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  • New here! hello and a bit of a plan!

    Hello everyone I'm George and i'm from Greece! First of all, thanks for your "walkthroughs" and FAQs for everything we need to know about car-pc and not only this!

    It's my first post here and since i'm a computer enthusiast i decided to put a car-pc in my Volkswagen Jetta mk-2! I'm a bit of a planner so here is my iamge plan of what i figured out that i need for my car-pc after hours of reading.

    VER. 1.0

    First of all i need you to tell me if the whole system is going.......to work!
    And we continue to more questions!

    Questions:
    No1 : How many Amperes fuse for the screen ?
    No2 : It's better to power up my car-pc, before or after the power capacitor ?
    No3 : I don't think there is a problem with manual on/off dashboard mounted car-pc switch ??
    No4 : I have not still decided where to hide my car-pc! Anyone know if Jetta has a hidden place somewhere behind the dashboard ?


    Facts :
    No1 : I already have installed a fused wiring to capacitor, capacitor, distributer, and 2 amplifiers.
    No2 : I don't want my car-pc to boot with my car so this is why I decided not to use the ignition command. (Maybe i 'll use it later!)
    No3 : I don't want it connected all the time to my amplifiers so that's why i decided to use aux-in which is in the front panel of my JVC front end. Whenever i want to i'll connect it.
    No4 : Maybe i 'll make a USB input somewhere on the dashboard!


    Ok, so....the PowerCalculator calculates for me, even with 7 more USB devices, plus one keyboard and one mouse (that makes 9 devices) and even one 60W graphics adapter (i don't think on-board uses such a lot of power but i put it just for sure) that i need 196W peak power. So my choice seems to be correct about DC-DC M4-ATX power supply.


    In my image i have some numbers. Below i give you links for what i'm going to use :
    (1)Power Supply
    (2)Mainboard
    (3)CPU - AMD Sempron 140
    (4)2 DDR2 Sticks - 1GB each (no link!)
    (5)7" VGA TFT LCD Touch Screen

    Any suggestions/advice are welcome!
    Thanks in advance for your help!
    _=_ VW Beetle 1303LS _=_

  • #2
    looks like it is very well planned!

    so far, here are the issues that i see with it, you or others might disagree though

    the capacitor is useless--it is really not helping anything but lessing the wheight of your wallet. there is a recent thread in the car audio section about that..

    for the remote power switch, and reset button, i understand why you want the power switch, but i would highly recommend a reset button also-- i also thought i would never use both, but wired them up because i had the wire(a single cat5 takes care of status led's and buttons..), and have used it more than i would like to admit... for the power button, i am not exactly sure how that is going to work-- most of the dc-dc power supplies have a 'dummy' mode where they just stay on all the time, but can eat up the battery staying in that condition(i think)... most dc-dc's use the switched line to turn off the computer, and go into a 'power saving' mode, where they consume less power until the switched line goes active again.

    what about connecting your switch to controlling that remote line on the dc-dc instead? this way, you can have both controls, and the advantage of power saving(with my dsatx, i have left my car sit for weeks, and i don't have to worry about it not starting).

    the other issues is the usb hdd. i have not tried it, but i thought there was issues with them, similar to the cf-ide adpater setups. just go with a cheap hard drive, 3.5, 2.5, it really doesn't matter...

    1. fuse for the screen-- i beleive that my 629 led screen needs something like a 5 amp fuse-- though a 2-4 amp fuse should also work for a led backlit screen, but definatly never above 10 amps for the screen.

    2. like i said above, i think it would be better to remove the cap all together, but it shouldn't matter whether you wire it before or after it..

    3. got that one above too.

    4. can't speak for the jetta, but overall, most will install it in trunk, or under one of the seats. there usually isn't too much room under the dash--sometimes there is just enough room for a tiny motherboard--unless you remove the radio, which you said wasn't a option right now, and with your current motherboard selection, i have not seen any dash with that much flat, open space...
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided

    Comment


    • #3
      Post Edit: I missed SoundMan's reply, but we have some aspects in common - viz the cap! So back to what I wrote.... Cheers.

