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Opus 150W and dead battery...?

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  • Opus 150W and dead battery...?

    I've been having mad problems with my Carputer ever since I put it in a few days ago. Before I go on I have to make one note: the IGN wire is split between my LCD, the head unit, and finally the Opus

    On day one, right after my friend and I finally got everything wired, we turned on the car battery (not the engine), turned on the stereo and the Opus 150W kicked on after about 10 seconds. Needless to say we were pumped since it was the first install. The computer probably ran for about 3 min before I turned the key to shut it down. Of course, being an Opus, it stayed on for about another 1/2 minute before shutting down the PC and going into standby. Later, when I tried to start the car...nothing. We jumped it, and I drove my friend home. When I got home, I unplugged the Opus.

    Day two: car starts fine in the morning. I plug the Opus in before I start it. I drive to work with the computer on. When I get to work I unplug it. After work, I plug the Opus back in, and drive home. I turn my car off (the Opus still being on) and run in my house for no more than 5 minutes. I come back to my car (the Opus is off at this point since I can't hear the fan, but it is still plugged in), put my key in, and wham...nothing. We had to jump my battery again.

    At this point, my only belief is that the Opus is still drawing power even in standby. The only reason I know it's going on standby is the fact that the the little LED was blinking once about every 2.5-3 seconds as it should be. I don't think it's my battery since I just bought this one 2 weeks ago (Die Hard Deep Cycle). Even in standby I wouldn't think the Opus would kill my battery in a matter of minutes. Anyone have any ideas?
    CarPC: 100%
    Software: 100%
    Amps/Subs: 0% (on hold)
    Fabrication: Need help!!! Someone in Boston area who can help me with this please send me a PM.

  • #2
    You're using a deep cycle battery as the only battery in your car???

    A deep cycle battery is for operating accessories over long periods of time. Then you put it on a charger. It's OK as a second battery in a system. Regular car batteries are built to start your car, after that the alternator kicks in and provides the power for all the electrical devices in your system when the car is running. When your car is running it recharges your battery so it starts up the next time. A deep cycle battery needs a long slow charge, that's way they are used for trolling motors.

    Try a regular car battery. I'm guessing that's your problem.

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    • #3
      as above plus standby still uses power, in some cases a lot of power. depending on mobo ans setup your memory,fans, and processor are all still powered in standby. If you don't want any power to be used then use hibernate. I am guessing your major problem though is your battery.
      Visit my site V8 Scimitar

      SP13000, 300GB SATA HD, 1GB DDR. Opus 150, K301 screen, Cisco WIFI, AQmax GPS, RoadRunner and FreeDrive, Sony MEX-R5 head unit. 4 years installed and it just keeps running!

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      • #4
        I double checked and it seems you're right. Everything I had been reading has been saying to use deep cycle batteries, especially if I am going to put in a heavy system. But here is the real question: if the alternator is providing the charge for the computer, the battery should still be getting enough charge since the computer should only draw a little over 13A and the alternator should be fine in providing that power, and charging the battery. I feel like, even if I put a starter battery back in, the opus would still kill the battery anyway. I also don't feel like spending more money on yet ANOTHER battery. Does anyone else use a deep cycle as their main battery?
        CarPC: 100%
        Software: 100%
        Amps/Subs: 0% (on hold)
        Fabrication: Need help!!! Someone in Boston area who can help me with this please send me a PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          deep cycle isn't meant to supply the huge amount of power you need to start your car. lets say you start the car and you use half the stored power. The battery needs to be charged a lot slower so although your alternator is running things the battery could take an hour to charge where a normal battery takes ten mins. The point of a deep cycle battery is you can run it almost flat and not damage the battery but do this on a normal battery and you will kill it in a very short amount of time. That's why people run deep cycle in a tank circuit and still have a normal battery for car starting and stuff.
          Visit my site V8 Scimitar

          SP13000, 300GB SATA HD, 1GB DDR. Opus 150, K301 screen, Cisco WIFI, AQmax GPS, RoadRunner and FreeDrive, Sony MEX-R5 head unit. 4 years installed and it just keeps running!

