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  • Carputer Newbi needs help with wireing!

    Ok so i have a 98 Volvo s70 GLT model and i have already purchased the parts for my carputer.
    I have already purchased the following:
    http://store.mp3car.com/Silver_Doubl.../enc-033-s.htm

    http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_7_S..._p/mon-120.htm

    http://store.mp3car.com/M4_ATX_250W_..._p/pwr-031.htm

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813500045

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103688

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231170

    All i really need to know is what gauge of wire i will need and what kind of fuses.
    Also the wires connecting from the battery to the PSU are black red and white, black being negative and red being positive and the white one is the ignition right? So do i connect the white wire to the positive on the battery as well? and will all the wires need a fuse?

    P.S. Thanks in advance
    Never accept STOCK equipment.

  • #2
    White connects to a wire that has power when the car is on and no power when the car is off. It signals the PSU to start and shutdown. If you connect it to the battery, it will turn on and stay on indefinitely.

    Fuse the + side of the wires as described in the Power FAQ's or watch the video in my link to see how it is done.
    Originally posted by ghettocruzer
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

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    • #3
      Thanks for your reply, i still would like to know what gauge of wire and what fuses i should use though.
      Never accept STOCK equipment.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have another question?
        If i connect the ignition cord to lets say a cigarette lighter + cord, this would cause the carputer to turn on with the car correct? Now if i shut the car off will this initiate the shutdown sequence in windows or just turn the computer off instantly?

        Also what would i need to know to find the gauge of wire and fuses i will need.

        When i have said wires hooked up what should a voltmeter display, so i know it wont fry my psu and mobo?
        Never accept STOCK equipment.

        Comment


        • #5
          guide to wire sizes:


          fuse above the load-- ie: a amp with a 25amp draw would mean that the power line would need something like a 30amp fuse within 12" of the battery..

          the reason behind fusing by the battery is to protect the wire, not the device--if your device does not include a fuse, one within a couple of inches of the device, rated for the device draw is a good idea.


          cig lighter power: this depends on the car-- many cars have cig lighters that stay on all the time, or stay on for a certain time after the car is off, or turn off with the ign.

          i am a big fan of connecting to the acc wire behind the radio--with all the aftermarket radios and harnesses available, it is quite possibly the most-well-documented wiring harness in the entire car, hence the easiest to locate...
          My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
          "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


          next project? subaru brz
          carpc undecided

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks!

            I much appreciate the graph soundman,
            But i cannot find the amount of load that is drawn by my motherboard. My cig lighter turns off with the ignition so i figured since the negative and positive cords are still connected to the psu the psu will still have power; thus when i turn off the car and if the white cord is plugged into the cig lighter when the car is shut down, the intelligent psu will send a signal to the motherboard telling it to shutdown correctly.



            Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
            guide to wire sizes:


            fuse above the load-- ie: a amp with a 25amp draw would mean that the power line would need something like a 30amp fuse within 12" of the battery..

            the reason behind fusing by the battery is to protect the wire, not the device--if your device does not include a fuse, one within a couple of inches of the device, rated for the device draw is a good idea.


            cig lighter power: this depends on the car-- many cars have cig lighters that stay on all the time, or stay on for a certain time after the car is off, or turn off with the ign.

            i am a big fan of connecting to the acc wire behind the radio--with all the aftermarket radios and harnesses available, it is quite possibly the most-well-documented wiring harness in the entire car, hence the easiest to locate...
            Never accept STOCK equipment.

            Comment


            • #7
              go by the max power drawn by the power supply, not the motherboard-- any power supply should be rated a little above whatever the motherboard draws, otherwise, it would result in constantly failing power supplies..

              there are plenty of online guides to determine computer component draw, it would be a good idea to check one of those for better better verification.
              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


              next project? subaru brz
              carpc undecided

              Comment


              • #8
                Here are the specs to my PSU↓

                Minimum Input Operating. voltage: 6V
                Maximum input Operating voltage: 30V (hard clamping will occur at 34 V)
                Deep-Discharge shutdown threshold: 11.2V
                Input current limit (fuse protected): mini-blade 25A
                Max Output Power: 250 Watts / 300 Watts peak
                Deep Sleep Current Consumption < 1.6mA
                Operating temperature: -40 to +65 degrees Celsius (-40F to 149F)
                Storage temperature: -40 to +125 degrees Celsius (-40F to 257F)
                MTBF: 200,000 Hrs
                Efficiency: >95%, all rails combined, 50% load
                PCB size: 120mmx93.95mm (4.9"x3.7")
                Input Connectors: M4 screw terminal
                Output Connector ATX Power: ATX Power 24 pin (Molex P/N 39-01-2200)

                So i would need a 25 amp fuse? at both ends of the wire? and what gauge of wire? 8 or 10?
                Never accept STOCK equipment.

