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  • BMW 330ci Planning

    I went down to BMW today to order my new BMW 330ci, it's going to take a few months to get here, so I'm in the process of planning my carputer.

    I have a $5000 budget set out for this, here's what I would like to do.

    Install a top of the line computer in the trunk, have an amazing system in the car and also have a nice LCD in the dash. I want everything including GPS, Radio....EVERYTHING

    I figure most of the money will go to the system, but I am curious as to how I should wire it. Like I know how to install a car system complete with subs, I've done it on my Maxima, but I am curious as to how I can get the best connection from the computer to the system? I want to do Kenwood for all the audio components.

    For the audio I'm thinking 2 subs, amp, and replace all the stock speakers with top of the line kenwoods.

    What do you guys think I should do for the system? What about the lcd? Any kiosk software that intregrates radio, cd, mp3 and gps?

    Any help would be great.

    -Thanks

  • #2
    Dude, don't want to sound like a hater but, $5K is a lot of $ to spend on all this stuff. Most people get by by spending less than 1/5 that amount and end up with a kick-*** complete carputer system. As far as audio is concerned, you could spend the rest of it on buying mb quart components and getting thigs custom fabbed for your dash but, again, is it worth it?

    Anyways, read up on this board for tons of ideas (esp. those who have done systems with E46's) and good luck.

    -HD

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    • #3
      $35k is a lot to spend on a car. What's your point? Someone wants to live richly, don't stop em, fuel the economy.

      I would recommend a dual battery setup, with a larger battery in the trunk, battery isolator. $5k means you're just going to go all out. Connect the computer directly to the battery's positive and negative terminals for the best sound and least chance of ground loops.

      Get a couple rockford amplifiers, one for speakers, one for subs. Two 12" woofers should do you right. System, with speakers, woofers, and two amplifiers, should cost less than $1k to sound incredibly awesome.

      Computer should be linked to the diagnostics system, WiFi, GPS. For the GPS, throw in a wifi amplifier for about $300 and a couple antennas.

      I still haven't even gotten close to $5k yet.

      For the ultimate set up, get a computer controlled fuel chip. Rev your engine with the push of a button.

      Also, go for a relay control to control all the heater functions. Maybe some lights too.
      Audio Rockford Fosgate: 900 Watt 4-channel amp, 501bd Mono amp
      Computer AMD 2400+ XP, 1 GB DDR RAM, Orbit Micro 250W DC-DC PSU

      Head units are for cheaters!
      sure some girls fake orgasms.....but it's guys like me who fake the whole relationship

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      • #4
        I agree with lgbr... The subs/amps should be about 1000 bucks. The mids/tweets/amp should add another 1000. I'm thinking Kicker, just cause I'm a Kicker loyalist, but Rockford is in the same tier. That's only 2G for some good ****. The computer could cost about 1000 bucks. Tack on maybe another 1000 for your electrical connections (wire, caps, blocks, batts, etc...) and any fab work (custom dash, new kick pods, sub boxes, etc...) Now you're up to 4G. Sounds good?

        The 'kiosk' software is abundantly available for free. So is most of the information you're going to need. You'll get better answers if you ask more specific questions. Look at all the posts relevant to what you're doing first. Some one else has already asked the same questions you're going to ask.

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        • #5
          Ok, I just dropped $37,000 on a car you think I'm going to skimp on the good stuff? I'm curious as to what's the best setup to connect the computer to the car stereo?

          Comment


          • #6
            personal experience!!!!
            Alpine PXA-H900... Optical (toslink) inputs + RCA inputs... AND 11 outpus Channels!!
            But, around $3800-$4000 only for the processor..

            There's also the option of PXA-H700...

            http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/...=160&p_main=10

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            • #7
              you paid $37K for a BMW 3-series?? Hope that propeller badge was worth it. Did you check out the G35, since you used to have a Maxima?? Or is BMW just a 'better' brand?? I'm guessing Kenwood components are better too.

              For $5K, give Mark Levinson a call...
              My first carPC!
              MP3/CD player
              Celeron 633MHz - 10GB Seagate - 64MB PC100 - Win XP

              Soon to actually find its way into the car!

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              • #8
                If price is not an issue I would use MB Quartz speakers around the car. 2 kicker solo baric subs (10" L7s) definatley a Fosgate or JBL 1000 watt mono amp I went with a Carion Crossover ($100 bucks) but works great Fosgate has a very nice uit for about $900. Get a 800 watt amp for all internal speakers (more power than you will need) but at the lower power range they will provide very clear mids and highs.

                There are alot of great carpc setups on this site I am sure you will want to research and come up with your own ultimate platform. A puter is a very personal thing.

