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  • Lilli Problems...No display?

    I have a working 619 screen with two controller's. I dont know if the controlers are bad, but so far they look like they are working. One controller is the 619 controler, from the looks of all the images, and plus it has the plug up for the buttons (and I have the buttons, but they just stopped working because of a damaged ribbon cable). The other controller plugs up to the screen fine and the usb and the lilli vga/usb cable, but doesn't have the right plugin for the buttons. Which I just recieved my brand new 300mm ribbon cable and vga/usb cable in the mail. The controller that has the right plugin for the buttons has a small little spool of coper broken off of it on the bottom left hand corner, there was a long peice of copper that I just connected the two points back together just to try out. I was told this controller doesn't work. But he wasn't sure. The controller that doesn't have the right plugin for the buttonsis what he told me works. he used it on his other screen and it suposedly worked fine.

    Here's the problem. Both controlers when pluged up properly (I belive) will turn the screen on and leave it on. (I'm not too sure about the unknown controler). Meaning there will be a white screen. like just the backlight is turned on and thats it. So it knows there's a signal, but nothing is being shown on the screen. Thats why I bought a new ribbon cable. I let it stay on, and when my screen was supposed to turn off (windows setting), the screen went blank. I moved the mouse and it turned back on. So obviously it seems like its working but there isn't a connection between the controler and the screen.

    The unknown controller, I think it isn't in vga mode... but since I can't plug up the buttons, I dont know how to switch it over to vga mode to see if it works. I played with the ribbon cable, tried both ways (its a one way ribbon cable from www.digitalww.com)...

    So what do you think? I want to get this thing figured out... I'd rather not buy a new screen... But I'm going to keep working this out for a little longer before I crack and just buy a new screen. I have till friday before I place the order or pay someone for a working used one.

    So please help!
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
    ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
    RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

  • #2
    21 people read this so far and there is nothing that can be said?
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
    ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
    RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

    Comment


    • #3
      ABSTRACT: no wonder you get 0 responses, your original post borders on unreadable. your writing, spelling, grammar and the level in which you understand what you're taking apart leads me to 2 probable conclusions, one having something to do with trans-ams, double-wides and eating cold spaghetti-o's out of a kool-whip container, or the other conclusion being that you should ask your shop teacher these questions, or at least ask him what the parts you're holding are called. then you can come back and try this again.



      to start with, your post is very confusing. by controller's (sic), are you talking about remote controls? or the PCB that sits below the screen and works the buttons?

      "One controller is the 619 controler(sic), from the looks of all the images, and plus it has the plug up for the buttons".... i think that means the PCB controller board for the buttons....and that you damaged the ribbon cable that connects the buttons to the main controller board.

      "The other controller plugs up to the screen fine" do you mean the ribbon cable? there's another ribbon cable that connects to the main controller board, maybe that's what ur talking about?

      "but doesn't have the right plugin for the buttons" well yah, the VGA ribbon cable is a 40 pin cable, whereas the PCB controller board for the buttons is like a 10 pin (maybe).


      "The controller that has the right plugin for the buttons has a small little spool of coper broken off of it on the bottom left hand corner" ummm... copper hanging off any PCB board is bad... unless you can post pics of what ur talking about, throw it in the trash.

      "Both controlers when pluged up properly" both controllers probably references the VGA controller board and the button controller board.


      the rest of it is too illogical to understand without definite answers as to what these mystery words (controller, plugin, other controller, 619 controller, unknown controller)

      my parting words:

      TAKE PICTURES. LABEL THEM. LOTS OF PICTURES.

      Comment


      • #4
        1st, your insults are uncalled for.
        2nd, Everyone I know that has read the post understands ten fold what I'm talking about. IF you'd just read slowly to make sure your grabing every word properly you would get it.

        Now if I can develop another way to describe things, I Will do so, just for your sake.

        So, THE MAIN PCB, which everyone calls it the LCD CONTROLER, is the area I am having problems with, I belive! I have two. Both of them look very similar to a 619 PCB (or LCD Controler). With some differences like, The PCB Controler Board for the 619 Buttons has the 10pin Ribbon Cable (flexible printed cable), it plugs up to the PCB LCD Controler that has the broken peice. The other PCB LCD Controler that has no physical damage, has a different plug for the 10pin Button PCB. It has actual 10pins that look similar to the USB Plug and the VGA Plug, minus the fact that it has 10pins!