                Comment


                • #9
                  10ga would be minimum based on the graph provided above. It's unlikely your feed wire is under 4' long so your into the yellow for 21-35 amps. Fuse as close to the battery as possible. If you plan on distributing any of that power elsewhere other than than the P/S then a small fused distribution block near the P/S would be a good idea. Otherwise just straight to the P/S. I'm sure it has a fuse inside to protect itself. All you are doing is protecting the wire from the battery.
                  My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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                  • #10
                    Thanks

                    Thank you for the straight answer Phil!

                    The only other device i have running off of the battery is a viper remote start system that Best-Buy installed, i was considering running the PSU off of the wires they already have running from my battery into my car but i don't know if that might (F) it up or not and i figured running new wires straight from the battery might be better anyway because i don't have too much faith in the work the retards do at Best-Buy, they screwed up all kinds of stuff when i had the remote start installed LOL.

                    Anyone have any opinions on my setup so far listed below, i will be using a

                    Hitachi 160 GB sata 2.5 hard drive
                    G.SKILL 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM
                    AMD Athlon II X2 240 Regor 2.8GHz Processor
                    ZOTAC GF6100-E-E AM3/AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA nForce 430 MCP Mini ITX AMD Motherboard
                    M4-ATX 250W Intelligent DC-DC PSU
                    Lilliput 7" SKD Open Frame Touch Screen VGA Monitor
                    Silver Double Din ABS Frame For Lilliput 629-GL or EYB-701

                    I haven't really decided on a case yet, i am considering turning my entire glove box into the case but i think that might become a hassle. Definitely not the trunk, i really wanted to find a case that would fit into my double din behind the monitor as the depth of my double din is about 12".
                    Never accept STOCK equipment.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i would install a 30 amp fuse.

                      in car audio, the standard for fusing is to make sure that there is a fuse within 12" of the battery.

                      as long as there is the fuse on the m4, you will not need a fuse before the m4.

                      the reason for the fuse near the battery is more to protect against the wire getting shorted in a horrific crash, in the case where the power wire gets nicked/cut/sheared, then to protect the devices down the line-- that is why the m4 has it's own fuse-- if the power supply were to fail, it's fuse should blow before the fuse on the wire..


                      cases are sometimes tough to figure out-- i just mounted my pc on a sheet of plexiglass below my passenger seat..
                      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                      next project? subaru brz
                      carpc undecided

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by knownchild View Post
                        Thank you for the straight answer Phil!

                        The only other device i have running off of the battery is a viper remote start system that Best-Buy installed, i was considering running the PSU off of the wires they already have running from my battery into my car but i don't know if that might (F) it up or not and i figured running new wires straight from the battery might be better anyway because i don't have too much faith in the work the retards do at Best-Buy, they screwed up all kinds of stuff when i had the remote start installed LOL.
                        A better reason is to be able to provide sufficient power to the PC.
                        A remote starter doesn't use a lot of power, so wires are relatively small (large AWG number).

                        Anyone have any opinions on my setup so far listed below, i will be using a

                        Hitachi 160 GB sata 2.5 hard drive
                        G.SKILL 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM
                        AMD Athlon II X2 240 Regor 2.8GHz Processor
                        ZOTAC GF6100-E-E AM3/AM2+/AM2 NVIDIA nForce 430 MCP Mini ITX AMD Motherboard
                        M4-ATX 250W Intelligent DC-DC PSU
                        Lilliput 7" SKD Open Frame Touch Screen VGA Monitor
                        Silver Double Din ABS Frame For Lilliput 629-GL or EYB-701
                        It's not the Atom-based setup that most go for. I like it for that reason alone.
                        Way to think outside the box.

                        I haven't really decided on a case yet, i am considering turning my entire glove box into the case but i think that might become a hassle. Definitely not the trunk, i really wanted to find a case that would fit into my double din behind the monitor as the depth of my double din is about 12".
                        If you're going to cram everything into your double-DIN space (which I wouldn't recommend), I suggest using an open frame that you make yourself.
                        There's no case that will really work in the tight confines of a double-DIN space.

                        Remember that airflow for cooling will be required.
                        There is also the possibility of RFI from various components interfering with your video and/or audio signals which will be magnified with everything in such close quarters. It will also make it more difficult to track down.
                        Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                        How about the Wiki?



                        Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well thanks i will keep you guys updated on the build and upload pics, also i was wondering before i hook up the psu how would one test the connection to the battery with a voltmeter and what would i be looking for on the voltmeter to ensure it is correct.
                          Never accept STOCK equipment.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by knownchild View Post
                            Well thanks i will keep you guys updated on the build and upload pics, also i was wondering before i hook up the psu how would one test the connection to the battery with a voltmeter and what would i be looking for on the voltmeter to ensure it is correct.
                            you mean to make sure that you are connecting the correct wire to the correct terminal on the battery?
                            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                            next project? subaru brz
                            carpc undecided

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              no to ensure the volts and amps are correct.
                              Never accept STOCK equipment.

                              Comment

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