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Wiring question for GL701 from M1-ATX psu

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  • Wiring question for GL701 from M1-ATX psu

    Hey guys

    I have a horrible sneaking feeling I'm being a bit thick here but I'm going to ask anyway! He who asks is a fool for 5 minutes etc.

    I've got my car pc installed now (finally) into the glovebox in my car and GL701 monitor in the dash.

    It works fine but to reduce (hopefully) the odds of the lilliput breaking I want it 1) only opening/closing when the pc is in use, and 2) staying on regardless of the ignition key position.
    Specifically re' the latter, I mean so it doesn't lose power momentarily when I turn the engine off & back on etc.

    I want to run it from the M1-ATX therefore, and know I can run it from the 12v output of that but something just occurred to me that I'm not sure about.

    The monitor of course has 2x +v feeds (battery and ignition). Whereas presumably the 12v output from the PSU gives all or nothing to the mobo (except maybe the 5v switch sensing voltage or whatever it is?).
    So, as far as I can tell this leaves me two options re' wiring the monitor in:

    1) Monitor gets ignition only +v from the M1ATX, and battery +v from car 12v normal supply.
    If this is done, won't it defeat the object of getting the proper stable 12v supply since the main feed is coming from the normal system on the car that fluctuates? OR:

    2) Monitor gets BOTH ignition +v and battery +v from the M1ATX PSU.
    This would give a nice clean/stable 12v supply which should reduce the odds of the monitor succumbing to "lilliput syndrome" (being broken!) so quick, but won't it mean that it loses all the settings each time it is powered off since it has no permanent 12v supply to make it remember settings?

    Sorry if the answer is really obvious and I have a suspicion it is, but I'm sleep deprived at the moment.
    That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!!

    I have a small amount of time to modify the wiring tonight with my kids not around so if someone could advise I'd be grateful!!

    I have been reading through the sticky thread about powering the LCD from the PC but haven't seen a comment about this yet and am limited how long I can spend reading all the way through it. So apologies if it's covered somewhere in that thread already!


  • #2
    Ok, I tried tonight to move the power feed from the car harness to the M1ATX.

    It worked of course but for starters had horrendous interference that was not present previously. Lots of scrolling horizontal lines for what its worth.

    I tried to combat this by basically using both sources to power the screen. What I mean by this is that I now have it with the yellow (battery +v) lead running from the car's 12v battery harness, and the red (ignition +v) wire on the monitor powered by the PSU via a molex (yellow wire).

    It has helped with the interferance considerably, by returning the main feed to the car harness instead of from the PSU, and in addition the monitor now behaves how I want, in that when I turn the PC on (I use a manual on/off switch for it from the mobo) the monitor turns on and folds out. Perfect. And when I turn off the PC the monitor closes. Perfect again.

    Except there is a weird thing going on now. Basically there is now a situation somehow where there is power to the M1 ATX permanently! Ie, I don't even need the key in the ignition to switch it on, even though it is wired into the same supply it previously had, which gives correct battery +v and switched +v.

    I have a suspicion that somehow the battery +v signal into the monitor (from the car 12v system) is finding its way via the monitor through the ignition +v of the monitor into the PSU and causing it to always have power. Does that sound stupid?

    Be grateful for ideas anyway. It's sort of doing what I want but not quite....


    • #3
      To make it a little bit more easy to picture, here's a picture.

      This is how it's currently wired. I'm sure it shouldn't be able to run the PC without the key in the ignition, but here's how I set it up anyway....

      Picture doesn't seem to work so here's a clicky link instead...


      • #4