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  • Tank Circuits

    Maybe I'm being a bit stupid here, but couldn't the whole tank circuit parafinalia be bypassed by using a switch to turn the pc on after you've started the car?
    Leo

    http://www.talkaudio.co.uk

    A million people can't be wrong, right?

    Well... unless they're all from the red states...

  • #2
    What if you need to refuel and need to crank the car again? that mean shuttingdown before refuel and restarting again.

    ...or what if the car stalled? No way Im shuttingdown

    Your idea will work, but not with us here because we are lazy and impatient

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    • #3
      Ah, the advantages of having the pc as a slave audio system

      I think I'll save myself a wodge of cash and use a switch
      Leo

      http://www.talkaudio.co.uk

      A million people can't be wrong, right?

      Well... unless they're all from the red states...

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      • #4
        What are u guys talking about? I dont understand!

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        • #5
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          • #6
            I did, and got 500 results. looked at some of them. and still dont know whats going on!

            but couldn't the whole tank circuit parafinalia be bypassed by using a switch to turn the pc on after you've started the car?
            I understand from this that its possible to turn on the computer by starting the car. and that can be done by doing something to the Circuit. LeoTheHamster is saying why bother and screw around with the sercet. Just connect a simple ON and OFF button to the computer.

            OKAY? but then....

            What if you need to refuel and need to crank the car again? that mean shuttingdown before refuel and restarting again.

            ...or what if the car stalled? No way Im shuttingdown
            If the computer has its own switch, and its own switch going to turn it on and off, what this has got to do with anything? (Maybe that way the computer wont get electricity?)

            See? I'm lost. I dont know whats goin on. I'm a n00b. and thats why I'm at this section of the forum

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            • #7
              A tank circuit is simply a device that is inserted into the power feed to the car computer.

              Ordinairily you connect the computer PSU to the car battery, if you take an opus PSU for example this has the ability to survive crank, i.e. when you crank and the voltage dips, the opus doesn't mind it carries on as normal.

              Other PSU's however, do mind. When you crank and the voltage dips, the PSU switches off and the computer reboots, there is where the tank circuit comes in, its like a separate "tank" of voltage.

              This separate tank of voltage comes in the form of a small seconday battery, it is isolated from the main battery for the duration of the crank and is used solely for the purpose of smoothing out the voltage dip.

              The tank can be isolated from the main battery by the use of a diode or a relay, which are the more popular methods.

              The diode approach only allows the tank battery to recieve a charge from the existing battery and alternator and will prevent the reverse flow when main battery is called upon to crank.

              The relay approach physically disconnects the supply from the main battery during crank and reconnects after crank is complete

              Both circuits are available here and are well discussed for pro's and con's of each.

              Having a switch to turn the computer on and off after crank will not solve the voltage dip problem upon crank.

              It is the near unanimous (spelling) opinion that the opus is the tool for job, it is expensive but it is better than buying twice, i.e. like what I am going to have to do.

              I bought a mains inverter and have a sepearte switch, then I discovered this board and am now saving for an opus, SO much easier and, I wouldn't mind some leg room back for my passengers
              if you can't find time to do it right, when are you gonna find time to do it over.

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              • #8
                Sounds like a very long story I dont feel like going through nor spending money over it. So if I want the computer to run while driving... will I have to go through all of this?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Fear Effect
                  Sounds like a very long story I dont feel like going through nor spending money over it.
                  uh?

                  I was explaining what a tank circuit was, it's not necessarily a process that you HAVE to go through, more of what a tank circuit IS and the ways that it can be implemented.

                  To drive with the computer on it needs to work (obviously) and the important issue which relates to this thread is that it would be desirable, but not imperative that it works throughout the crank duration.

                  You have 2 realistic options for this, opus or tank circuit.

                  If you have faith in your alternator and standard battery then you can get away with not having a tank circuit, I don't and I don't have an opus either but I realise that my 2 truck batteries are not the perfect solution and am going for a better one i.e. the opus

                  Hope that clarifies a bit

                  Cheers
                  if you can't find time to do it right, when are you gonna find time to do it over.

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                  • #10
                    I use a laptop wired directly to teh fuse box with an auto/air adapter ...has 160 gigs of space in it...sits in a port repicator under the front seat. has all the output connections a desktop would have and I turn the car off I throw it in pause with the remote and it will run for 2 hours that way...start the car and hit pause again exactly where I left off. grab the spare powersupply from the glove box undock the laptop throw a cable from the audio out to an input on a stereo anywhere even a tv..and instant party tunes. audio, media, GPS and no fuss.

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                    • #11
                      I've had a re-read of this, isn't a tank circuit basically just a split charge setup?

                      http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=54203
                      Leo

                      http://www.talkaudio.co.uk

                      A million people can't be wrong, right?

                      Well... unless they're all from the red states...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sygad

                        You have 2 realistic options for this, opus or tank circuit.

                        If you have faith in your alternator and standard battery then you can get away with not having a tank circuit, I don't and I don't have an opus either but I realise that my 2 truck batteries are not the perfect solution and am going for a better one i.e. the opus

                        Hope that clarifies a bit

                        Cheers
                        thanks for your post. to be honest with you, I know nothing about cars. so please dont get mad at me if i sounded dumb
                        I really have no idea what is alternator and I just found out for the first time evar that I can connect an extera battery to a car!
                        the carpc i'm going to build will probably need a 300W case. Thats what i've been told. And Opus dont come in 300W.

                        Now I'm really lost. And I'm starting to look at the computer parts i bought today and think about returning them!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          There are several good articles in here about how many watts your computer will use. 300W is really the max wattage and not close to the actual wattage used under normal car computer operation. Granted, the trick is to have your setup as efficient as possible. Right now my car pc is an ATX set up, with a regular ATX PSU and an inverter powering it. It doesn't survive crank, so that is something I'm going to be addressing in the near future. I don't think I'll be going with an Opus, but I know many people really like it. I also know there are several articles in here where people list what they have running on an Opus, safely.

                          Good luck.
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Fear Effect
                            I know nothing about cars. so please dont get mad at me if i sounded dumb
                            No worries m8, thought for a minute that you'd come asking for help and were being a little flippant about the responses....no harm done.

                            Right then, a 300W PSU, suppose the 1st question is what kind of system are you intending to build and what purpose are you putting it to?

                            To need a 300W psu would mean that you have some pretty hefty stuff going on.

                            I'm gonna make an assumption that you have a full size ATX mobo, full size drives and a range of PCI cards to make the system and are looking for a suitable way to power it all.

                            Thats not a problem 'cos its the exact same setup that I have at the moment.

                            Do you really need the full size approach?

                            If not and the equipment is recently bought you might be better taking it back whilst its still under warranty and reconsidering your hardware options.

                            Why?

                            Cos the full size approach, whilst being cheaper per component, is also power hungry, not only that but it takes up more room, quite a considerable amount of room in comparison to a mini-ITX based sytem.

                            There are plenty I mean LOADS of threads on which mini-ITX based system to go for so I won't beat that to death.

                            Keep reading and searching and posting questions if you need help.

                            Cheers
                            if you can't find time to do it right, when are you gonna find time to do it over.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by LeoTheHamster
                              I've had a re-read of this, isn't a tank circuit basically just a split charge setup?

                              http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=54203
                              pretty much yes
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