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  • Power Consumption for HDD and RAM

    Hello All,

    Just curious, im considering running high speed memory in my car pc... 2GB of 5400 or faster.
    Also planning on running a 160gb or more, 2.5" SATA HDD (roughly 7200rpm).

    Will this be ok, or will it consume too much power?
    I'll be running the M2-ATX PSU.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    That should be ok. I'm running 4gb ram, 60gb ssd, 7" lilliput all from an m2-atx. Ram uses less than 2W per stick. HD should take less than 10W. M2-ATX delivers 96W along the 12V rail - unless your mobo/CPU is a power beast, you'll be fine.

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    • #3
      No problem. I'm running an Intel i3, 4gb DDR3 1066, 128gb SSD, 500gb 2.5 HD and 10 USB devices and have been for nearly 2 years on a M2-ATX. Bulletproof and rock solid.

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      • #4
        it really depends on the other hardware your using...

        for most hardware, as the others said, it should work. and while vegasguys i3 works with a a m2, i would really prefer to see a little more headroom on teh power supply side of things for hardware like that. personally, i run a dsatx with a pentium dual core-- socket 775 board..
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

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        • #5
          Disclaimer: The following discussion is just for fun, since nobody (well almost nobody) makes system efficiency a deciding factor in their carPC build decisions.

          This is the tag line to an article on Tom's Hardware comparing Atom-based systems to an i3-based system:

          Our H55 test system with Core i3-530 was many times faster and much more efficient than the Atoms.

          The complete article is here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...atom,2616.html

          The M2-ATX is rated at 169.9 watts. The max load of the H55 i3 board was 80watts, a 2x overhead. Now whether this is particularly relevant to the typical carPC usage scenario is debatable. The Atom systems are certainly going to draw less power than the i3 at idle, but neither system is going to come near to overtaxing a M2-ATX. And if it's at idle, it's not doing anything, so what's the point? It's always fun to play numbers games and compare specs, but in any meaningful comparison of real-world usage, the i3 will drastically out perform any atom-based system without a drastic increase in required power.

          So there you go. Some raw meat for your chewing pleasure. Enjoy!

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          • #6
            VegasGuy, very interesting read. Power used to complete a task is very revealing. I found this when I measured the current consumed by the system running everything that I was planning to use. It barely changed above idle. Highest peak I have seen is around 6 amperes for a second or so at boot.

            Running everything has it drawing between 36 to 45 watts with the highest peak at boot around 75 watts and that’s the complete system measured at the 12v line to the PSU. My sig has the MB and processor spec. In my case at least, I think my choice of M4 may have been overkill. I should have built the system first and measured it.
            Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

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            • #7
              Very good read. Now im considering the i3!
              What operating system and car pc software are you running? Also, what is your boot times?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by The Shane View Post
                Very good read. Now im considering the i3!
                What operating system and car pc software are you running? Also, what is your boot times?
                Win7 Ultimate and Centrafuse 3.5 for me. Boot times are a popular subject around here, and you'll see claims all over the place. From a cold start, I'd say I'm usualy playing music in under a minute. POST on my particular board takes about 10-15 seconds. From hibernation, it's about 10 sec after POST. The thing about hibernation is making sure that all your peripherals are up and running can be a real pain. I have 12 USB devices attached and I rarely see all 12 of them up before the system has reloaded from hibernation. This can cause some problems when you try to access the device before windows or your carPC software has had a chance to initialize its connection to the device.

                But this all comes back to prioritizing what you want out of the carPC experience.
                • There is no carPC/OS/FrontEnd combo on the market that can boot as fast, offer the features, ease of install and reliability of a good all-in-one head unit. Plug it in, turn it on and go is NOT a major selling point of most installs. But you already know that, right?
                • If you want everything on the box to be responsible to you, then there are some open source hardware and software initiatives that will provide you with the necessary tools, but it's almost totally DIY. Open Mobile is doing some nice things in this arena.
                • Do you like lots of individual customization, but don't have a strong programming background or want to learn? RR is very popular and has a lot of supporters.
                • Prefer something a little easier to install, with a lot of 3rd-party app suppport. Centrafuse might be a good choice.

                Bottom line: figuring out what you MUST have, would LIKE to have and don't care about BEFORE you build will probably save you a lot of time and money. mp3Car is a great resource for research on the subject. As always, do your best to seperate opinion from fact. I have a lot of fun tinkering with my system, but it's also worked consistently for almost 2 years now.

                Enjoy!

                VegasGuy

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                • #9
                  Every word from VegasGuy x 2.

                  I also run Win7 64bit and 8 USB devices. Main difference with mine is an SSD drive so I donít use Hibernate, I use Suspend to RAM. Post time is the same as VegasGuy but boot time from cold start is around 35 to 38 seconds with that time reduction virtue of the SSD. Not all SSDís are created equal and not all motherboards or OSís may get the full performance gains from then. A standard drive takes cold boot to just over a minute.

                  Boot time on wake up from STR is around 1.5 seconds with 0.5 seconds for the start-up delay from the PSU taking total time from turning the ignition on to everything running a fraction over 2 seconds. However as VegasGuy said, problems with any USB device or Software (as the system suspends/resumes) will ruin the whole process on wake up. Also as stated above, USB devices not initialised quickly enough is a niggling annoyance as some can work most of the time and then fail at the most inconvenient time. Thatís where the experimentation begins and frustration can come in. It takes time and perseverance to find a Frontend, software and hardware devices that work together the way you hoped for. I run my own front end and hardware (except for GPS and DAB radio devices) it may not have the features or be as pretty as most Frontends around but it works for me.

                  Iím getting older so I need to work to the old rule of K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple, stupid)

                  Best of luck.
                  Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

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                  • #10
                    Well defo going to install a car-pc... the only thing that I wont like is the 30-60 wait for music.
                    I may leave a seperate single din headunit wired in the glove box or something along those lines for now...

                    Obviously going to be a long project getting things how I want, but defo proving to be a worthwhile one.

                    Really appreciated your comments.

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                    • #11
                      Get the right MB, Hardware, Software and installation and you can reduce 30 to 60 seconds down to around 2 seconds. I usually have one wait of 35 seconds at the first boot of the day. If I drove the car every day I would change that to one cold boot once a week, every other start-up would be 2 seconds. I often have had this setup go in and out of STR over 27 times over 48 hours and it never missed a beat.

                      Best of luck with your project, about half way through you may begin to wonder why you ever started, but work through the frustration barrier and it eventually gets better, I think, or is that because we never really finish? Seems like there is always something new to try, add or modify
                      Last edited by Mickz; 04-05-2011, 05:15 PM.
                      Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

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                      • #12
                        Lol Thanks for your response mate!
                        I'll keep you updated with my progress.

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