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Datalux displays (putting all our info in one place!)

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  • Datalux displays (putting all our info in one place!)


    I have recently purchased an LMV10R and it's great, but very dim due to old age (and it probably wasn't all that bright to start with). Browsing through the various Datalux related posts on here it seems like a lot of people are in my position. I've seen a lot of questions, and not many answers posted. So I thought it would be nice to get one thread going to collect all the information people have come up with regarding these displays.

    Anyone who's willing should post any concrete information they have (things like: "I have used my LP104V1 panel, removed from an LM10R display with such and such other controller and it works", not things like: "I heard that Datalux monitors are too dim for cars") and where/how they came up with it.

    So, I'm working with Jon Christian of Datalux to try and come up with an "upgrade path" for my display, and here's the info I have gathered from him so far...

    Most (if not all) of their 10.4" displays use their M1023 VGA controller card.

    The M1023 has undergone numerous revisions. Rev A - E are for 5 volt panels. Rev F and G are for 3.3 volt panels. Rev H and up have a 3.3/5 volt jumper.

    The LMV10R is a 100 nit display, but as they aren't manufactured anymore, most of them will be 5 to 7 years old. This means that unless they were never used, they are probably far below 100 nits now. Jon says that most of the LMV10Rs they receive for servicing these days only measure about 40 nits!

    My LMV10R has an LG LP104V1 panel in it (this may not be true for all LMV10R displays). My controller card is an M1023 Rev. E.

    I am working with Jon right now to find out which, if any, panels will work as direct placements for mine. Does anyone have the datsheet (ie. signal timing info and what not) for the LP104V1? I have been unable to locate it.

  • #2
    Here's some more information directly from Jon Christian of Datalux...

    The Sharp LQ10D367 panel is what Datalux uses to "upgrade" old LMV10R displays. It is a direct replacement for the LP104V1 that I have in my display with no custom wiring required. In addition, while the LQ10D367 normally uses a slightly higher current backlight inverter then the LP104V1, it should work well with very little effect on the brightness of the display using the inverter that the LP104V1 used.

    My next task is to try to find out if the LQ104V1DG11 would also work as a direct drop in replacement for me. SuperMatty claims in this post that it works for the LMV10R2 models, but he doesn't mention his source of information on that, and I don't know what hardware exists in an LMV10R2. Care to comment on this SuperMatty?


    • #3
      Ok, I've finally gotten the specifications for both the LQ10D367 and the LQ104V1DG11. It *appears* that they both have an identical interface. The pinout and signal timing specifications are the same as far as I can tell. In fact, other then a few bits relating to the backlight (which is of course much brighter in the newer panel), both of the 18 page documents seem to match up word for word in most places! I'm going to try to get one of these and I will post my results here if I ever find one...


      • #4

        You know, I could have answered this question based on experimentation yesterday, but unfortunately my LQ104V1DG11 that I purchased from e-bay had a very deep scratch in it and the dealer is sending me a replacement today. Claylong says that the Datalux controller in the LMV10R2 is the same as the Allen controller, and the Allen controller is known to work with the LQ104V1DG11 so I assumed it would be a drop in replacement but I have not investigated this. Additionally, I just purchased a screen, allen controller, and backlight from a member of this forum, so I will compare the Allen controller he sends me with the supposed one inside of my Datalux and let you all know if they are the same or not and post pics. That kit may not arrive for about a week though.


        • #5
          Do you know if this dealer has any more for sale? Are they used or new? And how much are they?

          As I mentioned above, my guess is that the LQ104V1DG11 *will* work with *most* Datalux controllers. However, as I said, the M1023 controller card went through many revisions. Since the LQ104V1DG11 is a 5v panel, it will *not* work with revisions F and G. Or at least, it won't work well with them... At any rate, it will say right on your board which rev you have.

          As for the "drop in replacement" part... That I'm not so sure about. The thing about the M1023 (at least the one I have) is that it does not have a cable connector to go to the panel. It plugs *directly* into the panel. Maybe this "allen's controller" has been modified, I'm not familiar with the "highrose" format... So some "wiring" may be necessary, but it should be trivial.


          • #6

            You know...after thinking for awhile after reading what you said here, I think I was able to put it all together. I had a LMV10R previously and if I remember correctly, Jon Christian said that the display was a 5V screen. If its also true that my old LMV10R had a 5V controller (which is what we would have needed to work with the LQ104V1DG11) then I think we should start looking for a different screen. My old LMV10R monitor was a pain in the ***. Only SOME video cards would work with it, and you could not extent the cable beyond 3 feet without using a VGA amplifier device. If this was a characteristic of that 5V datalux controller, then we would definitely be suited much better off without it. Can you confirm for certain if a 3.3V controller definitely won't power a supposedly 5V screen like the LQ104V1DG11?


