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  • SP-716 Problems

    I have installed my SP-716 TS in my car now and have noticed some issues that I'm trying to isolate.

    Previous to installing the TS I had it connected to a Pyramid DC Bench Power Supply for testing with the RED and YELLOW wires to 12V and the BLACK an GREEN wires to ground.

    My install in my car is as follows:

    - Pioneer headunit remote wire energizes a relay which provides 12V ACC to my amps, eq, xover, and also to one of two switches mounted in my center console. SW1
    - 12V from battery is run to second of two switches. SW2
    - When SW2 is closed 12V is provided to the OPUS 120W
    - When SW1 is closed ACC is provided to the OPUS 120W
    - SP-716 RED ran to the OPUS side of SW1 (ACC from closed SW1 lead is run to barrier strip where OPUS and LCD ACC are connected)
    - SP-716 YELLOW ran to OPUS provided 12V (yellow wire taken from molex and soldered to terminal and mounted on barrier strip)
    - Grounding point in dash provided for SP-716
    - Grounding point ran to barrier strip to provide ground for OPUS, and separate case fans.

    So in summary:

    SW1 closed lead > barrier strip ACC > to OPUS ACC (RED), case fans, and SP-716 ACC (RED)
    SW2 closed lead > barrier strip 12V > to OPUS 12V (YELLOW)
    OPUS 12V from Molex > barrier strip > to SP-716 12V (YELLOW)
    OPUS GND, fan grounds > barrier strip > to central grounding point in dash.

    Hopefully this makes sense. I'm in the process of finalizing the diagram.

    Anyways, the problem I am seeing is that when I flip SW2 to provide OPUS with 12V, then flip SW1 to provide ACC and engage case fans, the OPUS turns on and provides 12V to the LCD, and in turn ACC is provided by the closed SW1. The problem I see is that I press the open button on the SP-716 and it opens and pauses for a second and then closes again. It does this repeatedly. The odd time it will stay open. Then the second problem occurs is that when it is open, the computer's display flips up for about a second and then black. I would say about 1 out of 15-20 attempts I can get lucky enough to have the screen stay open and the display stay on.

    It worked flawless on the bench and the only time I saw a problem with the screen opening and then closing again is when the ACC was not a solid connection or if ACC is removed. This doesn't explain my issue with the image coming up for a second and then disappearing, or at least I don't think it is related.

    When I get time this weekend I'm going to go connection troubleshooting but in the mean time I'm looking to see if anyone has experienced similar issues and if there are any suggestions out there for my problem.

    This SP-716 was an Ebay auction from Yuki, so I'm not sure if I have any warranty if the unit is defective. It worked great on the bench so I would hope this isn't the case.....

    Thanks for anyone who can shed some insight here.

  • #2
    Maybe the screen isn't getting enough current to stay on (or stay open) ?
    Current Setup

    Nexus 7 Tablet
    Built in head unit
    Brutus 1500Watt Amp
    Two Boston 12" subs

    2006 Infiniti M45 Sport ;) My 4 door Camaro... lol

    Comment


    • #3
      What are your system specs? What is running off of what exactly. I think this is a power issue also.
      7" Lilli TS, Soyo K7VME, Semperon 2200, 160GB Maxtor, 512mb PC3200, Deluo GPS, Panasonic Slim DVD/CD RW, Linksys WMP545G , Opus 150w, XMDirect, XP Pro, FP, IG [XXXXXXXXX-] 90%
      ATVMS.com

      Comment


      • #4

        Comment


        • #5
          Currently off of the OPUS 120 is the following components:

          -MB870 motherboard with 1.8ghz Pentium M 2mb chip (w/htsnk+fan), 512mb ram
          -Atheros 5004 Mini-pci card
          -4200rpm Hitachi 20GB 2.5" drive
          -PPA Int'l 1820 4-Port Non Powered USB Hub with both USB plugs plugged into motherboard for additional power if needed. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817112104)
          -BU-353 USB GPS Reciever (off USB hub)
          -USB Touchscreen cable also off USB hub
          -SP-716 TS LCD off 12V wire taken from Molex

          Doesn't seem like much really but it is possible I guess that the 12V rail is being overloaded and thus the LCD backlight cannot stay lit? I could put my amprobe on it to measure the current draw. I see the items in your signature sfay93 and you are running the Opus 150 so I would hate to think my 120 would be overwhelmed with the few components I've got so far on it.

          I have plans to add my Audigy NX 2, Panasonic slot load dvd/cdr drive and few other usb peripherals.

          If of course that is where you are going.....

          Comment


          • #6
            That's a lot for what I would guess is a 120Watt power source ? From what I remember the screen needs about an amp or so to run. That would be about 12 watts. Why don't you just power it off your battery directly ?!
            Current Setup

            Nexus 7 Tablet
            Built in head unit
            Brutus 1500Watt Amp
            Two Boston 12" subs

            2006 Infiniti M45 Sport ;) My 4 door Camaro... lol

            Comment


            • #7
              The only reason I didn't run 12V direct to the LCD was the thread that was posted regarding how to power the LCD and it recommended always using the PSU due to it being a regulated source.

              I think the problem is related to power as after you guys suggested it as a possible issue, I disconnected the USB hub that is powered by the mobo and the lcd seems to come out and on more reliably.

              Now I do have a question, does anyone know whether I can get a filter/regulator of some sort that I can have inline if I decide to run 12V from the battery directly? Or should I be overly worried about it? I just don't want any spikes to damage the LCD.

              Thanks!

              Comment


              • #8
                I wouldn't worry about it. If you are, there's 12 Volt power supplies on the internet designed to regulate the voltage coming off your car's battery. OR you could just build one yourself with a 12 Volt regulating chip that you can get at Radio Shack
                Current Setup

                Nexus 7 Tablet
                Built in head unit
                Brutus 1500Watt Amp
                Two Boston 12" subs

                2006 Infiniti M45 Sport ;) My 4 door Camaro... lol

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks NRGZ28 for all your input and others who posted. I think I've got this problem narrowed. Just need to do a little rewiring and I think I'm going to be good to go.

                  Comment

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