      I saw the capacitor and thought don't bother (here are better solutions).
      Then I saw the its 40A fuse and thought definitely don't bother.
      But alas, you already have it.
      And think it is in the wrong place - but it depends what you are using if for. (It should be across the biggest amp. But I'd suggest a fuse larger than 40A for it - I think that is likely to blow if there is a step voltage change (5.2F is pretty big - almost as big as a $20 battery, but if it has a low ESR, its currents(s) can be high).
      (Note that I am one of those that seeks to find out why a capacitor should be used in place of other better and cheaper options. I have yet to find a valid technical reason.)

      I suggest you don't have a ground connection between the battery & ?A Fuse and the screen Power - but that is obviously an accidental inclusion.

      That Touch Screen fuse should be rated to protect the screen unless the screen has it's own fuse - in which case the fuse is near the battery and to protect the wiring (in case it overloads or that short to chassis isn't removed).
      But at 9W, a 1A fuse is probably a minimum size.
      But at that (minor) consumption, I'd common it with the PC supply input.

      The M4-ATX requires a fuse of 40A for its own use (assuming ~250W input) (and hence why the 1A-2A screen makes little difference).
      And I'd probably take them off the cap - they probably won't benefit from the cap.


      But I'll let others with CarPuter experience suggest the rest, or counter-suggest.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by OldSpark View Post
        The M4-ATX requires a fuse of 40A for its own use (assuming ~250W input) (and hence why the 1A-2A screen makes little difference).
        just a small correction(or maybe i need to be corrected?)-- the m4 has a 25 amp fuse on it, but the listed max current limits of the m4 add up to 40 amps--what gives?

        i realize that it is max current on all rails, instead of the nominal current, but shouldn't that add up to the fuse size on the psu?
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          Thread moved to proposed setup forum.
          Originally posted by ghettocruzer
          I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
          Want to:
          -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
          -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

          Comment


          • #6
            Wow guys! You are great! Greetz to you all! Please use more common words because my english are not too good! thanks!

            @soundman98
            Ok, i can change what manual switch will control. That's easy! I' ll send it to the PSU.

            I'm planning going big with my sound system, that's why i installed a capacitor.....anyway, i'll probably going to sell it and put a higher Amperes battery. We'll see....

            Yeah, ok about the HDD.....this is still on planning......maybe i'll get a real HDD! I chose this way for lower power consumption! and for a more Concentrated (dunno if this is correct :P) solution! i mean compact!

            Can u figuge out what'up with the fuses? because from the psu image i can see that no fuse exists!

            @OldSpark
            Of course it's an accidental inclusion but what do you exactly mean ? I should use a ground for the TFT screen......how else can i power it ?

            I was planning to go big with my sound system, so that's why i installed a big capacitor! Anyway i 'll probably sell it to a friend and buy a new bigger Ah battery. Like a 75 one or more.....because my current is 45 i think

            But at that (minor) consumption, I'd common it with the PC supply input.
            What exactly do u mean "you would common it with..." ?
            Sorry but my english seems to be poor

            So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????

            Do u suggest a new fused wire directly from battery only for car pc ?
            _=_ VW Beetle 1303LS _=_

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
              Thread moved to proposed setup forum.
              I assume that is an honor to me! right ? Bugbyte just to inform ya i own a 1303LS Beetle '72 ! hehe!

              EDIT: lol.......what honor!?!?!? you posted in the wrong section!! hahaha!
              _=_ VW Beetle 1303LS _=_

              Comment


              • #8
                One little detail that I think slipped by.....If you want to use the touch part of the touch screen you will need that usb wire connected too (not just the vga).
                openMobile - An open source C# Front End (why choose openMobile?)
                - Always Recruiting Developers -
                Like what you see? Donations are always welcome

                Comment


                • #9
                  i really don't know if a usb drive is similar to a compact flash card, but assume they are due to the similar usage, and memory type(feel free to prove me wrong )..

                  there have been a lot of issues in the past with getting memory cards loaded-- it requires a lot of time and careful software choices...

                  a normal hard drive will get you up and running a lot faster and easier.
                  or, if you want the speed, and low power consumption, look into Solid State Hard drives-- they aren't cheap, but are fast and (i think) less power hungry..

                  here is the link to the thread i was talking about:
                  http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...capacitor.html

                  there is a lot of info, and oldspark tends to ramble a little(in both this thread and the cap thread ), but if you sort through the junk there is a lot of good info on why caps are not helping a sound system (or, i should say, have not been proven to help a sound system..)