            • #7
              The LMV10R has used more then one TFT over the course of its lifetime. The one I have came with an LP104V1, which *is* a 5v TFT. Again, the LMV10R has used more then one VGA controller over the course of its lifetime as well. Some of them are 5v, some are 3.3v, and some are configurable.

              I'm not sure I follow your reasoning in the rest of your message, I guess I'm just not sure what you're trying to get at...? At any rate, to answer your final question...

              Each component will have its own exact specifications, but a typical 5v TTL signal tolerance would be:

              low = 0.0v - 0.4v
              high = 2.4v - 5.0v

              low = -0.3v - 0.8v
              high = 2.0v - 5.3v

              I'm not sure about 3.3v systems. They're probably 3.3v CMOS signals which would give you the following typical tolerances:

              low = 0.0v
              high = 3.3v

              low = -0.3v - 0.99v
              high = 2.31v - 3.6v

              Now to answer the question: Can a 3.3v controller drive a 5v TFT? First off, you'd have to splice the cable to feed the TFT a 5v rail, but more importantly, will the data lines drive it? Based on the above assumptions, I'd say it would *probably* work.


              • #8
                remove touchscreen??

                The LQ104V1DG11 will not fit in a Datalux housing as I just found out 30 secs ago. So anyone know how to remove the touchscreen from the Datalux housing???


                • #9
                  Oops, sorry, I could have told you that. The LQ104V1DG11 is wider then the LP104V1.

                  The Datalux touch screen is simply glued onto the front of the frame.

                  1) Remove the back plate.
                  2) Remove the VGA controller.
                  3) Remove the backlight inverter.
                  4) Remove the TFT.
                  5) Apply a gentle pressure to the edges of the touch screen from behind.
                  6) Work your way around it until the glue starts to loosen and you can push it out of the housing.


                  • #10
                    my datalux has got to be a few years old. it is bright enough inside but i've never tried it outside. i am just starting my install so i should be trying it outside soon. how is it working for you guys during the daytime?

                    check out my install progress. link in sig
                    99.9% complete.



                    • #11
                      Oh...and something else. It was said that Datalux displays don't have a hirose cable and are just snap together. However, my LMV10R2 that I took apart yesterday had a hirose ribbon cable going from the controller to the screen. It looks almost just like the other 2 hirose cables I have except its shorter and the wires are attached together. (like an IDE cable that is not rounded).


                      • #12

                        I put my touchscreen housing in the freezer last night as advised by allenrubble and when I went to push it out today. It started coming out great, but when I went to push out the third corner. SMASH. It spiderweb-cracked all over.

                        UPDATE: I had a 2nd touchscreen here so I successfully removed that one from its housing, with no freezer or anything so apparently putting them in the freezer dosen't help much if at all.

                        UPDATE 2: The 2nd touchscreen here does not have little white dots all over it and when I looked at the controller that came with it, it's got a capacitive jumper configuration? Is there any way to tell if this screen is capacitive for sure? Because if it is.....DEAR GOD...anyone see that new movie SIGNS?

                        UPDATE 3: The new touchscreen does not have the brightness and contrast controls on the outside as the broken one does. It appears I won't be able to easily adjust the contrast of the screen...only the brightness using ia pot with my backlight inverter.

                        UPDATE 4: For all of you who ever decide to call Datalux, Jon Christian always seemed like a nice helpful guy until today when he told me if I put a smaller voltage over a load, it will compensate by sending higher current. Hmm...that seems to obey current = voltage/load real well I think. So I will no longer be taking any advice from him, and instead i'll be talking to Ron Kincer or Allen Ruble.


                        • #13
                          defference between Rev C & Rev E

                          i was wondering if anyone knows what the difference is between the rev c and the rev e controllers. i know that they are both for 5v screens, but what other differences are there?

                          Someone has offered me a Rev C, but I am not sure what could be different between the two.

                          Please enlighten me, as there does not seem to be any mention of rev c boards anywhere!

                          Also, how much should i be paying for a rev c?


                          • #14
                            Hey folks, I got a datalux, and Im wondering, do any of you know of a lcd my controller will work with that is *smaller* then 10.4"?
                            I cant fit a 10.4" lcd in my car, but it would be nice to use atleast the controller and touchscreen controller for something. Any ideas?

                            1995 SL stock
                            Working On: GMAT
                            Given Up On: Custom motorized lcd


                            • #15
                              Thanks to Trottingwolf I have some new info to post here. According to Trottingwolf modern 3.3v display cards *can* be made to work with the 5v Datalux TFT drivers. The way to do it is to simply use a 5v logic chip (he used a hex inverter, I used a quad AND), using the HSYNC and VSYNC as inputs it will provide 5v outputs. I have tried this MOD myself and it does work. For the *Exact* details, here's his thread->