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Please check my build and answer some power Qs?

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  • Please check my build and answer some power Qs?

    Hi all,

    I've been through the FAQ Emporium, the forum rules, and many threads on here. Now I'm looking to hopefully receive some more individualized help.

    The car is a 2010 Corolla S Manual. It is currently stock, non JBL radio.

    The planned audio- I'm selling off my kicker zx350.4 currently on eBay in favor of purchasing an Alpine PDX-5 to mount under one of the front seats. The speakers I already own- a set of Pioneer D series 6.5 components in front and Polk DB691 for rear. I'm planning on buying a shallow mount sub once I have the amp, and mounting that in the trunk- possibly the JL 13". I already have everything ripped out of the old car and in my closet waiting.

    I currently own a Pioneer Avic-f700bt. Great unit once it has firmware 3.0, but I'd rather create my own now that I've seen everything in action. I actually bought 2 of them when Circuit City was going under for $250 a piece. The second is in the girlfriend's car. I'll probably install this temporarily while I build and test the CarPC, then sell to recoup some of my costs.

    I need to buy:
    Intel BOXD945GCLF2 (i want tv out in case of headrest monitors if i still own this when we have kids)
    Corsair 2GB ddr667
    BU-353 GPS Antenna
    M2-ATX??? I realize the DSATX is better, but twice as good? (2x$)?
    Pioneer cd-vm1 (their gps unit mic, (20$ crutchfield) have to test compatibility with PC)
    Xenarc 705TSV (seems like price/performance bang for buck, also easiest to dash mold without removing bezel)
    Centrafuse Navi (current version now, then 3.0 free when it releases)

    I already own:
    Asus Bluetooth Mini-USB
    USB Wifi-N
    160GB Sata 2.5" Seagate
    Windows 7 RC 64bit (could also use XP Pro 32bit)
    Double Din Dashkit/harness (its in the mail...)
    reverse camera

    I might get:
    USB sound card like the Turtle Beach SRM, open to suggestions
    Slot load DVD/CD (don't really use CDs, we'll see how getting the screen to fit goes)
    Slim Keyboard
    which would fit nice in my upper glove box
    Wired OBD-II (eventually)

    Does this seem about right, equipment wise, considering what I'd like to do with it:

    -Bluetooth Sync with my Blackberry Curve, make/receive calls using PC/Speakers
    -Store/play all my music (30 or 40GB)
    -Wireless to network at home so I don't have to remove it for changes.
    -GPS Navigation
    -Eventually OBD-II


    My questions are mainly about power, as I wasn't positive I understood the Power FAQ. The M2-atx should have plenty of raw wattage for my needs, but I'm not sure how it all gets wired up in conjunction with my amp. Is this correct-

    Battery->Inline 4gauge fuse->4guage cable->Power Distro block (grounded to seatbolt), then split to M2-ATX with 12ga and to PDX-5 with 4ga?
    How can I wire the screen to the M2, is there a cable adapter kit to buy? Especially since it will have to run from the front dash to under a seat.

    On a molex conenctor this is the Yellow wire (12V +ve) and you also want to use the adjacent black wire for -ve.

    If you power your monitor in this way you do not have to use the 12V regualtor that comes with it - doing so as well may introduce noise and also cause your screen to be dimmer due to a voltage drop. It is also one more thing to go wrong.
    Easy enough, but how does it connect to the Xenarc wiring? Do I have to void my warranty to wire it this way? How can I wire it if I don't want to void my warranty or have a cig lighter adapter sticking out?

    Finally, and I ask this without research because it just came to me, do I utilize the radio harness at all? Unless I'm wiring into it for power I don't know why I'd need it? I'll be running fresh monster cable for the speakers...

    Thanks for reading through!

  • #2
    For a solution that doesn't require you to cut the wires on your Xenarc, you can buy molex Y-adaptors that will split the output of the 12v wire inside the PC downstream of the M2-ATX. Then, you buy a molex connector that plugs into that and ends with bare wires. You buy a FEMALE cigarette lighter connector and wire that to the bare wires coming out of the molex connector.

    Then, plug the Y-adaptor into your harness and connect one side as normal. On the other side plug the molex to female cigarette lighter adaptor you just built. Plug the Xenarc into the female cigarette lighter and you'll have power for it.