                  summary of the thread: the amount of power that the cap can store and send out is a much smaller amount than even a small 12 volt battery--so a 2nd battery will help more with low voltage(like when your subs are pounding) than a capacitor...

                  there was different versions of the m4, the most current version, for sale in the mp3car store shows a fuse in the bottom right hand corner, just above the inputs(it is a tan 25 amp fuse, so it blends in well..).

                  for the "common it with" i think he means to connect the ground to the pc power also(instead of connecting it to the car).

                  i think a 5 amp fuse should be enough for the screen.

                  for the pc power, if you can use the power wire from your audio stuff, just fuse it after the split, and adjust the fuse size by the battery for the added power.
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GiorgaKiSs View Post
                    Wow guys! You are great! Greetz to you all! Please use more common words because my english are not too good! thanks!

                    @soundman98
                    Ok, i can change what manual switch will control. That's easy! I' ll send it to the PSU.

                    I'm planning going big with my sound system, that's why i installed a capacitor.....anyway, i'll probably going to sell it and put a higher Amperes battery. We'll see....

                    Yeah, ok about the HDD.....this is still on planning......maybe i'll get a real HDD! I chose this way for lower power consumption! and for a more Concentrated (dunno if this is correct :P) solution! i mean compact!

                    Can u figuge out what'up with the fuses? because from the psu image i can see that no fuse exists!

                    @OldSpark
                    Of course it's an accidental inclusion but what do you exactly mean ? I should use a ground for the TFT screen......how else can i power it ?

                    I was planning to go big with my sound system, so that's why i installed a big capacitor! Anyway i 'll probably sell it to a friend and buy a new bigger Ah battery. Like a 75 one or more.....because my current is 45 i think


                    What exactly do u mean "you would common it with..." ?
                    Sorry but my english seems to be poor

                    So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????

                    Do u suggest a new fused wire directly from battery only for car pc ?
                    what he means by "common it with the PSU" is that your probably going to have a 4 pin molex connector extra comming off your M4 ATX PSU, so you can just use the 12v rail from there. well i think thats what he means anyway.

                    as for the HDD, i know solid state drives use very little power (like 2 watts or something tiny), a regular disk drive might use more, but i cant imagine theres much difference between an external and internal HDD in terms of power. probably faster to use the interal anyway. i haven't actually researched this myself, so you might want to look yourself if it's such an issue.

                    speaking of power, i would make sure you have the correct power amount on the correct rails. im still planning mine so im not 100% how to do that hehe.

                    have fun!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      GiorgaKiSs - you are a pleasure! (That means I like you.)

                      Apologies for my expression - and please continue to ask. Whilst American movie stars think foreigners understand English if they just speak s-l-o-w-l-y. I'm Australian and now that nobody understands us (eh mate?) even though I live in the second biggest Greek city in the world (or was).
                      (And I won't post any smart Greek words. Last time I tried that in Swedish I got gay confused with horny. (Isn't gay related to the Mallacan Straits?)


                      By that ground's "accidental inclusion" I merely meant that diagrammatically, it shows the red +12V connected to black 0V (ground).
                      But I assumed that was a error, else meant pehaps you were using shielded cable etc.

                      But you are correct - the screen must be grounded and from its power supply .

                      If it was not grounded, it would find some other grounding path and probably blow its components. That's bad for most input and output circuits.
                      (Though by lucky coincidence, VGA and similar interfaces often use a shielded cable. The outer shield connects each end's VGA-connector's ground together (and these are often chassis ground) and thus can ground the screen. (The shield being relatively heavy and carry more current than other signals.) Other cables can do the same - eg Ethernet etc Cat-5 cables if all "returns" for each signal wire are connected together and to ground.)
                      BTW - this relates to the separate termination of signal grounds and power grounds even though somewhere they will be connected together (but only from one interconnection) - by that's another story!


                      By commoned together, I simply mean connected together.
                      EG - your amp supplies should be common = connected together - ie, using that power distributor. It seems "we" also think the PSU (Power Supply Unit - ie (1) Car PC Pwr Supply) should be separate to the amps - or don't need the cap(acitor). Hence common = connect the PSU's power input to the screen's power input - as if they had their own Distribution Block (power distributor).

