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Modding the new Motorized VGA Screens

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  • Modding the new Motorized VGA Screens

    Hey All,

    I count myself among the lucky to have gotten my unit (The DWW-700M)You know the one, the new Motorized VGA units being sold by Armen at DWW and here on MP3Car.com.

    Well, while I am excited, there are some issues that are bothering some people. First, the unit does not Automatically extend when the car is started. One must press a button to get it to come out. While I am lazy, I am not too lazy to press the button, but why should it act like that. It should be able to automatically extend. The other "issue" is that the front LCD for the clock and the Power button stay illuminated even whe the car is off.

    I believe that these are flaws, yet they were designed into the unit. I want to change this some how.

    First, I am working on the lighting when off issue. That seems to be an easy solution, and I hope to have something worked out in the next day or so. I will post my results, and how to do it then. Don't want to give hope when I am not 100 percent sure I can do it.

    THe other issue, the "AutoExtend" can be attacked in a couple of ways. The first, not so elegent, and the second, elegent, but a pain.

    I noticed when I took the unit apart (Not completely, just enough to see) that there is a PLCC chip on the main board. I believe that chip is the "brains" of the operation. Luckily it is socketed, so it can be easily removed. However, once I figure out what it is (I can't read the numbers on it yet) I believe we will be able to remove it, and get it reprogrammed. Where, however, is the big question. Does anyone have any experience with programing these things? I have no idea what language, and I do not have the ability to program PLCC's. I have found a place that does BIOS restoration on PLCC's, and I will contact him to see if he can extract the information, and perhaps the smart people on here can figure it out, and make the appropriate changes.

    I will work on the not so elegant approach over the next day or so as well, and see if I can make some changes. Not sure how well it will work, but it is worth a try.

    Please post here if you have worked, can work, or think you can help with this.

    Thanx
    Michael
    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

  • #3
    Well get the numbers from the chip, if it's a pic microcontroller I doubt you will be able to pull the code off of it as they have a read protect bit. But there is nothing to say that we couldnt get a replacement and write our own program, might even be able to put in some more error checking in case the screen doesnt extend fully, etc, etc
    肚子笑痛了
    S60 Install

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    • #4
      Originally posted by jcdillin
      Well get the numbers from the chip, if it's a pic microcontroller I doubt you will be able to pull the code off of it as they have a read protect bit. But there is nothing to say that we couldnt get a replacement and write our own program, might even be able to put in some more error checking in case the screen doesnt extend fully, etc, etc
      The only issue I see with that is figuring out the Different I/O's the chip is using now.

      Didn't know about the protection scheme. Bummer.

      Perhpas the company that made the units can reprogram them for us. What a novel idea.

      Michael
      ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

      Comment


      • #5
        You could power the unit from a DSSC. When you put the key in the ignition, it can emulate a button press and provide power to the unit. That would solve both of your issues with one solution.

        When you take the key out, the power to the Motorized display would stay on for about 5 minutes, then turn off completely (including the LCD display and power button led).

        So basically, when you get in your car and put the key in the ignition, the display would turn on an fold up. Then when you turn the ignition off, the display would fold back in and then turn off the display a few minutes later.

        Just a suggestion, but it seems like a perfect solution for this. And it's a lot cheaper than any of the other startup shutdown controllers.
        Check out my carputers:
        DVD, GPS, MP3, 6.4" LCD Touchscreen, 5" Headrest LCDs, PSone, DSSC, etc.

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        • #6
          Originally posted by bergeron76
          You could power the unit from a DSSC. When you put the key in the ignition, it can emulate a button press and provide power to the unit. That would solve both of your issues with one solution.

          When you take the key out, the power to the Motorized display would stay on for about 5 minutes, then turn off completely (including the LCD display and power button led).

          So basically, when you get in your car and put the key in the ignition, the display would turn on an fold up. Then when you turn the ignition off, the display would fold back in and then turn off the display a few minutes later.

          Just a suggestion, but it seems like a perfect solution for this. And it's a lot cheaper than any of the other startup shutdown controllers.


