuse (especially if similar size) in dedicated circuits.

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