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                • #9
                  if i was buyin an half decent bmw why did u just not upgrade the sound system as standard

                  summit really good like Harman Karden
                  VIA EPIA TC 10000 1Ghz Motherboard,
                  256Ram,40Gig,
                  Lilliput 7" Touchscreen

                  ALL ABOVE NEEDS SELLING !
                  OFFERS WELCOME


                  2008 Astra H Sportive SE 1.9 CDTI
                  2006 Quadzilla Stinger 250e Quad Bike
                  2000 Saab 9-3 Viggen Convertible

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                  • #10
                    lol, a lot of haters on here. Actually BMW is a better brand. Obviously you've never driven the 330Ci, anway, the stock upgrades aren't very nice. I got the basic stuff that I couldn't install (moonroof, heated seats) but the rest I'm upgrading myself. The Harman Karden is awesome, but it's expensive from BMW, and I personally thing the Logic7 system is much better, never the less, I like BMW, I chose the Kenwood because I've used Kenwood for everything I've ever had. Anyway, I think I'm going to go with BasicEvil's suggestions.

                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Spending Money?

                      If you want a really kick-*** system, with pro-level audio, and money is (apparently) no object, try this:

                      Run 1/0 gauge to a battery in the trunk, then to a 1F capacitor, then into an Opus 150W supply (using laptop drives, which is a smart idea, means that should be enough for most any motherboard/proc you want to use). That should get you some really clean power going into the system. Also, make sure you get the turn-on lead accessory for the Opus.

                      Run DVI cable to the front of the car, then use a good DVI->VGA adapter up front to reduce monitor signal loss on the run from the trunk. You'll probably want an optical drive up front, too, so get a slot-loading DVD burner and run it off USB. Run your turn-on lead to the front, and use it to trigger a second (90W or so) power supply for the DVI->VGA adapter and the DVD drive (keep noise out of the main circuit), and maybe a USB hub for keyboards, mice, game controllers, IR remote, etc. Just make sure that the PC can boot without all the junk up front and keep the DVD drive on a separate circuit.

                      You should choose a sound card carefully. A Creative Extigy would be a good choice for PC-managed audio, or use onboard sound with digital output and just do the D/A conversion offboard. Beyond that, just make sure you get the audio equipment you want, don't skimp on cables, and you should still fall well within your budget.

                      Get a 2 or 4GB solid-state disk if you can find it in your price range. CompactFlash cards are attractive because they are cheaper, but they are lower voltage, lower current drives and can't stand up to being constantly rewritten like industrial flash disks do. This ought to cut your boot time by a lot, especially if you can hibernate to it.

                      If you are going to use WiFi in the system, I'd add it last. There's a new 802.11n standard that will be a lot faster, but it's still awaiting finalization. Anything that moves content faster will ultimately save you not only hassle, but probably battery power as well. Any time you can cut a 20 minute sync operation down to 5 minutes, is a good time.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jyopp
                        If you want a really kick-*** system, with pro-level audio, and money is (apparently) no object, try this:

                        Run 1/0 gauge to a battery in the trunk, then to a 1F capacitor, then into an Opus 150W supply (using laptop drives, which is a smart idea, means that should be enough for most any motherboard/proc you want to use). That should get you some really clean power going into the system. Also, make sure you get the turn-on lead accessory for the Opus.
                        0, or even 1 Gauge is pretty extreme! No need for that. Don't all Opus 150s come with ACC line wire???

                        Run DVI cable to the front of the car, then use a good DVI->VGA adapter up front to reduce monitor signal loss on the run from the trunk. You'll probably want an optical drive up front, too, so get a slot-loading DVD burner and run it off USB. Run your turn-on lead to the front, and use it to trigger a second (90W or so) power supply for the DVI->VGA adapter and the DVD drive (keep noise out of the main circuit), and maybe a USB hub for keyboards, mice, game controllers, IR remote, etc. Just make sure that the PC can boot without all the junk up front and keep the DVD drive on a separate circuit.
                        Can you explain why the need to go VGA>DVI>VGA? Epsecially for a (most likey) 7" LCD display?

                        Get a 2 or 4GB solid-state disk if you can find it in your price range. CompactFlash cards are attractive because they are cheaper, but they are lower voltage, lower current drives and can't stand up to being constantly rewritten like industrial flash disks do. This ought to cut your boot time by a lot, especially if you can hibernate to it.
                        Do you have any "real-life" examples? I've heard that XP (other than perhaps embedded) on a CF does not offer much advantage than a motor drive.
                        My Install Thread
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                        MKIV VW Jetta
                        How do I get sound to my car?

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                        • #13
                          Flash drives are still limited by the controller like any other drive, and data read is probably going to be on par with a 10,000rpm drive...seek times will be lower, but unless your drive is really fragmented I doubt a few 4ms seek operations will hurt anyone.

                          Basically spinning magnetic drives are superior to flash drives in all respects but operating environment range. It's not worth it to use a flash drive unless you're talking really high temperature ranges or large amounts of shock. And when it comes to shock, standard drives can be mounted well enough for almost any condition a carpc might encounter.

                          Sky-high prices and low disk sizes finish off the flash drives. Why spend thousands on a flash drive when you could be spending that money on something...anything where it would actually really matter. You can always get a better screen, amplifier, speakers, power supply, custom fiberglassing job, engine, shifter knob, rear spoiler, small island nation, whatever. You could even use that $2000 you save to buy us a supply of automotive grade AM/FM tuner chips

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