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My shopping list for a stable car pc.

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  • My shopping list for a stable car pc.

    UPDATED:

    [GOT] Motherboard: Zotac GeForce 9300 Mini-ITX (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2

    [GOT] Processor: Intel Pentium Dual-Core E2200 "LGA775 Core 2" 2.20GHz (800FSB)

    [GOT] Memory: Crucial Ballistix 4GB 2x2GB DDR2 240-pin DIMM PC2-6400 Memory Module

    [GOT] Harddrive: Hitachi Travelstar 2.5in 160GB SATA Hard Drive

    [GOT] Optical: LG SuperMulti DVD-/+RW Slim Drive

    [GOT] Enclosure: Compucase 8K01 Mini-ITX Case

    [GOT] Input: Think Outside Stowaway Bluetooth Foldable Keyboard

    PSU: Unsure?? DC-DC 120w or more whatever happens...

    USB Devices:
    Belkin F8T016NG 10m Mini Bluetooth Adapter
    Globalsat BU-353 Weather-proof GPS Receiver
    HQCT-i AM/FM USB Radio (Don't like the idea of spending so much money on... just a AM/FM radio! Bit of a rip-off!)
    OBD II USB ELM323
    Reverse Camera (somehow need to get the factory reverse cam composite feed running through Centrafuse?)
    Wireless Broadband Module (Three, O2 or Vodaphone USB Dongle)

    Screen:
    Unsure...

    Software:
    TinyXP + Centrafuse w/Nav 2.0 (3.0 if there's any benefits when it's released)

    Any suggestions? or thoughts?

  • #2
    What post did you read about the 2 second POST timings? I have the same board, and in my worklog I've got some details on my timings:

    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...ml#post1311222

    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...ml#post1313036

    If you have any questions about the board or want a picture/video of anything on it let me know.

    Edit: Don't get me wrong, I love the board, I have another one sitting on my desk.
    FAQ to the FAQ - Great Starting Point

    My 2006 Honda Accord Carputer - Work In Progress
    My 1997 Chrysler Concorde Carputer - Died

    Comment


    • #3
      It was a post I found when I googled MINI-ITX post times.

      Someone said that a 'Z' logo flashes for a couple of secs then it moves on to windows boot.

      Did you notice any difference with boot times when you changed the board for the WIFI version?

      I'm considering going for the 9300 (IIRC) board which has optical out, wifi and a better gfx - at twice the price im undecided though...

      Comment


      • #4
        Save yourself the headache and use a full version of WinXP.
        Strip out what you don't need/want after the fact.

        That way you'll be certain you have all Windoze components you need for your project.
        Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
        How about the Wiki?



        Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes, it's likely I would end up taking this route anyway.

          I've pretty much figured out what I'm getting now...

          Zotac nForce 630i-ITX Motherboard - NF630I-D-E
          Intel Core 2 DUO E5200 2.50GHz CPU 800FSB Socket LGA775 - Retail - BX80571E5200
          OCZ PC2-6400 2GB 2 x 1GB DDR2 SLI-Ready Edition Dual Channel - OCZ2N800SR2GK
          OCZ Solid Series 30GB Solid State Drive SATA II 2.5" SSD - OCZSSD2-1SLD30G
          M2-ATX
          GlobalSat BU353 USB
          Linksys WUSB54GR Wireless-G USB Network Adapter with RangeBooster
          Belkin F8T013uk Bluetooth USB Adapter - 10 metres

          The only thing I haven't decided on is the screen... I'm in a Sedan/Saloon and I had a Kenwood DNX double din unit previously which was fine, never had a problem with glare or not being able to read it etc... I can't find any specs for the screen they use however but I'm thinking that it's nothing like the LIN70ATPC-SAU and more likely to be something a little cheaper! 350 spent on the screen isn't something I would like to entertain, especially as this is something that is at risk of being broken or stolen. The rest will be in the boot which cant be accessed without the key/security being deactivated.

          Comment


          • #6
            That Kenwood screen has a resolution equivalent to a television. It is not designed to display the higher resolutions of a PC or HDTV.

