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  • Need Quick help putting together a CarPC!

    Installing a CarPC has been on my list of TO DO for quite some time but recently it has jumped to #1!

    My car (2006 Acura TL) is already gutted and ready to go from my Viper 5902 Install so I figured I might as well move right into the CarPC while all my car wiring in fresh in my mind. The problem is while I've been lurking here for awhile and researching here and there I don't have a definitive list of items mapped out ready to order. (THe goal is to get at least the computer & necessary hookups ordered tomorrow or Friday, I have have a 4 day weekend next week to dedicate to this project which doesn't happen too often).

    This is what I have so far..

    First I plan to integrate into my factory Navi through the use of a RGB converter (Scan Do 800) and also tap into my existing resistive touch panel. I already have these components & know how to achieve both these goals.

    My CarPC will be windows based (win 7 probably) and used mainly for music & navigation , probably not too much video. I would also like to get OBD readouts & possibly some DVR recording with a USB camera.

    What I really need help with is choosing the computer components. I'm good with electronics but have never built a computer from scratch. Unless there is a decent priced ready to go CarpC I might consider this as an option too, any suggestions on this route?

    Right now I've been looking toward the ASRock E350M1 AMD E-350 from reading a few reviews it seems to be a pretty good mother board. After that I know I still need the basic components like the ram (2 gig should be ok ) & a Hard Drive. Would it be worth it to use a smaller SSD for the OS for faster boot times and a larger external for media?

    Ok so first back to a previous question , are there any prebuilt systems worth getting without getting robbed?
    http://www.mo-co-so.com/Mini-ITX-Car...puting-s/3.htm

    If not here is my list I need help fill in;

    Main parts I'd like to get ordered tomorrow..

    Mother Board/CPU: ASRock E350M1 AMD E-350
    Memory: 2 gigs DDR3 (recommended sites?)
    Hard Drive: SSD for OS & external for media?? TBD
    Case: Not sure here ?
    Power Supply: No idea?
    WiFi: ?? Would like to connect from my garage to home network for updating so I want something go probably N
    GPS: BU-353 seems like it should work pretty good
    Button Interferes: Joycon EX Steering Wheel Control PC Interface looks like a good option
    Bluetooth: Not sure on this ? I have a bluetooth OBD device which I want to use, plus eventually would like to integrate my phone.

    Are there any other parts I'm missing on the computer?

    I'm sure there is plenty more but I would really just like to get the computer install itself started and run all the wiring or at least some of it.

    YOU TELL ME WHAT TO BUY AND I WILL BUY IT!! (after some quick research)

  • #2
    Mocoso used to have an Atom pre-built that wasn't a bad deal, but to be honest if I were you I'd put together my own.

    I have used the E350M1 for a few things, and it's a wonderful chipset. That being said, If you plan on running any of the big three frontends (Ride Runner/Centrafuse/OpenMobile), you're either gonna need a beefier system, or decide if you're ok with it being a bit slow to load/slow graphics.

    SSD is a must for both speed and durability. They're getting fairly cheap, especially if you go with the lower speed ones (OCZ Agility for instance vs Vertex).
    Memory: 2gigs is plenty, but if you plan to hibernate, 1gb might be faster. Not sure how win7 does it.
    Case: Mocoso's case is compact, and generally decent. I have one, and I like it.
    PSU: For the E350, a M2ATX would be more than sufficient.
    Wifi: Generally just a USB dongle would be adequate.
    GPS: Correct. I have a 353, and love it.
    Bluetooth: Random generic USB Bluetooth device should work.

    What screens are you looking at, and what kind of space do you have to work with? Can you do a double-din screen? IMO they look much nicer than any flip-out, and are generally more reliable.


    As for websites to purchase things, I use newegg.com. They're fast, and I've never had issues with them.
    "stop with the REINSTALLS, what do you think we got some lame-o installer!!!" - mitchjs
    RevFE
    My Shop

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the response!