                      That makes sense from a general electrical and system distribution POV (Point Of View).
                      IE - the audio system is it's own distribution system and separate from the PC's components and system.
                      Each would probably have their own (separate) fuse(s) so that if the audio overloads, it merely blows its fuse, but not the PC's fuse.
                      (Wouldn't you hate it if a fault in the smaller or less important amplifier blew the fuse that also protected the PC? The PC dies just as Greece kicks the winning goal against the Turks!! Or better still - the Swedes! Yay!)


                      So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????
                      Aha! Basic fusing (aka protection) theory! (aka = also known as; aka "(is) also called")

                      1 - Equipment Protection - each piece of equipment should have its own protection - ie "blow its own fuse" - rather than destroy itself.
                      Most overload sensitive or fault-prone devices have their own protection. EG - amplifiers, televisions, house electrics. Their fuses may be user-changeable and easy to get to (amps, house) but may be internal when they are not expected to blow, but are still the sacrificial component that is sacrificed to the Great Smoke God (eg, multimeters aka DMMs, televisions, radios).

                      If an equipment does not have its own fuse, then it may be grouped with others. This is seen in car electrics - many circuits might share the same fuse. The fuse is big enough to handle all the different loads (circuits), but small enough so that if a fault on any circuit - like a short to ground - will blow the fuse. (Note that when shared like this, circuits are usually "grouped" into related functional groups. Or sometimes deliberately separated - eg left headlights from right, or hi-beam form low-beam - so that if one blows, you still have something available or some alternative.)

                      If equipment does NOT have its own protection, you may have to provide it.

                      2 - Distribution Protection - the protection of the power sources, cables and wires.
                      If you short a car battery, you will have massive sparks, heat, and maybe an explosion. Hence you must have protection that avoids that.
                      In old days, the protection was the "physical security" of the distribution (wires) from the battery to the fuses (often in the cabin).
                      These days, there are usually main or master fuses - often call fuselinks - at or near the battery to provide electrical protection (aka security) from battery shorts etc.

                      But those fuselinks (aka flinks) are also sized to protect the "downstream" wires that go to the amps or Distribution Blocks or fuse blocks etc.
                      EG - a 1000W RMS amplifier may have a 150A cable supplying it from the battery, so there might be a 150A (or smaller) flink or fuse or circuit-breaker at the start of the 150A cable.
                      That 150A cable might be supplying your amps instead. The 150A fuse is NOT to protect your amps, but the distribution to them - your amps have their own protection as per (1) above. [If your amps are only 40A, you might use a 40A or 50A or 60A etc for the 150A cable. The 150A cable is still good because it means less resistance than a 40A cable, but you may niot need and expensive 150A fuse. Using a 40A fuse "upstream" may save using a 40A downstream fuse at the amp end.]

                      Power distribution is often a "fan-out" situation - eg, an 80A main circuit splits into 2x40A circuits and one of those 40A branches into 3x10A & 20A & 5A etc.
                      Each sized cable should be protected upstream. IE - the 5A circuit with 5A cable has its 5A fuse which is powered from the 40A cable & its fuse fro the 80A cable and fuse.

                      Power distribution can be tricky because you want the downstream fuses (eg 5A) to blow before the upstream fuses (40A & 80A). (This may seem ridiculous, but because fuses have different response characteristics - it can happen. It's probably a more common problems with (mismatched) circuit breakers.)
                      The upstream fuse may be smaller than the total of the downstreams because provided it protects its immediate cable, it may be setting some maximum current for all the downstream loads (ie, no individual fault, but the lot is taking too much power/current).
                      Likewise the upstream fuse may be larger than the downstreams because it is merely protecting its own wire.
                      And as per the amp example earlier, of the largest or only downstream fuse is 5A, then the upstream 80A fuse could be replaced by a 5A fuse and the downstream 5A fuse omitted. This is common in "minimal resistance" distributions such as audio systems whereby you remove one fuse (resistance) from the chain. (Not that you would do that for a 5A circuit, but I'm merely explaining the principal.)


                      In Summary:
                      Now all the above crap is simply summarised as "each fuse protects its downstream load" where load includes wire/cables and shorts, downstream means "until the next fuse", and fuse means protection - circuit breakers, flinks fuses etc.