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          • #6
            OK, here's what I'm really worried about: I remember reading somewhere that the Opus cuts off completely when the voltage drops to about 11v. By this time, I wouldn't be able to start my car. Could this be the reason my car has been dying or is it due to the deep cycle battery?
            CarPC: 100%
            Software: 100%
            Amps/Subs: 0% (on hold)
            Fabrication: Need help!!! Someone in Boston area who can help me with this please send me a PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Are you letting the computer go into standby or hibernation? If standby, try hibernation and see what results you get. Your drawing too much power when the car is off, and since you mention you have no problems when the opus is unplugged, if you let the computer hibernate, it will act as if the opus is unplugged since the computer will not be drawing any power.
              98' Honda CR-V
              http://www.superbluecrv.com

              *OBDMPG, the RR OBD Plugin*

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              • #8
                Actually, come to think about it, each time the battery died I let Opus do its own thing (I believe it turns the comp completely off). I haven't tested it otherwise. I am going to play around with it a it and I will post the results tomorrow morning.
                CarPC: 100%
                Software: 100%
                Amps/Subs: 0% (on hold)
                Fabrication: Need help!!! Someone in Boston area who can help me with this please send me a PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I used to manage a Sears auto center. Trust me, it's the battery, go get another battery, this time get the proper one for your car. If you were to install a dual battery system, then it's a good idea to use a Deep cycle battery as the second battery, but it really only helps if you are using your accessories a lot when your car isn't running.

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                  • #10
                    Well, I think you guys may be on to something. Here's what happened yesterday: I left work and was driving home with the computer on. During the drive home, my head unit kept restarting which has NEVER happened to me before. I got home, pulled into my driveway, turned the car off and I noticed there was no lights when I opened the door. So I try to start the car and... nothing. So I'm BS, and I call my friend and we jump it, and it charges, and he reads it as 12.88v with a voltmeter, and, in one quick move, I take the computer out of the car and unplug the PSU.

                    This morning the car started fine. I'm driving listening to the radio. It restarted. So at this point I'm screaming inside my car cause I know my battery is dead. I turn off everything possible hoping that it'll charge with the last 10min I had to go to get to work (this is on the highway mind everyone, so it should be charging pretty well). I get to work, leave the car on for an extra few minutes to no avail...the car dies. At this point I'm really fed up, and if this isn't a battery issue then I have NO IDEA what the problem is . I'm going to have someone look at my wiring just in case over the weekend. If that's fine, that battery is going to be replaced.
                    CarPC: 100%
                    Software: 100%
                    Amps/Subs: 0% (on hold)
                    Fabrication: Need help!!! Someone in Boston area who can help me with this please send me a PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      hey dude when I meet up with you we can try switching your battery with the one from my car, its dead right now but we can charge it before we put it in, and if it works we can work something out where you can keep both batteries... let me know.
                      "Mess with the best, die like the rest."
                      Work Log --> Old Car (Totaled)
                      Work Log v2 --> New Car (Totaled)
                      Work Log v3 --> GMC Suburban K2500 (Engine died)
                      Work Log v4.5 --> 05 Toyota Tundra DC SR5

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                      • #12
                        That is if it fits...
                        "Mess with the best, die like the rest."
                        Work Log --> Old Car (Totaled)
                        Work Log v2 --> New Car (Totaled)
                        Work Log v3 --> GMC Suburban K2500 (Engine died)
                        Work Log v4.5 --> 05 Toyota Tundra DC SR5

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          it could be a ground cable somewhere, or the voltage regulator, get your alternator checked, the car should NOT shut off if the battery dies. you should be able to unhook the cables and pull the battery out while the car is running, and it will keep running, if not, its the alternator.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RMerritts View Post
                            it could be a ground cable somewhere, or the voltage regulator, get your alternator checked, the car should NOT shut off if the battery dies. you should be able to unhook the cables and pull the battery out while the car is running, and it will keep running, if not, its the alternator.
                            not necessarily, what he described wasn't his car shutting off but things in his car acting up as the power fades in and out. That is exactly what happened in my car when the cable between my alternator and battery went bad... lights dimming/not turning on, radios and computers acting up, and the car not starting after its been shutdown. Also since the battery did not have any real time to charge up in between the separate runnings of the car it became less and less charged resulting in more of the before mentioned problems even though there was no large power drain anymore. Its a pain in the *** and not always that easy to diagnose but none the less thats almost exactly what happened to me.
                            "Mess with the best, die like the rest."
                            Work Log --> Old Car (Totaled)
                            Work Log v2 --> New Car (Totaled)
                            Work Log v3 --> GMC Suburban K2500 (Engine died)
                            Work Log v4.5 --> 05 Toyota Tundra DC SR5

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              maybe his alternator cant handle the wattage, you CAN run a car without a battery for miles and miles and miles etc. until u shut it off, its there to power the starter and accessories pretty much, but that system is still putting a large load on the alternator.

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