        On both PCB LCD Controlers, right next to the power, they both have a wide plug that is identical on both. But from all my readings, its supposed to look like a USB? I dont know what they mean because it doesn't look anything like a USB Port in any shape or form I've seen USB's come in.

        Right now I know that the PCB LCD Controller that has the physical damage (the spool of coper) is a new 619 controler, not like the older one that is shown on DWW. The second is unknown. I haven't seen any photos of it anywhere I have looked.

        And also right now I have that unknown PCB LCD Controller hooked up to the computer and to the Hitatchi LCD the best I can, which from the looks is perfect. But thats just physical looks. And so far it seems like its working but not sending a video feed to the LCD. The LCD Stays lit up unless the computer goes into screen saver mode. Which any normal monitor will go into power save mode, so that is what I belive it is doing.

        The PCB with the broken spool, I was told by the previous owner it worked fine on his LCD, and my LCD that he gave me works fine on his PCB Controller.

        So I hope that is easier to understand and I will post photos as soon as I'm not soo damn swamped with work and remodeling my house.
        1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
        ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
        RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

        Comment


        • #5
          1st. we're going to clear up the "USB or is it USB" thing. coming out of the monitor isn't a USB. it's not because it's not universal (*u*niversal *s*erial *b*us). instead it's specific to lilliput monitors. I have pictures here (at the bottom)

          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=92047

          those are the cords that come with the lilliput. the plug that goes into the lilliput resembles a USB, but it's not.

          so you have LCD controller boards.... which are obviously not the same. they differ because one

          backlight on with nothing coming up on the screen? no signal. mine would do that when the large 40pin cable wasn't attached to the LCD controller board. I would plug in the cable and it would show a black screen with "no signal"... meaning it worked like it should. if you have a fully functioning 40 pin cable and a fully working LCD, then there's something wrong with your controller board.

          the lights for the backlight to the best of my knowledge is another connector. it's got a pink and a white wire and a white 2pin connector. it comes off the LCD controller board. so that's good news and bad news... something on the LCD controller board is doing its job. bad news, it's irrelevant. i've never heard of being able to chop the board in half and fix stuff. maybe soldering a new resistor or something small...but usually you just replace boards as a whole.

          try plugging in the other board (the one with the broken "spool") double check your connections on the board and the monitor (with regard to the 40 pin cable) and see if that works.

          if it doesn't, you have 2 dead LCD controller boards. i'm sure if you can get schematics for the controller board (or even know what they came out of in the case of the mystery one) then you can start testing and find out why they're not working. i couldn't possibly imagine how it would be worth it to do it that way (as i've never seen schematics for those boards let alone testing procedures). maybe you can get lucky and spot something that's burned out. then maybe you can get even luckier and digi-key might have a replacement. then you can have a working one.

          "The PCB with the broken spool, I was told by the previous owner it worked fine on his LCD, and my LCD that he gave me works fine on his PCB Controller." -if you believe that 1000%, then your cable is damaged. you did say tho, that you had that replaced too. so something's not right....on second read, if the screen works fine on his LCD controller, then your LCD controller is shot. or your cable.


          anything else?

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          • #6
            Thanks so far, your info has been helpful. I am starting to belive that the unknown controler is a 629... why? because if that board is working to light up the lcd, it is possibly trying to put out signal through the 40pin ribbon cable, but I found out that for that board, a 40 pin xenarc cable is required... because its reversed pins. not the lilli cable that has pins on the same side. So I'm going to try that out first, and if that doesn't work, I'm just going to order a new screen.
            1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
            ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
            RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

            Comment


            • #7
              it's hard to be able to help when even you're not sure what you're staring at... it took me a couple of tries to figure out the orientation of my cables.....

              post a pic of what's "unspooled" on that 619 controller, maybe it's something fixable... in the meantime, get a xenarc cable and try the unknown one... maybe something will work.

              Comment


              • #8
                yeah, I know. I've played with the ribbon cable a billion times. I tried both directions and I played with the cable by puting it in and out and moving it around. still nothing. I did get the screen to flicker a little... but I think its the pins on the connector.
                1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
                ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
                RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

                Comment

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