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  • Carputer: 1969 Chevelle

    So I know the muscle car enthusiasts will hate me for this, but I'm going to put a carputer into the 1969 Chevelle I recently acquired. It's cheaper to put the electronics in it then restore it to original... (factoring in that I have lots of computers lying around)

    I know computers, and I have installed a speaker system or two, but I've never put a computer into a car attached to computer speakers and all wired to a battery and monitor etc...

    So, below is my proposed set-up...

    If you think there is something I should add for safety purposes (fuses, regulators, etc) would you let me know please.

    Also, if this won't even work the way it is, you can let me know that too since I've tried to read as much as possible before posting and this is what I've figured out... (probably way off though)




    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Looks good, I use a different PS than the M4 but I assume it has a delayed output (12v) like mine. If so, this is a good place to trigger your amp if you do not want to use a toggle switch.

    Minor point, but if you do trigger the amp straight from the battery, don't forget to fuse that line nice & close to the battery just like your main 40amp line.

    I'm not sure how you came up with 40amps for the main feed because I don't know your amp but assuming you've done the math and it is correct; 8ga. wire is only going to be good up to about 10 feet of wire then it will be too light for the job. Even if it squeaks by in theory, you might be better off to use 4ga. right out of the gate to eliminate that as a possible problem when the system is done, also it will allow for future upgrades should you decide to upgrade the amp or add a second one.

    BTW, welcome to MP3car.com!
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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    • #3
      Originally posted by PhilG View Post
      Looks good, I use a different PS than the M4 but I assume it has a delayed output (12v) like mine. If so, this is a good place to trigger your amp if you do not want to use a toggle switch.

      Minor point, but if you do trigger the amp straight from the battery, don't forget to fuse that line nice & close to the battery just like your main 40amp line.

      I'm not sure how you came up with 40amps for the main feed because I don't know your amp but assuming you've done the math and it is correct; 8ga. wire is only going to be good up to about 10 feet of wire then it will be too light for the job. Even if it squeaks by in theory, you might be better off to use 4ga. right out of the gate to eliminate that as a possible problem when the system is done, also it will allow for future upgrades should you decide to upgrade the amp or add a second one.

      BTW, welcome to MP3car.com!
      PhilG,

      Thanks for the reply!

      I will switch to 4 guage wire, I haven't actually purchased the wire yet so that's an easy fix and i'll probably be adding something else later this summer.

      I will fuse right near the Battery, didn't know that where you fused mattered...

      Should I maybe fuse before my computer too? If so what amperage? (i'm searching right now for this answer, I think i saw some stuff about it somewhere in the forums or FAQs)
      Last edited by prostate05; 05-24-2011, 02:48 PM.

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      • #4
        Don't forget there's USB cable coming from the monitor to the computer too (if you have touchscreen). AFAIK, just fuse it close to the source and you should be fine. However, you'd also have to fuse the monitor, if you power it from the M4ATX (plenty of power to do that, and it's clean, regulated power).

        Pictures of the car+dash+carputer locations, please!
        Worklogs: 08 Sequoia Platinum Carputer (In Progress!)
        Skin: MetroSex on the Beach preview

        07 Infiniti Fx35 (done!) & 06 Infiniti M35 (gone...)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by RipplingHurst View Post
          Don't forget there's USB cable coming from the monitor to the computer too (if you have touchscreen). AFAIK, just fuse it close to the source and you should be fine. However, you'd also have to fuse the monitor, if you power it from the M4ATX (plenty of power to do that, and it's clean, regulated power).

          Pictures of the car+dash+carputer locations, please!
          I'm running 3 USB cables to the front of my car so I can plug in monitor,flash drives with new music, etc. as the computer is going to be in the trunk.

          What amp fuse should I put in between the power supply and the monitor?

          I'll put a few pictures of the car up in a second... I don't have any of the dash yet, but it's going to be made with MDF board and wrapped in black to match the interior of the car...

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          • #6
            Here are some pics of the car, and a video of it idling (sorry it's sideways)


            Day 1: Paint still on.





            Day 2: Lots of paint stripped off.



            Video: Idling in driveway

            http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/204/mo5.mp4/

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            • #7
              Are you planning on painting it also in your garage? or just the body work. Either way I think that it is awesome, can't wait to see this come along more.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by prostate05 View Post
                I'm running 3 USB cables to the front of my car so I can plug in monitor,flash drives with new music, etc. as the computer is going to be in the trunk.