      That does worry me about about the processor speed I would most likely use one of those front ends and the last thing I want is to have any lag in that area. What would you recommend as an alternative? I'm more then willing to pay for adequate power I just didn't realize I would have issues with lag with this processor.

      Comment


      • #4
        computer processors are just like car engines-- the smaller ones suck less energy, but at the cost of raw power..

        personally, i use a pentium dual core, though it seems as though the i3's have become a relatively common processor to turn to when the low power units like the atom or e350 don't work fast enough. those should also work with a m2 power supply.


        if possible, i would recommend trying to use a usb obd2 reader to prevent slow data--esp if your also going to be using a phone through it. though, i don't use obd2 so don't take it as the voice of experience..

        imo, 2gb ram is going to be 'just right' win7 always likes as much ram as possible, though it seems 2gb is enough to keep it snappy, and still allow decent startup/shutdown times.

        hdd-- there are many people that run that exact config-- a small ssd for OS and a secondary drive for media--and they calim that it works well for them(i run a large ssd)

        steering wheel controls--be sure to check your specific controls--the carpc joycon works by looking for different resistances for different button presses, if your car sends a digital signal, or other type of signal to the radio when the button is pressed, the carpc joycon will not work. most cars will work with it, but with you having a newer luxury-style car, it might not have it..
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
          computer processors are just like car engines-- the smaller ones suck less energy, but at the cost of raw power..

          personally, i use a pentium dual core, though it seems as though the i3's have become a relatively common processor to turn to when the low power units like the atom or e350 don't work fast enough. those should also work with a m2 power supply.


          if possible, i would recommend trying to use a usb obd2 reader to prevent slow data--esp if your also going to be using a phone through it. though, i don't use obd2 so don't take it as the voice of experience..

          imo, 2gb ram is going to be 'just right' win7 always likes as much ram as possible, though it seems 2gb is enough to keep it snappy, and still allow decent startup/shutdown times.

          hdd-- there are many people that run that exact config-- a small ssd for OS and a secondary drive for media--and they calim that it works well for them(i run a large ssd)

          steering wheel controls--be sure to check your specific controls--the carpc joycon works by looking for different resistances for different button presses, if your car sends a digital signal, or other type of signal to the radio when the button is pressed, the carpc joycon will not work. most cars will work with it, but with you having a newer luxury-style car, it might not have it..
          Any specific boards with the i3 you might recommend? Also I know for at least some of the buttons that control my climate control there two wires, one is ground which grounds the other wire when the button is pressed. Would that be considered a resistive system?

          Comment


          • #6
            If you plan to use a USB Web Cam at a decent resolution then you will need an i3 processor.

            An i3 or later CPU can easily run at low power with low CPU usage, but a Hi Res Webcam will push CPU usage up. Single Web Cam – Hi-def @ 30FPS with the right codec and recorder program can (as in its possible) run as low as 25% CPU with all other tasks running. That’s roughly 35 to 48 watts but it depends on MB, camera, codec’s, running software and system configuration. The i3 in my system handle’s two Hi-Def webcam for drive recording.

            I feel you need a larger HDD for serious Web cam recording. A SATA laptop drive around 300 to 500GB is ideal if you plan on recording hours full of High quality video and keeping recorded data for any length of time before auto overwrites kick in. I like a securely mounted 2.5” HDD for Web-Cam drive recording and I plug in a USB3 external drive to quickly transfer video when needed.

            Once again it depends on how you intend to use the system now and in the future.

            Totally agree with 2GB ram and an SSD for OS and FE. I run 4GB and it makes no difference to my setup but adds about a second to resume from hibernate.

            No, I don't think the climate controlls are resistive.
            Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey Mickz I actually spend about 2 hours reading through your build thread last night! Nice work indeed!

              I definitely want to get all the PC I can without drawing too much power so it sounds like the i3 is the way to go.

