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BMW E46 Owners with DSP systems and no HU

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  • BMW E46 Owners with DSP systems and no HU

    How did you wire it? I've been told by a few that it will be a pain in the *** to use any existing equipment because of the custom speaker and amp wiring...most suggest replacing all speakers, running new wire, and buying an amp.

    I'd like to eventually replace my HU with a carputer but before I do so I want to make sure theres not an easier way to use the existing speakers...anyone have a wiring schematic or information on this?

    TIA,
    -Ed

  • #2
    Oops, posted in wrong forum. Mods, please move to newbie.

    Comment


    • #3
      for 2002+ cars you could use the OEM auxilary input, but that won't help you...

      I would ask this question to the audio experts at e46fanatics.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, I'll check it out over there.

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        • #5
          edrock, did you find this answer? I am in the middle of my project on a 2004 330i and have not started the audio side yet. I want to hear the sound quality with my carpc first before I tear out all OEM sound. Let me know if you find somthing and I will let you know as well.
          My BMW 2004 330i

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          • #6
            2003 E46 here
            I did not replace my stock headunit, but I can tell you that you're probably better off just mounting the screen to where the sunglass/ashtray area is. Unless you want to replace every audio component in your car it's probably better to just use AUX IN on the stock headunit. BTW the sound quality on mine is pretty good. Sounds just as good as the business CD player quality.

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            • #7
              Heres the best I've found:
              http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...1433274&page=2

              The link above has tons of info and pics...the following has been extracted from the link above:

              Grey ½ of connector
              Pin # 13 / Tweeter Rear Right door + * Yellow Pin # 21 / Tweeter Rear Right door - *Blue / yellow
              Pin # 12 / Tweeter Front Right - Blue / Brown Pin #20 / no connection
              Pin # 11 / Tweeter Front Right + Blue / black Pin #19 / no connection
              Pin # 10 / Switched +12v remote turn on White Pin #18 / no connection
              Pin # 9 / Head unit output Front Right + Blue / red Pin #17 / Head unit output Front Right - Brown / orange
              Pin # 8 / Head unit output Rear Right + Blue / black Pin #16 / Head unit output Rear Right - Brown / orange
              Pin # 7 / no connection Pin #15 / no connection
              Pin # 6 / no connection Pin #14 / no connection
              Pin # 5 / +12v factory amp +12v supply *Red / green
              Pin # 4 / Woofer Front Left +Blue / white
              Pin # 3 / Woofer Front Left -Blue / brown
              Pin # 2 / Woofer Rear Left +Yellow
              Pin # 1 / Woofer Rear Left -Brown

              Black ½ of connector
              Pin # 34 / Tweeter Front Left - Yellow / brown Pin # 42 / Mid Front Right door + *Green
              Pin # 33 / Tweeter Front Left + Yellow / red Pin #41 / Mid Front Right door - *Blue / green
              Pin # 32 / Tweeter Rear left door - * Yellow / brown Pin #40 / Mid Front left door + *White
              Pin # 31 / Tweeter Rear Left door + * Yellow / black Pin #39 / Mid Front left door - *Blue / white
              Pin # 30 / Head output Front left - Brown / orange Pin #38 / Head output Front Left + Yellow / red
              Pin # 29 / Head output Rear Left - Brown / orange Pin #37 / Head output Rear Left + Yellow / black
              Pin # 28 / no connection Pin #36 / no connection
              Pin # 27 / no connection Pin #35 / no connection
              Pin # 26 / DC ground factory ampBrown
              Pin # 25 / Woofer Rear Right +Blue
              Pin # 24 / Woofer Rear Right -Brown
              Pin # 23 / Woofer Front Right +Blue / Red
              Pin # 22 / Woofer Front Right -Blue / Brown

              Comment


              • #8
                great link edrock!
                My BMW 2004 330i

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                • #9
                  Thanks, I've found it really handy. That wiring diagram and the pics are awesome.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    More wiring info:
                    Stereo Info:
                    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...19&type=Stereo
                    Alarm info:
                    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...119&type=Alarm

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                    • #11
                      I see now it requires login...This info is courtesy of www.the12volt.com

                      Alarm:

