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  • Question on installing Xenarc..

    Quick question, how is everyone hooking up their screen for power?

    Are you just cutting of the power supply plug, splitting the two wires, determining positive/negative wires, then splicing them into the same ones used for the Headunit?

    I'm installing my Xenarc and Auto PC this weekend, so I'm trying to get all of my ducks in a row before I started pulling stuff apart.

    Thanks!
    Scott

  • #2
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...1510#post91510
    Car: 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
    Mods: Yep
    Carputer: VIA M9000 | Opus 150 | 512MB PC2100 | 60GB Notebook HD | Slim/Slot DVD/CDRW | Audigy2NX | Xenarc 700TSV | (2) DSCustoms DS700HRS (in trunk) | SMC USB 802.11b | CoPilot | DLink FM tuner | Cliffnet

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    • #3
      Ok, so I'm having a little trouble with the Xenarc screen. First off, the main connector on the back of the unit SUX! Right now it's about as securely fastened as it's going to get.

      Here are my issues....after connecting it up (positive to headunit 12v Ignition/ACC lead and negative to ground on the car), it worked fine for about the first 15 minutes of driving home, then the screen started to flicker, appear to lose signal and/or turn off/on. I'm sure if it's not getting the right power, ground, or the damn video connector is still causing problems.

      Any thoughts from people that have installed the Xenarc screen? Did I hook it up wrong? Also, I'm getting the scrolling horizontal lines on the screen as well...I tried the negative lead to the headunit ground and then tried grounding directly to the car and still have the line? Thoughts?

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      • #4
        are you using an inverter? might be noise from that or other part of the car.

        Comment


        • #5
          try grounding the computer and screen to the same point.

          as for the video.... it's most likely the video connector on the back.. use the supplied clip thing to secure it, and wire tie it as best you can.
          Car: 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
          Mods: Yep
          Carputer: VIA M9000 | Opus 150 | 512MB PC2100 | 60GB Notebook HD | Slim/Slot DVD/CDRW | Audigy2NX | Xenarc 700TSV | (2) DSCustoms DS700HRS (in trunk) | SMC USB 802.11b | CoPilot | DLink FM tuner | Cliffnet

          Comment


          • #6
            My theory was correct...the power to the Xenarc screen was the issue. I determined this by hooking up the screen back to the AC adapter then using the AC Inverter that is already powering my PC. What this also did was remove the nasty lines due to the fact both devices are being grounded at the same place (the inverter). I guess with my amps, etc, it just didn't like the fluctuation in power it was getting. I should have realized this when the instructions for the screen said if you cut off the AC adapter you need a fused, 1 amp, regulated power source. Ahhhhh, damn who reads instructions anyway!

            So, problem solved for right.......well hold on because now I caused a new problem. With both items plugged into the AC power inverter the noise it adds to my stereo systme is unbearable. In my research I heard that Inverter noise could be an issue and I noticed it a little with the PC plugged in, but with the screen plugged...damn....can't do it.

            So now I need to find a method of taking a 12V DC to a fused regulated power source....any ideas?

            I'm going to contact Xenarc to see if they offer a product or have partner that does. Past that it's back to searching the Internet for a solution!

            Comment


            • #7
              please be sure to post a reply!!!

              I have been trying to work out how to regulate a car power supply so that I can feed it straight in to an EPIA motherboard in a Cubid case. The Cubid cases come with a DC - DC power supply. However, I do not feel good about sticking the car battery straight in to it without regulating the supply.

              Problem is I do not know how you regulate a car powersupply!

              phoTToniq

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by phoTToniq
                please be sure to post a reply!!!

                I have been trying to work out how to regulate a car power supply so that I can feed it straight in to an EPIA motherboard in a Cubid case. The Cubid cases come with a DC - DC power supply. However, I do not feel good about sticking the car battery straight in to it without regulating the supply.

                Problem is I do not know how you regulate a car powersupply!

                phoTToniq
                Well, nobody has really said yay, or nay, about something I found in maplin, but I posted it here in This thread about an alternative energy source regulator, for use with a windmill.
                4x4 in a turbo stylee.

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                • #9
                  Unfortunetly, they provide no additional details on this and I'm no EE so this leaves me still stuck!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by aggie300zx
                    Unfortunetly, they provide no additional details on this and I'm no EE so this leaves me still stuck!
                    true the link to the regulator lists no details, but the one to the windmill that sends power to it does.

                    It lists power produced at certain windspeeds, and does mention 12v 5amp 60ish watts.

                    It was just a thought that alternative power type groups may have already cracked the voltage regulation problem of 12V for us, we just have to take it up.
                    4x4 in a turbo stylee.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      There are a lot of 12v regulated power supplies out there.

                      However to produce the power required...around 2 amps you may have to pay around $40-90.

                      The devices are normally used to power laptops.

                      They will lower the normal DC power output of 13-14vdc to the 12vdc and also will raise a lower than 12v input...but at a loss of amperage.

                      In other words, if you have a 2amp draw, and a 2amp powersupply, then if the input drops below 12v you will not have 2amps available.

                      Look at Radio Shack and the laptop powersupplies.

                      The other powersupplies, like battery replacement etc, usually only put out .5amp (500ma) I don't think that will be enough power to drive a larger screen.

                      And the fuse part you can do yourself...put a fuse on the output line.
                      current projects

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                      • #12
                        weird i have no noise on my xenarc and it's just hooked up to my acc
                        Car: 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
                        Mods: Yep
                        Carputer: VIA M9000 | Opus 150 | 512MB PC2100 | 60GB Notebook HD | Slim/Slot DVD/CDRW | Audigy2NX | Xenarc 700TSV | (2) DSCustoms DS700HRS (in trunk) | SMC USB 802.11b | CoPilot | DLink FM tuner | Cliffnet

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I like where you are going with this. My first plan was just to get the screen working off of the DC power from the car, until the Opus 90W ITX power supply comes out for the PC.

                          Therefore, the screen say it needs a fused 1amp regulated power source, so if I took lets say the 12V Ignition/ACC lead and then put a fuse inline and then one of these regulators to produce a 12V signal then I could hook it up to the positive lead on the screen?

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                          • #14
                            Ok, so I think I found what you were refering too....

                            So, using my example above, the 12V Ignition/ACC lead is already fused since it goes to the headunit, then inline I connect a Fixed-Voltage Regulator ($1.49 Catalog #: 276-1771, see details below) and then take the lead out of it to my screen? Is it that simple or did I miss something? The heat sink?

                            276-1771:
                            Overload protected. Rated 1 amp (heat sink required). 35VDC maximum input. TO-220 case. Type: 7812; Output: +12VDC

                            http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=276%2D1771

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              you'll need about 5 or 6 of those regulators cause they are only 1 amp and you need 5 amps.

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