            That said, you'll need to get composite video from the PC to feed into the Kenwood, which lowers the image quality substantially. Expect it to look sub-par and be prepared for the display to look like crap.
            You also won't have any touchscreen control for the PC, so you'll need to have some means of controlling functions of your front-end. Mouse? Keyboard? Trackpad? One of those control knobs like the Space Navigator?

            How well do you think you'd be able to navigate a front-end with such a control mechanism? How about while you're driving?
            Something to consider...



            If you take a 7" screen and mold it into your dash for an OEM-look install, it's not very likely to be stolen. A headunit is easy because an experienced thief can break a window, yank out a head unit and be gone in under 30sec. An molded-in screen is going to take MUCH longer to remove, no longer a target of opportunity.

            Granted, a professional thief can still remove it and make away with your expensive goodies. But an experienced thief will also likely take the whole car, too.
            Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
            How about the Wiki?



            Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah the kenwood had very low res compared to a VGA screen (They've only just started rolling out high-res screens with their units). That isn't my concern though, it's the brightness/contrast figures I'm interested in...

              I wouldn't intend on using the kenwood as a screen (especially since it's been stolen!), although it is possible through a modified cable used for the digital TV unit (external addon unit that's controlled through the touchscreen of the kenwood).

              I am going to finish the dash off to a OEM standard as I had previously to allow for a doubledin unit in the first place (Ford for some reason insist on strange headunit sizes like 1.5 din!).

              Sadly no matter how OEM it will look it will still attract the *beeps*... My last head unit would have taken them over an hour to remove and figure out that it's double bolted rear and underside which involved removing a fair bit of the dash trim! An hour with my alarm going would drive most people insane especially as there's an additional siren inside the car! Thats determination!

              Xenarc LCDs may do the job with the extra high brightness levels etc... Saying that I don't want my blacks to look white!

              Comment


              • #8
                everything looks pretty standard. I'd recommend getting and opus or DSATX for psu, and not the m2.
                screenwise, stick with lilliput or xenarc, u can't go wrong.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I don't think Tiny XP is a problem. Aside from the much smaller footprint on the HDD and in memory, I can't see the difference between it and the full version of XP. It has worked flawlessly on my hardware for 12 months. I'd use it again.
                  RodW
                  2007 Toyota Hilux with a CarPC..

                  Worklog: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...ota-hilux.html
                  OziExplorer GPS Embedded in RR: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/sb-s...iexplorer.html

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yup, i'm also running tinyxp, very stable, fast startup.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ok so that's a fair bit of my system now sorted out...

                      Have now bought:

                      ZOTAC GF9300-DE / LGA775 Socket / GeForce 9300 / ITX Motherboard
                      Intel Core 2 DUO E5200 2.50GHz CPU 800FSB Socket LGA775
                      Crucial Ballistix 4GB 2x2GB DDR2 240-pin DIMM PC2-6400 Memory Module
                      Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM 32MB Cache (Won't actually be using for the car but will pop it in to my mediacentre at home)
                      LG SuperMulti DVD-/+RW Slim Drive
                      Compucase 8K01 Mini-ITX Case w/120watt PSU

                      Came to 210 ($340) in total, good price?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        120W might be a bit short for that cpu, but you could check with other people around this forum to see if they've powered similar setup or get a lower power cpu.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          it should be ok as the whole thing was originally offered as a system bundle, the CPU requires 65w? Motherboard 30w? then the remainder for the rest... Saying that it's getting replaced for a 160w DC-DC PSU (original will stay in the case for when I want to run it on mains).

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Just found a new Sata 160GB 2.5" HDD in my box of bits that was sent to me by Asus because I complained about my old one being a bit loud lol. Think I'll use that as based on my very simple test runs on a AMD 2400 with a IDE 5400RPM hdd from the dark ages I should be able to get windows to restore from hibernation within 15secs which is fine... The actual carPC should do that being a much greater spec...

                            So that's plonked on to the list for the time being.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Got one of these for my non-screen input, cost me nothing as it came with my PDA which I totally forgot about.

                              http://reviews.cnet.com/keyboards/th...-31125478.html

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