Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

powering project while in the house...

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • powering project while in the house...

    I've seen this sort of covered in various threads, but while in the house (initial building/setup, future work) here are my options for powering my carpc:

    - Unhook the DC-DC power supply from the carpc and use a normal ATX power supply (110V in hooked to the wall) with ATX connection to the carpc motherboard. I can just manually momentarily short the power-switch pins on the motherboard with a paper clip or something

    - Leave the DC-DC power supply connected and provide 12V DC power to it by an AC/DC converter. I'll have to make sure the AC-DC converter provided enough watts to power whatever DC-DC supply I get. These AC-DC converters come in various shapes and sizes and run about $100.

    Does this cover it? What am I missing?

    Maybe this can be added to the power suppply FAQ?
    My worklog.
    Status: VM GTI sold, got out of the CarPC tinkering hobby, but I still think about getting back in.

  • #2
    can you pull 12V from a power supply?

    I'm not sure about this but can you simply pull 12V from an old standard computer power supply?
    http://neonpc.blogspot.com
    [||||||||||||--------] 60% done

    Comment


    • #3
      The best way is to connect a regular ATX PSU when building.

      My PSU (PW200) has a plug to connect a AC/DC adapter but when building I never used it.
      RexBruMet Skin for FrodoPlayer

      Nissan Aux-in MOD


      Originally posted by bgoodman
      We're an international forum, post in whatever langauge you like.

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks. Maybe we can add this bit of info to the FAQ? There's lots of talk about "you can use an ATX supply but then you need an inverter" (clearly aimed at in-car user) or "for bench testing, just get a AC-DC converter". It seemed like a cheap ATX PS would work, but I couldn't find anything that specifically said so.
        My worklog.
        Status: VM GTI sold, got out of the CarPC tinkering hobby, but I still think about getting back in.

        Comment


        • #5
          ***(over PA)*** "Calling Dr bugbyte to the FAQ room" hehehehe

          If nobody do it I will and Also I can post some pics to make eazy to understand
          RexBruMet Skin for FrodoPlayer

          Nissan Aux-in MOD


          Originally posted by bgoodman
          We're an international forum, post in whatever langauge you like.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by kbyrd
            thanks. Maybe we can add this bit of info to the FAQ? There's lots of talk about "you can use an ATX supply but then you need an inverter" (clearly aimed at in-car user) or "for bench testing, just get a AC-DC converter". It seemed like a cheap ATX PS would work, but I couldn't find anything that specifically said so.
            Just to be clear, you ARE referring to removing the DC-DC and powering the system entirely with the ATX PSU, right?

            because if you try to use the 12v rail of an ATX PSU to power your DC-DC, you're going to have problems (unless it's a low power system like an epia). The rail is typically only rated to 8 or 10 amps, and might be lower if it's a cheap supply... that's only about 100-120 watts of output power... if you consider that the DC-DC efficiency isn't 100%, you're probably looking at maybe 80-100 watts to power the computer with. So some systems will be OK, but many will not (something running on a 90W opus or M1-ATX might be okay, but a system that requires a 150W opus will not)

            For real ease of use, having a beefy 12v power supply in the house would be the best bet (like the 20+ amp ones designed for HAM radios and such)... For affordability, pulling the DC-DC and plugging in an ATX supply instead is probably the cheapest method. It just means you have to open up your case and mess with alllll your power connectors, which may or may not be a pain depending on your setup.
            But don't take it from me! here's a quote from a real, live newbie:
            Originally posted by Viscouse
            I am learning buttloads just by searching on this forum. I've learned 2 big things so far: 1-it's been done before, and 2-if it hasn't, there is a way to do it.
            eegeek.net

            Comment


            • #7
              didn't know that

              [QUOTE=evandude]Just to be clear, you ARE referring to removing the DC-DC and powering the system entirely with the ATX PSU, right?

              That is not what I was thinking initially when I made my comment, so it is a good thing that you have informed us that we may have issues there and can expect around 80W
              http://neonpc.blogspot.com
              [||||||||||||--------] 60% done

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm on it! Will add to FAQ. Thanks!
                Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                Want to:
                -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                Comment


                • #9
                  OK, so in my case I really want to test my new OPUS. So, using a regular ATX is not an option (obviously). Can I just wire this directly to my car battery in the garage, using the flimsy short wires from the Opus, without fuses or anything? (engine running etc.)

                  Just want to measre the 12V and 5V outputs on the Opus, to see how stable/accurate they are.
                  2002 Honda CR-V
                  Carputer progress: 90% [▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ -]
                  Spent so far: $1105.90


                  Download the NEXUS Skin for Centrafuse
                  ...or even Listen to my music

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    To begin i used the 20 pin straight from the ATX but now the Opus is in I still use the same ATX except ive made a lead up that plugs into one of the molex plugs- allows me to test the full operation as if it was supplied in the car, all I had to do was jump the 20 pin green wire to black to get the ATX to fire up and voila, 12v available.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X