                What amp fuse should I put in between the power supply and the monitor?

                I'll put a few pictures of the car up in a second... I don't have any of the dash yet, but it's going to be made with MDF board and wrapped in black to match the interior of the car...
                Very cool project!

                I'd use the same capacity as the one that came with your monitor cig ligther adapter, probably 5A or 10A. Don't remember which I use, I just took it from there.
                Worklogs: 08 Sequoia Platinum Carputer (In Progress!)
                Skin: MetroSex on the Beach preview

                07 Infiniti Fx35 (done!) & 06 Infiniti M35 (gone...)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by meryan00 View Post
                  Are you planning on painting it also in your garage? or just the body work. Either way I think that it is awesome, can't wait to see this come along more.
                  No way, I can't paint it, I'm bad at all that kind of stuff. I like to learn and try to get better at stuff, but I don't have the equipment to paint or the skills.

                  However, I'm a soccer coach, and one of my players that I've coached for the last 6 years (ages 11-17) is just completing a senior internship at a bodyshop/paintshop so he's helping me do the body work, and then he's going to take it up to his shop and paint it and it gets him something to practice on. It's a cool experience for him and I. And it's a little cheaper to pay him...

                  Btw, thanks RipplingHurst for the info.

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                  • #10
                    Hey prostate, what's the Chevelle got in it? I have a 72 LeMans that I'm restifying, and have an 04 GTO dash going in it that I want to set up a carputer in(very long project as I'm sure you know)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by piercedmikey View Post
                      Hey prostate, what's the Chevelle got in it? I have a 72 LeMans that I'm restifying, and have an 04 GTO dash going in it that I want to set up a carputer in(very long project as I'm sure you know)
                      It has the small block V8 in it. 350 5.7L My bro-in-law is going to do a few things to it to make it run a "little" better

                      I got lucky and it's not very rusted, so after we get it sanded down (almost finished) it'll get painted. and then I can add all the interior stuff. I'm waiting for them to do the outside first just so it doesn't get in the way. Going to start the dashboard in the next day or two... Paint job should start next Monday or Tuesday I hope...

                      I already have:

                      AMP
                      Computer + PSU
                      MDF Board
                      Monitor (arriving this thursday)
                      Speakers (arriving Friday)
                      Wires (arriving Wednesday)

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                      • #12
                        i always enjoy seeing old cars get updated with non-stock equipment.

                        the reason for the fuses on power wires is not really to protect the actual devices-- it is to protect the car.

                        worst case scenario:

                        the car gets mangled in a horrible wreck, with fuel spilling all over, and half of the car sheared in half-- if the fuse is correctly placed near the battery(iasca spec is 18", i prefer to keep it within 12" of the battery) as soon as the wire got sheered in the impact, the fuse would pop, preventing it from igniting the gas, and creating a even worse problem.

                        the best way to get your power cable fuse rating is to add up all the fuses on the devices your going to power, and install the closest-sized fuse to that equation.

                        and my handy-dandy power wire chart for getting the right power setup:
                        Last edited by soundman98; 05-25-2011, 05:02 PM.
                        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                        next project? subaru brz
                        carpc undecided

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
                          i always enjoy seeing old cars get updated with non-stock equipment.

                          the reason for the fuses on power wires is not really to protect the actual devices-- it is to protect the car.

                          worst case scenario:

                          the car gets mangled in a horrible wreck, with fuel spilling all over, and half of the car sheared in half-- if the fuse is correctly placed near the battery(iasca spec is 18", i prefer to keep it within 12" of the battery) as soon as the wire got sheered in the impact, the fuse would pop, preventing it from igniting the gas, and creating a even worse problem.

                          the best way to get your power cable fuse rating is to add up all the fuses on the devices your going to power, and install the closest-sized fuse to that equation.

                          and my handy-dandy power wire chart for getting the right power setup:
                          Makes sense, and I was reading up on all that electrical stuff. Ohms, Volts, Amps, blah blah blah. Bigger wirer has less resistance due to more electrons to pass current, etc. I think I understand it a little more now.

                          Thanks

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                          • #14
                            You may find this calculator useful!!
                            Never accept STOCK equipment.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by knownchild View Post
                              You may find this calculator useful!!
                              Interesting... Thanks for the link!

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