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  • Thinking about building a carpc (planning stage)

    Hey guys and gals, first post here. I have been looking at building a carpc for nav and media use. I currently have a desktop pc, (p4 northwood ~2ghz or so, 512mb ram, onboard graphics, on board sound or a creative audigy gold.) For power i have a 500-600watt ups and a 400 watt cobra inverter. The only part im really lacking is the touchscreen. I have been looking for a 7" touch screen that i can mount below my ac controls in my blazer.

    My plan is to run power from the battery to the inverter then to the ups and finally to the pc. The biggest problem im facing is what to use for the hd. I build pcs and do pc repair but im not 100% if a laptop drive will stand up the the abuse of driving. If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    3.5" stand up better to road abuse than 2.5" drives.

    Don't use an inverter. It introduces noise. Use a DC-DC intelligent power supply and get auto-start capability.
    Originally posted by ghettocruzer
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
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    • #3
      What i was planning on doing was to use the cobra inverter and then hook the apc ups up to that in order to provide clean power to the pc as the pc would be running off filtered current from the ups. This would also solve the issue for turning the car on and off while the pc is on as the pc will be running straight from the ups when the car is powered off. If this will not provide clean power then i guess ill have to get a dc/dc later on when i get the cash. Thanks for the help.

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      • #4
        As a general rule, UPS & inverter don't play nice together.
        Never mind the bulk of those two pieces.

        You can get an M2 for around 65 bucks that will power a wide range of systems.
        Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
        How about the Wiki?



        Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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        • #5
          Not to mention the inefficiency of going DC to AC to DC to AC to DC.
          :boggle:
          "stop with the REINSTALLS, what do you think we got some lame-o installer!!!" - mitchjs
          RevFE
          My Shop

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          • #6
            I just saw about 35 m4-atx dc-dc go for $29 shipped on ebay.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by kingbrandont View Post
              I just saw about 35 m4-atx dc-dc go for $29 shipped on ebay.
              I wouldn't trust them.
              Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
              How about the Wiki?



              Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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              • #8
                Since you all seem to frown on the use of inverters as well as all the other results i have found it looks like ill be ordering a m4 dc/dc psu. Im going with that one because i believe the pc i will be using will require around 200w to run (around 90% load at that wattage.) That will solve the power issue. The only thing ill be left with is lcd mounting and which lcd to use. I have been looking for a 5" or 7" lcd and like the lilliput EBY701-np. In order to use it in my 2000 s10 blazer ill need to find a dash bezel out of a Oldsmobile bravada since my blazer is only 1.5 din and the bravada will be 2din which will make mounting the screen alot easier.

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                • #9
                  hmm, i thought the bravada used the same dash as the blazer...(hence a 1.5 din radio opening in each)..
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

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                  • #10
                    im a member of blazer forum and i have found info on there stating that all ill need to do is get the bezel that covers the radio and a/c controls to make it 2 din. This has to be out of either a bravada (any year with the same body as a 98+ blazer or a 2003+ blazer. The downside with the 03 + blazer is the dash bezel mounts differently so i would have to do some modifications to fit it. I will be stopping by a junk yard today to see if i can find a dash that will work.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                      3.5" stand up better to road abuse than 2.5" drives.

                      Don't use an inverter. It introduces noise. Use a DC-DC intelligent power supply and get auto-start capability.
                      this actually surprises me a bit... You would think that 2.5" drives (which are primarily in laptops) would withstand a mobile environment better than one designed to sit in a stationary desktop...

                      hrm
                      Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
                      Current author of Automotive Message Broker (AMB).
                      Works on Tizen IVI. Does not represent anyone or anything but himself.

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                      • #12
                        That really surprised me as well, i was thinking that 2.5" drives were the most robust but i guess i was wrong.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jonnyisback View Post
                          That really surprised me as well, i was thinking that 2.5" drives were the most robust but i guess i was wrong.
                          in my opinion 2.5 drives are better, in shock and heat and cold..
                          though 3.5 drives r okay but not in extreme weather.
                          just don't get a 2.5 drive with a shock protection..those drives will stop working in each and every bump on the road in order to protect the drive..

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                          • #14
                            what about just using a 16GB flash drive for booting off of and a 32GB sdhc card for storage.

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                            • #15
                              i tried a 2.5 drive..it was OK but i wanted more storage and those back then were expensive..
                              i tried a 3.5 drive...it was ok but had extreme weather problems
                              now i use a 2.5 drive 320 GB it is cheap and reliable and is the best i tried so far

                              what i wanted to do actually was get a ssd (like 32-64 GB) for boot then use a 3.5 or a 2.5 for storage...but SSD is still very expensive
                              this is my advice

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