              However to be honest I will be using my stock screen which is definitely not HD.

              Also I am really leaning toward a stand alone unit for the DVR/Camera such as this unit HERE. Not only does this unit have a camera designed to capture the whole road "fisheye" I can easily tie this camera into my car alarm. I plan to have the camera turn on and start recording when when the Warn away/Alarm is triggered.

              ..But in the future you never know I might want to upgrade my monitor and start logging DVR data through the PC in addition to the stand alone.

              Anyways I need to focus! I want to order at least some of this tonight!

              I found this all in one, I don't have individual pricing to add up the difference but this seems like a decent price maybe?
              http://www.mo-co-so.com/product-p/mcs-cbs-int-i3t.htm No SSD but pretty good specs it seems? Whats the up charge on the pre assembly you think?

              Also I wanted to add a small second battery and after reading your thread I might just follow your layout and build the circuit you did HERE
              Which reminds me, you insist on using 56a cable can you specify the gauge ? What is that typically 7-8 gauge? Also any additional information on the second battery.
              If I could get away with something from allelectronics that would be nice I order from here all the time! LINK

              P.S. you don't have a PCB layout for that battery circuit do you? Something ready to print for etching?


              Thanks for your help everyone! I hope I can come to a conclusion on something. Post links if you can to any recommended i3 motherboards

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes I looked at a dedicated Drive recorder, just didn’t have the funds to go that way. Hi def Web Cam cost $46 each One front and one rear.

                The unit looks fine; you can always go SSD later for a faster boot if needed.

                The battery was an off the shelf unit from Jaycar. It’s a 26Ah low profile that fits inside the spare wheel on a quick release platform with tie-downs. Don’t have a PCB. It’s made on two small pieces of prototype board also from Jaycar and almost everywhere. Just drop a note on my build if you decide to go with it and I’ll give details of the unit, a simple construction method and a full how it works description of the unit if needed.

                To be honest you can run without an AUX battery but for overnight/all day sleep times with a lot of USB devices its great and in my case it also gave me the ultimate system stability I was aiming for.

                Yes 8 gauge minimum but if I was starting over I would have run two 4G cables from the battery to the trunk distribution point.

                Good luck with the build.
                Last edited by Mickz; 11-04-2011, 04:23 AM.
                Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

                Comment


                • #9
                  mickz summed it up well.

                  i don't believe that the markup is very high on that mo-co-so deal--and i always had a good level of support when dealing with them so be sure to take the support into consideration as well. though, i am very picky on mo.bo. brands and will not use anything other then asus/zotac, gigabyte, or msi. i have not had good luck with intel boards or their support..
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well I couldn't pull the trigger on anything There are just too many options and I'm not quite sure which one to go with

                    Hey Mickz I forgot to ask you have a honda whats your take on the GA-NET+? Its intriguing but the high cost, lack of info, & russian origin kind of scares me away.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I looked at GA-NET a year ago but the price also put me off. Apparently it does give you access to a lot of onboard systems, but with different country versions of the same vehicle I couldn’t be sure what I wanted to access was available. Someone reminded me of it recently on my project page. In my case it would not have solved the problem of relocating the HVAC control PCB and maintaining both “standalone” manual control and independent PC SW control over dual com links which I accomplished for a cost of around $70 in parts.

                      I have a low cost CAN-BUS interface and some software to monitor communications across the BUS, when I get some time I’ll see what I can access, control and use on this vehicle.

                      As far as MB’s go, the one I’m using is strong and beautifully made. The only downside is the 12 to 14 second POST time before the OS starts to load. Of course that’s not a problem if resuming from sleep.
                      Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        “However to be honest I will be using my stock screen which is definitely not HD. I plan to have the camera turn on and start recording when when the Warn away/Alarm is triggered.”