                      But I wanted to detail different scenarios because (1) I have a rambling reputation, (2) I like to see people relax and catch up on well earned sleep, (3) I see some weird info around the place and want to overcome that, and teach people etc (else generate discussion etc).

                      Another aspect is protection ratings - a general ROT (Rule Of Thumb) is that protection should normally be operating on average at not more than 70% of its rating.
                      IE - a 10A fuse for a 7A average load (that can peak at 9A, and probably 12A for a few minutes depending on the fuse characteristic); but a 9A average load should be using a 15A fuse, not 10A.
                      But some circuits can be more critical than that, but the they probably would not use fuses.
                      Keep in mind that a fuse won't blow at a 101% overload, and it may take an hour at 110%, 30 minutes at 120% and 5 secs at 150% overload etc.
                      Then there are (normal) fast blow fuses, slo-blo fuses (for motors and hi in-rush currents), etc.


                      So, in answer to So....what for the "? fuse" 1A or 5~10 A ????, if the screen has its own fuse (and I expect it would - and hopefully externally accessible unless it is unlikely to blow), then you only protect the wire to it (maybe 5A etc?).
                      If no fuse - or if an internal fuse - you may want to use a 1A fuse assuming that's the max current for the screen (or that 0.7A is).
                      Its 9W rating is probably at 13.8V. That means 0.65A (P-VI, hence I=P/V = 9W/13,8V = .65A)
                      If a "constant power" load and it can run on 9V, then it 9W = 9W/9V - 1A.
                      But is that 9W rating its average or maximum consumption? Does it not have any in-rush current?
                      Hence why it's nice to be able to easily change fuses - at least until stiff like hat gets sorted out.

                      FYI - that M4 PSU mentioned operating down to 6V input.
                      Assume it is 250W input at 6V (probably providing 225W if it is 90% efficient), that is 250W/6V = 42Amps (say a 40A fuse) as opposed to 250/12 & 250/14 - 21A & 17A (a 25A fuse) at 12V and 14V respectively. (12V being maybe typical supply voltage, engine off, & 14V engine on.)
                      So the PSU (for 225W output assuming 90% efficiency = 250W input) - a 25A fuse, or 40A fuse?
                      Answer??? The PSU should have its own protection, hence wire & it fuse or for worst case - lets make it 50A.
                      But it is likely 25A or 30A is enough since 6V means a real bad battery under heavy cranking, and normally cranking wouldn't be for long and rarely below 10 volts, maybe 8V. And since fuses handle overloads for short periods....
                      And if you use a circuit breaker for the PSU and PC - I'd advise a manual reset. You don't want an off-on-off-on-off situation for a PC!


                      Welcome to the fun and simple world of system power wiring. (Where planning saves much $moke & dollar$, and you find out that a wire and a load is merely thing that contains smoke which is dying to be sacrificed and released to the Great Smoke God that resides in our wallets and heaven.)


                      I'll let others suggest wiring to battery though I reckon yes - the battery is the "cleanest" power source (a battery is a big cap that filters most noise).
                      But there are also circuits that connect power the PSU after charging begins (that latch on, and have manual initiation/bypass too) or you may want a second battery as is often used for hi-power audio, or independence from the main battery (in case the PC etc flattens the battery).
                      And there are low-voltage cutout switches (for ~$20) that can control relays....

                      But plan (which as SoundMan said - you did very well! Nice to see!), iterate (ie, change and improve), review, re-iterate, review, lose temper, argue.... get concensus/approval or make a decision ('cos we'll be - or rather, I'll be bickering forever) and get the ultimate design.
                      Then you can make the ultimate sacrifice to Smokey! (aka "All care & no responsibility" aka "we don't care and it's your responsibility anyhow").

                      ZZZZZzzzzzz

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by justchat_1 View Post
                        One little detail that I think slipped by.....If you want to use the touch part of the touch screen you will need that usb wire connected too (not just the vga).
                        I know that, u did well to remind it to me
                        If i connect it it will work as a mouse, right ? So, the use of mouse will be useless..... correct ?
                        _=_ VW Beetle 1303LS _=_

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          ....you guys are unbelievable! No words to describe! Just second day here and you help me just like i'm your brother or something! Never seen that before! Thanks again again and again!