    If you don't mind cutting the wires on your Xenarc (most people end up doing this if they have a permanent installation) you can CUT the wires going to the Xenarc and connect the molex connector right to the wires and plug it directly into the Y-adaptor. That skips the step of putting the female cigarette lighter plug in the wiring but it requires that you cut the wires.

    Summary:

    No cut solution is Y-adaptor --> molex connector --> female cigarette lighter socket --> Xenarc cigarette plug

    Cut solution is Y-adaptor --> molex connector wired to Xenarc power wires

    Oh, and radio harness is not used. Only thing you might need is to run an accessory wire (power on) from the radio harness to the M2-ATX to signal it to turn on and off. There are other locations you can get this signal from, including using a fuse tap inside the fusebox. Not sure where you were planning on gettting it from.
    Originally posted by ghettocruzer
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

    Comment


    • #3
      I really like my dsatx over a m series...

      for the keyboard, i have tried the bluetooth, keyboard/mouse board that used a very similar layout, and found that the keys are very small and sometimes hard to use--i ended up getting this:http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...8753&CatId=142

      it has much larger keys, and makes typing a little easier in a car environment.

      for soundcards, it really depends on why you need it-- if you just want to get away from the onboard outputs, than any card will do.
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided

      Comment


      • #4
        Make sure you put good time into researching the right reverse camera. Also your monitor is capable of auto AV2 so it'll switch automatically when you reverse.
        Something to look for:
        - Get CCD and not CMOS
        - Low light + infared
        - Mirror Image capability
        - Weather Proof

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the comments!

          I'll go backwards because its easier

          Make sure you put good time into researching the right reverse camera.
          I already own one, I think it was an Audiovox. Another purchase from CC (15$, 90% off and I didn't even have to hide it in the back!), it mounts to the license plate. It worked ok with the Pioneer so I'm going to use it for now and see if it leaves me wanting. I'll keep your advice in mind if I go shopping for a new one!

          I really like my dsatx over a m series...
          What features does it truly add to make it worth the extra money? I ask only because I'm still trying to decide, and I do understand the importance of good clean power. I just can't justify the price difference as I see it.

          for the keyboard, i have tried the bluetooth, keyboard/mouse board that used a very similar layout, and found that the keys are very small and sometimes hard to use--i ended up getting this:http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...8753&CatId=142
          The only reason I landed on that one was bluetooth and dimensions. My top glove box that I'd like to have it in is a little over 4" deep. I didn't even consider trying to have a mouse, but if I did it would probably be some kind of air mouse.

          for soundcards, it really depends on why you need it-- if you just want to get away from the onboard outputs, than any card will do.
          I own quite a bit of home theater gear (~$2-3,000), so I'm used to good sound. I don't trust the onboard sound to provide good decoding. I wouldn't normally use a USB card but I don't have much of a choice. I'm just starting to look at these, and I'm not sure who makes a good one for hi quality sound out of analog outputs.

          If you don't mind cutting the wires on your Xenarc (most people end up doing this if they have a permanent installation) you can CUT the wires going to the Xenarc and connect the molex connector right to the wires and plug it directly into the Y-adaptor. That skips the step of putting the female cigarette lighter plug in the wiring but it requires that you cut the wires.
          I have a feeling this will be the direction I go, as the female cig adapter thing sounds like a terribly awkward workaround. Ill just cut apart an extra Molex->sata cable that I have for the bare wire portion.

          So its a 4pin molex Y cable to add on molex connectors to the initial PSU wiring, then female molex cable with bare wire, soldered I'd assume to the included cig adapter (with the cig adapter end cut off)?

          Will the atom dual core 1.6ghz be powerful enough? Did I get the general amp/pc wiring correct?

          Thanks again for the assistance- I'd like to make my purchases pretty much in one fell swoop, and make my best attempt to get it right the first time.

          Comment


          • #6
            Oh yeah, and will windows 7 64bit be ok or should I use XP Pro. I'd edit my previous post but it didn't get approved yet!

            Comment


            • #7
              Some people are running Win 7 but it's a little more difficult. If it's your first build, I'd stick w/ XP for simplicity.

