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few questions regarding my possible carputer

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  • few questions regarding my possible carputer

    Ok, first off, i've built many desktop pc's and i've done a lot of audio upgrades in my cars. Now I want to combine both of these hobbies together just like many of you did. This is the set up i'm looking at right now.

    GIGABYTE GA-945GCM-S2C LGA 775 Intel 945GC Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
    Intel Pentium E2180 Allendale 2.0GHz 1MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor
    Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
    pqi TURBO 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE SB0570LPVP 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz PCI Interface Low-Profile Sound Card
    BU-353 Weather-proof GPS Receiver
    Centrafuse Navigation North America
    Windows XP professional SP3
    Lilliput EBY-701 7" Touch screen + Wide screen Monitor
    Alpine MRP-M500
    Alpine MRP-F250
    Polk/MOMO MM2104
    JBL Grand Touring Series GTO627

    I can get all the stuff installed but the thing that i cant seem to grasp no matter how much reading i've done is how to power the computer. I know how to hook it up but I dont know how many watts i will need. I am hoping to run the touchscreen and the computer off of the PSU. Also, I am wondering, is this computer overkill for a carputer? This is very limited to what I'm used to building.

  • #2
    Hey, after a few more days of reading I have come up with a different computer then what I first had. The specs for this one is as follows.

    Intel BLKD945GCLF2 Mini-ITX Motherboard with Integrated Atomô Processor
    M2-ATX-HV 160W Intelligent DC-DC PSU
    BU-353 Weather-proof GPS Receiver
    iGuidance v2009 4.1 Laptop, UMPC/Car PC Edition
    Roadrunner Front end
    Western Digital Caviar Blue WD800JD 80GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s
    LG Black 20X DVD+R 2MB Cache SATA 20X DVDĪR DVD Burner
    StarTech 6" 20 pin ATX Power Supply to 24 pin Motherboard Adapter
    Nippon Labs 4-Pin PC power to 2 x SATA Converter Cables Model POW-SATA-2
    Link Depot 4 Pin Power Y Cable Model POW-ADT-4PY (Just in case)
    BYTECC 18" Serial ATA-150/300 Cable w/Locking Latch Model SATA-118C X2
    WINTEC AMPO 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300)
    Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE SB0570LPVP 5.1 Channels 24-bit 96KHz
    Lilliput 629 7" VGA Touchscreen 629GL-70NP LED Backlight
    Windows XP (with Nlite if I can figure it out)

    All the amps and speakers haven't changed

    As far as the wiring goes, I plan on using 2guage wire from the battery with a 150amp inline fuse running to a distributer block that will go to the M2 ATX by a 8guage wire that has a 15 amp fuse in the block and also to my amps with a 4guage wire that has a 90amp fuse. The M2 ATX will power my Lilliput monitor along with the DVD/CD rom, 80GB HD and the PC. The 4guage wire that is going to the amps will run into another distributing block that will split it into 2 8guage wires, one will have a 60amp fuse that goes to the MPR-M500 (sub amp) while the other 8guage wire will have a 30amp fuse and will go to the MPR-F250 (4channel amp) The brown wire that is connecting the two amps together is suppose to be the remote wire for the amps. I don't like lines over lapping in wire diagrams so I had to put it like that. When I install it, I will be splicing 1 of the remote wires into the other so I will have 1 wire going to the M2 ATX for the "anti thump"

    Hopefully everyone can understand my wire diagram. If anyone spots any problems can you mind telling me? I want to play with wires only 1 time if you know what I mean.

    In the preview post option it looks like the image has lines missing, however if you click it and let it load to the bigger size, all the lines are present.


    • #3
      So no one sees any problems with my wire diagram?


      • #4
        Looks fine. Although in the diagram, it implies you will be grounding the monitor near the monitor, instead of using the ground of the power supply. Don't do that, it will create a ground loop.

        But some suggestions:

        Instead of two distro blocks chained together, get a 3-way with interchangeable connectors, like this:

        4-gauge wire would be plenty to go from the battery to the distro block. But if you want to allow room to upgrade your amps in the future, you could do a run of 1/0 gauge. Kicker HyperFlex is probably the most flexible and easy to work with, and can be had on ebay for not too much money. You can also go with KnuKonceptz KLM cable, which is cheaper, but not as flexible.


        • #5
          Good eye kross, yea I ment for the monitor to be grounded to the power supply instead of on its on ground.

          Thanks for the link to that distro block, I was trying to find one but couldn't find one that was interchangeable on the wires.

          The only reason why I had the 2guage wire was for that 2nd distro block, I was playing it safe by going down in size at each split. Now with that distro you linked me I can go back to the 4guage like I wanted at first.