                      Constant 12V+ Red/Green or Red/Blue Ignition Switch Harness
                      Starter Black/Blue Ignition Switch Harness and Green/Black at Alarm Plug
                      Ignition Green Ignition Switch Harness or Green Alarm Connector
                      Ignition 2 Purple or Purple/White Ignition Switch Harness
                      Accessory Purple or Purple/White Ignition Switch Harness or Alarm Connector
                      Tach Black Diagnostic Connector
                      Brake Switch Brown/White Brake Switch
                      Trunk Release Gray/Red (-) Switch in Dash
                      Trunk Pin White/Brown (-) Driver's Kick
                      Parking Lights Remove Switch 4th Wire from left on Ribbon Cable
                      Head Lamp Yellow Light Switch
                      Hood Pin Purple/Green (-) Module behind Glove Compartment
                      Factory Disarm Blue/Red (-) Need to Pulse after Start for Remote Start
                      Door Trigger Red/Blue (+) Module behind Glove Compartment (this Wire DIMS)
                      Door Lock White/Black (-) Pin 20 of Module behind Glove Compartment: White Box
                      Door Unlock Blue/Red (-) Pin 22 this Will Disarm Alarm Double Pulse
                      Horn Wire Brown/Red (-) Steering Column
                      Windows Up LF=Black/White, RF=Blue/Green, LR=Black/Yellow, RR=White/Yellow
                      Windows Down LF=Purple/White, RF=Yellow/Green, LR=Blue/Gray, RR=Blue/Red

                      Stereo:

                      Constant 12V+ Red/White
                      Switched 12V+ Purple/White
                      Ground Brown
                      Illumination n/a
                      Dimmer n/a
                      Antenna Trigger White
                      Antenna Rear Window, Diversity
                      Front Speakers 5 1/4" Kick Panels
                      Left Front (+) Yellow/Red
                      Left Front (-) Brown/Orange
                      Right Front (+) Black/Red
                      Right Front (-) Brown/Orange
                      Rear Speakers 4" Rear Deck
                      Left Rear (+) Yellow/Black
                      Left Rear (-) Black/Orange
                      Right Rear (+) Blue/Black
                      Right Rear (-) Brown/Orange

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I just realized I'm thinking about this all wrong...I now have a new plan.

                        I'm not real senesative to audio quality, most systems sound good to me, and adding a sub to any system seems be a good touch. I like my HK system and the only reason I would replace it would be to integrate the screen in the dash (which would require removal of the HU to fit the screen.)

                        Well I don't know why I didn't think of this before but I can easily move my HU into the glove box, which would allow me to keep my steering wheel controls, radio and CD player, speakers and existing HK setup, and still integrate the screen into my dash. I already purchased an aux adapter and installed it so that'll be my sound input (you can buy aux adapters for pre 2k2 cars also.)

                        Since I'll really only be using the HU for the aux input and radio I'll won't need access to it since I have radio and volume controls on my steering wheel.

                        If my motherboard EVER arrives from mini-itx (going on 2 weeks now) I'll start to post pictures.

                        -Ed

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                        • #13
                          edrock200: Relocating your head unit to your glovebox sounds like a great idea. One thing you may not have considered: I don't think it is possible to switch sources (cd/aux/phone/radio) via the steering wheel controls. The switching function is only possible via the head unit buttons. So this would require opening your glovebox to switch sources. Another possible problem: is the glovebox deep enough to hold the head unit? The head unit is pretty deep...

                          But this DOES sound like a really good idea...so much in fact that I am considering this in my ride now...it would get me back my volume control and bluetooth phone steering wheel buttons...

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                          • #14
                            One more thing: will the wiring harness for the head unit be long enough to reach the glovebox?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Jackboot
                              edrock200: Relocating your head unit to your glovebox sounds like a great idea. One thing you may not have considered: I don't think it is possible to switch sources (cd/aux/phone/radio) via the steering wheel controls. The switching function is only possible via the head unit buttons. So this would require opening your glovebox to switch sources. Another possible problem: is the glovebox deep enough to hold the head unit? The head unit is pretty deep...

                              But this DOES sound like a really good idea...so much in fact that I am considering this in my ride now...it would get me back my volume control and bluetooth phone steering wheel buttons...
                              Yeah I was thinking about these items today as well. I really don't plan on listening to the radio very often so I would most likely just leave it in AUX mode. However, the button has to be a simple contact switch and I could probably wire an external switches, on for the CD button and one for the FM button. I don't use Phone (will be using bluetooth) and the aux works with the CD button in my car. If I could rig up a button I might even be able to hide the unit back in the dash somewhere.

                              Otherwise it's really not a huge deal if I have to use the glovebox to change inputs as I will rarely be doing it.

                              As for the wiring harnass, I also thought about that. I know they make extensions for the antenna cable but I'll have to extend the harnass manually. As long as I do it one wire at a time I should be good. I'll post to this thread on my progress for relocating the HU.

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