          Sorry, but what is a DSSC? Can't seem to find anything about it.

          I will, however, post a complete Mod for both issues tonight. Just need to get 2 parts (Hopefully Ratshack will have the second piece I need)

          Michael
          ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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          • #7
            Wiredwrx, I also got this unit and was very concerned about the two issues, I have an access to a programmer and I can take a look at that chip early next week. I'm also concerened about the lights staying out, I have a wrx as well and around here in the tri-state area they were high on the theft list, so I don't want to add to it.

            LMK what you come up with..

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            • #8
              hey im on the fence to buying the motorized unit. i have a Xenarc 700TSV with the high brightness upgrade and noticed it uses the same or simmilar lcd panels would you be able to switch out panels so i could use the one with the high brightness upgrades(sent out to xenarc one) unless it already has those features. im not really sure of the schematics as obviously i dont have the new one yet. Anybody familliar with the two units the Xenarc and The motorized could tell me if my upgrade idea would be plausible. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. If not i have a very nice spot to put my upgraded xenarc in the back of my car. Just curious.
              Andoid-car.com
              Home of Android Car Enthusiasts

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              • #9
                Originally posted by cyberpotato
                hey im on the fence to buying the motorized unit. i have a Xenarc 700TSV with the high brightness upgrade and noticed it uses the same or simmilar lcd panels would you be able to switch out panels so i could use the one with the high brightness upgrades(sent out to xenarc one) unless it already has those features. im not really sure of the schematics as obviously i dont have the new one yet. Anybody familliar with the two units the Xenarc and The motorized could tell me if my upgrade idea would be plausible. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. If not i have a very nice spot to put my upgraded xenarc in the back of my car. Just curious.
                I am not sure if it will fit, but it might. I don't have the manual in front of me now, but I do remember seeing that it mentioned which screen is in there. Perhaps you can determine the size, and figure out if it will fit.

                Michael
                ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Originally posted by vadimr
                  Wiredwrx, I also got this unit and was very concerned about the two issues, I have an access to a programmer and I can take a look at that chip early next week. I'm also concerened about the lights staying out, I have a wrx as well and around here in the tri-state area they were high on the theft list, so I don't want to add to it.

                  LMK what you come up with..

                  That would be great. I did go ahead and modify the unit. However, as you will see when I post it, there are some issues which a reprogram will correct. Let me know what you find out, and if you need any help.

                  Michael
                  ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Can any one host some pics for me??? I have the mod article ready to go, and no place to host the pics.

                    Anyone?

                    Thanx
                    Michael
                    ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      You may want to look at the threads on the "Coyote auto on mod" for Lilliputs to get some inspiration.

                      The mod basically was setup to press the power button when the lilliput first got power. It only took a resistor and a capacitor to get the button press done.

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by archimense
                        You may want to look at the threads on the "Coyote auto on mod" for Lilliputs to get some inspiration.

                        The mod basically was setup to press the power button when the lilliput first got power. It only took a resistor and a capacitor to get the button press done.
                        Thanx for the help. I thought about that. There is a problem though. First, the unit "Boots" for a couple of seconds once the ignition power goes high, during which the button to extend the unit does not work. Second, the Lili looks for the control line to go low, to signal an on condition. The motorized housing doesn't work entirely in that way. There is a microcontroler that is controlled based on what voltage is present on a line. In that way, all the button on top of the motorized screen can be connected with just 3 or 4 wires. Voltage is passed thru the switch, and then a resistor, which alters the voltage. The microcontroler then can tell which button is pressed based on the voltage, so simply taking the line to ground would not accomplish the button press.

                        It was, however, a good idea.

                        Thanx
                        Michael
                        ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Time to Modify.

                          First off, let me thank Armen from Digital WW for hosting the pics for the article, and thanx to everyone else who offered.

                          K, Lets start.