              Comment


              • #8
                the os is really personal preferance-- i still prefer xp over w7, or vista.
                My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                next project? subaru brz
                carpc undecided

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TFCommanderBob View Post
                  So its a 4pin molex Y cable to add on molex connectors to the initial PSU wiring, then female molex cable with bare wire, soldered I'd assume to the included cig adapter (with the cig adapter end cut off)?
                  Right. Cut off the cigarette lighter adaptor.
                  Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                  I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                  Want to:
                  -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                  -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TFCommanderBob View Post
                    What features does it truly add to make it worth the extra money? I ask only because I'm still trying to decide, and I do understand the importance of good clean power. I just can't justify the price difference as I see it.
                    I'm biased agains the entire M-series of PSU. I did a whole write-up explaining the reasons behind my bias and why I doubt I will ever purchase one of their products.
                    I own a DSATX , and I can tell you that I have had but one problem with it. That problem was resolved with a firmware update.
                    The DSATX is infinately more customizable than an M2. You can monitor the voltages and temperature, remotely turn on your amps (relay required), power cooling fans seperate from the PC, and more.
                    It's a quality unit, designed by a forum member who stands behind his design and his product.
                    Well worth the price premium.

                    I own quite a bit of home theater gear (~$2-3,000), so I'm used to good sound. I don't trust the onboard sound to provide good decoding. I wouldn't normally use a USB card but I don't have much of a choice. I'm just starting to look at these, and I'm not sure who makes a good one for hi quality sound out of analog outputs.
                    Do yourself a favor and at least try the onboard sound to see if it meets your aural tastes (pun intended).
                    If it does, you've saved some coin. If not, you've lost nothing and still need to choose a sound card.
                    Understand that a PCI (or PCI-E) sound card will have to be secured somehow in order for the system to be reliable. The regular vibration and bumping around of driving can cause PCI cards to work loose.


                    Will the atom dual core 1.6ghz be powerful enough? Did I get the general amp/pc wiring correct?
                    Go for the Atom 330.

                    Originally posted by TFCommanderBob View Post
                    Oh yeah, and will windows 7 64bit be ok or should I use XP Pro. I'd edit my previous post but it didn't get approved yet!
                    XP Pro. It's a known quantity.
                    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                    How about the Wiki?



                    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK so I guess XP wins the day.

                      I was avoiding PCI because of height and that 'working loose' problem, though I do have just under 4" if I keep it comfortably (.25") away from the seatbottom. I'd prefer not to build a full case, but rather just mount it to an old motherboard tray. If I did end up with a PCI sound card, I was looking at either this Auzentech or this SIIG, though I'm not familiar with either brand. They have the breakout style cabling and are low profile, the former which I'd prefer, the latter which I'd require. I was figuring that using the onboard sound would change how I purchase adapters to wire everything, and would leave me with adapters that I might not need. That may not be the case, as those breakout cables look like they are terminated with 3.5mm. So I'll be needing those 1/8"-2rca + rca y ->rca cables after all.

                      I didn't set a budget, but I'm trying not to break the bank as well! That being said, unless I hear cries of "you're an idiot" and "wth is wrong with you" and the like, I'm also considering going to a micro-atx board and a lower end c2d to beef up generally. Like this combo with an ECS board and an e6300 for 115 shipped after rebates and such. I already have a low profile cooler sitting around NIB. I think the performance gains would be tremendous for 35$ more, although I suppose its possible that I'd not notice it. Perhaps in web browsing flash sites, or a basic gamepad-style game or something.

                      I might take this route and get the DSATX and downgrade my subwoofer, as I'm only throwing out 300 watts to it anyway, not a dedicated amp. Not lookin to rattle the trunk, just hoping for some bass in my music as I was disappointed with the low end performance of my speakers when I had them in the eclipse. Perhaps a pioneer 10" for ~120$. That would bring my total down 200$ or so but possibly still give me decent sound. It would probably fit into my wheel well a bit nicer too as it can use a tiny volume box.

                      Anyway, my amp sold for 75 +15 shipping, I expect around 300 for my current headunit when I sell it, I have some misc electronics that I expect to get ~500 for. So thats about 900. As long as my out of pocket stays around 500, I'm peachy.

                      Keep 'em coming, I'm thrilled with the input!

                      Comment

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