                        Hi, just so were on the same page with a HI-DEF web cam. It has little to do with the resolution of the LCD screen in the vehicle and everything to do with the ability to recognise number plates and fine detail in the recordings. In my tests I found I needed to be recording at HD with a good frame rate for that, hence the need for a 300GB+ 2.5” HDD especially with front and rear cameras recording together. I thought about a recording trigger but in the end continuously running seems to be the only way I can think of to catch “everything” that may lead to an accident event. One reason I like the rear camera as so many come from behind these days, people texting, playing with Car-PC screens, you know

                        BTW it looks cool on playback with forward and rear cameras displaying in sync. Almost like a video game.
                        Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mickz View Post
                          “However to be honest I will be using my stock screen which is definitely not HD. I plan to have the camera turn on and start recording when when the Warn away/Alarm is triggered.”

                          Hi, just so were on the same page with a HI-DEF web cam. It has little to do with the resolution of the LCD screen in the vehicle and everything to do with the ability to recognise number plates and fine detail in the recordings. In my tests I found I needed to be recording at HD with a good frame rate for that, hence the need for a 300GB+ 2.5” HDD especially with front and rear cameras recording together. I thought about a recording trigger but in the end continuously running seems to be the only way I can think of to catch “everything” that may lead to an accident event. One reason I like the rear camera as so many come from behind these days, people texting, playing with Car-PC screens, you know

                          BTW it looks cool on playback with forward and rear cameras displaying in sync. Almost like a video game.


                          Mickz,

                          What recording program are you running? I was trying to do exactly this with Mark's (Vegasguy) DashCam but I could never get it working. He [Mark] is incredibly supportive and helpful and the program looks great but it just doesn't like my set-up (most likely a codec issue or something similar). I've been looking at MiniCam and GPSDVR but haven't installed anything yet since I'm spending all my free time just trying to get my hardware build finished.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here is a system that will run Win7/8 without an issue and due to the SSD will stand up to the harsh car enviorment.


                            ASUS AT5IONT-I Intel Atom D525 (1.8GHz, dual-core) BGA559 Intel NM10 Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU Combo
                            Zalman N Series SSD0064N1 2.5" 64GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
                            Kingston 2GB 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 800 Unbuffered System Specific Memory Model KVR800D3S8S6/2G

                            I have had great luck with my Opus power supply and case, but I cant find the case for sale any more. Anyways here is the power supply
                            DCX3.120 (120W)

                            GPS reciver
                            BU-353 Weather-proof GPS Receiver

                            SirrusXM reciver
                            MJS-SC-C1 USB Interface for Sirius Satalite Radio (Mjs-scc1)
                            Sirius Receiver

                            FM/HD reciver
                            HD Radio USB PC Interface
                            HD Radio Reciver(•Visteon HDZ300 - Ebay has deals on this tuner, in most cases < $75.00)

                            I hope this helps.
                            06 Galaxy Gray Si #0308
                            CarPc Progress -
                            10%---------50%---------100%
                            -[XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX]-

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by shizzlehappens View Post
                              Mickz,

                              What recording program are you running? I was trying to do exactly this with Mark's (Vegasguy) DashCam but I could never get it working. He [Mark] is incredibly supportive and helpful and the program looks great but it just doesn't like my set-up (most likely a codec issue or something similar). I've been looking at MiniCam and GPSDVR but haven't installed anything yet since I'm spending all my free time just trying to get my hardware build finished.
                              Hi, using MiniCam - Never failed yet, some 2 and 3 day driving trips with 10 hours a day driving and a mixture of full time and on-demand recording. Multiple cameras processes embedded into my FE and controlled from the main FE rotary encoder for manual control of Record, Stop, Open, Close or fully automatic.

                              Currently overlaying OBDII speed as Win7-64 does not support the GPS overlay app.
                              Palm sized ainol MiniPC, 8" Transreflective PRO, Win10, Reverse camera, Dual 10HZ GPS RX's for Speed Display & Sat Nav, FM-DAB & Phone Modules, iDrive interface. T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, microcode and FE.

                              Comment

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