                          You need some wire. I ended up finding some 60 conductor ribbon cable of 24 gauge wire, about 2 feet long.
                          You need a lever switch,
                          and 2 miniature 12 volt relays,
                          and a Hot glue gun
                          Solder
                          15 to 40 watt Soldering iron with Fine Tip.

                          Now, A word of caution. If you live where it is really hot, then I would use some sort of apoxy or other type of glue. I once used Hot glue for something in the car. Soon after, I ended up in Phoneix, AZ, in the summer. Well, it got soo hot, the glue melted. So, be carefull. I may just change it to be sure, but I haven’t decided yet.

                          Here is the schemtic.



                          Now, take the unit apart. Be careful with the main ribbon cable. The front panel has a small connector, just disconnect it. In fact, the unit will work fine with out it connected.

                          I then removed the circuit board from the front panel.




                          On the front of the circuit board is the clock and the backlight. I de-soldered one leg of the back light, and then soldered in a wire to the location the leg was soldered to, and one wire to the lifted leg. (Sorru, I thought I got a pic. I will try and get one to show you what I mean) I also cheated, and covered the power button LED with some electrical tape. I figure I really didn’t need the led anyway, and I couldn't see unsoldering a leg like the backlight, because the LED sits flush with the board. (IF you figure something out, let me know please) I then brought the wire out, and re installed the circuit board into the front panel.


                          (Don't pay attention to that extra wire there, it was a failed attempt at something)

                          I then soldered 2 feet of wire to each leg of the lever switch I purchased.

                          I then turned the unit over, and removed the bottom panel, and the main circuit board. I found the place to mount the lever switch by making sure that the switch would close when the screen is all the way in. I wiped the area clean, and then scraped some paint away, and hot glued the switch in.




                          I then also, as close to the switch as possible, glued the wires as a strain relief, but be careful cause the first time I did it (Like in the picture, so don't do it exactly like the pic, put it as close as possible), it was in a bad place, and the wires kept hitting the front panel whent he unit tried to extend, so just be weary of it.

                          I also soldered 2 feet of wire to the switched and ground contact for the main connector. (I don't have pics right now, I will try and get some later)

                          Next, I removed the rear of the screen part of the unit, to gain access to the top buttons. They pop right out after you take the back back off. Note, hold the screen so it doesn’t fall and hurt something.




                          I unplugged the top switch circuit board, and removed it.



                          Next, I soldered 2 feet of wire to each side of the switch.


                          Be Careful not to use too much heat, and use a Fine tip soldering iron (This doesn't look so good cause I didn't have a fine tip soldering iron).

                          I took the other ends, and threaded them behind the screen, then out the hole in the bottom center of the screen, and then into the hole following where the screen ribbon cable went. You should be able to see it in the pics.



                          You can just see the wires to the left of the ribbon cable that spans between the screen and the main body of the unit.

                          I actually put the unit back together some, to test and make sure that when I touched the wires coming from the top switch the unit would open and close the screen, and that when I connect and disconnect the backlight wires, the back light came on and off. It did, but it is a good idea to check.

                          I ran all the wires to the front to make all the connections to the relays. I then soldered everything to the relays, and used some hot glue to mount the relays into the front panel.



                          The Vid is pretty crappy, but you can see the clock is off, yet the blue button is on. Then, the clock comes on, and the screen opens. Then it closes, and you can tell the clock is off again.

                          I will take a vid with my Video camera, and post that instead later tonight.

                          The Vid


                          There are two problems right now, both of which don’t bother me at all. First, if one attempts to close the unit by pressing the switch on top of the display while the igniton is hot, it will close, but will immediately open again. I am working on a circuit to fix that. And, the blue top button stays on even when the unit is off. I may just cover it with some tape as well as an easy solution.
                          ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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                          • #15
                            Sorry, but what is a DSSC? Can't seem to find anything about it.
                            It's a startup / shutdown controller. You can read more about it here; or search this site for 'dssc'.
                            Check out my carputers:
                            DVD, GPS, MP3, 6.4" LCD Touchscreen, 5" Headrest LCDs, PSone, DSSC, etc.

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