                          Anyway......enough with ... :P .... hehehe

                          @OldSpark
                          Thanks for enriching my encyclopaedic knowledge, and i really mean that. From your advice i think i made correct connections! If no, please advise me!
                          Any suggestions with fuses are welcome! Hehe, with your friend Smokey!

                          Of course I'm not seeking for perfect.......besides if you see my car .... from the outside it looks like an ooooooolllld MK2 jetta plus it has 3 colours on it (different bonnet, doors, and rest of body). Because here in Greece thnigs are a little rough with the police, i keep it that old rusty look from the outside....but if you see inside (mechanical, and interior) you ll see everything is perfect! Plus a ..... well hidden 2L engine with the car still being 1.3L at it's license (that means that i pay taxes etc still for a 1300 cc car ). Or another example, you ll notce that i run it in coilovers..... Anyway......back to plan!

                          So, capacitor is out, and a bigger battery is in it's place. Plus the 7" monitor is powered together with the car-pc power supply and the switch is now correctly connected........(I think so..)

                          Let's have a look at the new plan!

                          Still suggestions/corrections are welcome!

                          ======================
                          CORRECTED PLAN
                          ======================

                          VER. 1.1
                          ======================
                          CORRECTED PLAN
                          ======================


                          @gaoes
                          Thank u for your help!

                          @soundman98
                          Thanks mate for your help!

                          I googled before i make my plan and i found a bunch of guides for installing Windows XP to a USB Flash and make them running normally as they should and sometimes (with specific models only) running even fasted than HDDs! Not SSDs of course!

                          We are still on planning so maybe till the end i'll put a real HDD! hehe!


                          Greetz to you all guys!
                          _=_ VW Beetle 1303LS _=_

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            the use of a mouse witha touchscreen is only a extra way of control-- like having 2 steering wheels... for some, it might be nice, but for others, it will be useless..
                            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                            next project? subaru brz
                            carpc undecided

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hey GK - were are all bros, and sisters. If your are not, the POQ (Pss Off Quietly/Quickly).
                              Well, let's say we should all be one big happy family. Until the misunderstanding(s). The fights...

                              Not that I have time to chat... (And the crowd roared! Yay!)

                              But the Corrected Plan (Rev 0.1?, or Rev1 = Ver 1.1) looks good. Certainly a much better power distribution.
                              Although still using the same Pwr Distributor, it clearly splits audio from PC etc.

                              If you already have the cap, I reckon you may as well use it provided it fits in okay.
                              And in principle, I'd be tempted to use is for the PC & screen since the PC supply is more important - ie, a sag can lock up the PC; but only "dip" the amp.
                              BUT!!! Excluding path (cable) resistances, a cap across the PC is a cap across the amps (and vice versa).
                              AND - the PSU works down to 6V or whatever, plus it probably has some internal storage as may the PC itself (even if only for under a second) - so wouldn't this cater for even the worst power sag?
                              (Hence use the cap for the audio for "traditional" audio reasons - which most of us realise is crap unless you cant mount a smaller battery closer etc.)
                              Or the cap across the bussbar - ie, if the Pwr Dist'or has a 2nd "IN" input (next to or the same as the "IN"), you could connect the cap that IN#2 and ground.
                              But it is only of use if it & the loads have a reasonable voltage drop compared to the battery, or the battery has a high(er) ESR, etc.
                              Like I said - because or if you already have it, and then if it is easy to fit.


                              And what's this crap about not seeking perfection BECAUSE your car is..... whatever...??!
                              You remind me of a fellow (car) club member that once laughed because my $500 car had a $1,000 sound system! But that member has since shown himself to be much of fool anyhow (and I see that you will not be joining him down that path!).
                              (FYI - I moved that $1,000 system to my next car - coincidentally also a $500 car. And I moved the 300-400Nm engine (2k-3k RPM) with it as well. What are looks when you have class and great systems. Mind you, the engine helps LOL!)


                              Bit I'll check more later.
                              I don't remember the bigger battery bit - I presume for extra reserve.
                              I think I mentioned a voltmeter (across the battery)....

                              And yeah - I like the "Ig Switch". Nothing like manual controls. (Just don't forget to turn off!) But that can be modified later - maybe using 2 batteries etc....

                              Regards,

                              Peter.

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