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  • Another frustrated M2-ATX owner...

    I purchased an M2-ATX and an Ampie case for my 1st CarPC...
    I also bought a VIA EPIA MII12000, 1Gb of corsair Ram, and a 160GB 2.5" HDD.

    I am having the same issue I have read about here on the forums,
    Cable it all up according to the instructions, turn the ignition on, board powers up, CPU fan kicks on, Red LED on Ampie turns on, feels like HDD is spinning up, but alas, no Video and no POST beeps at all...

    I've tried a few diff things I read (whether I thought they made sense or not)

    Tried switching ATX cable, tried removing RAM and booting, tried switching polarity of cable running from P/S to MB power switch, tried diff P/S modes, including normal P/S mode with no jumper at all, all with the exact same result...

    I am getting pretty frustrated, and am thinking I may have gone with the Opus 120W, 250W, or the DSATX 220W....Just anything over the 120W is so expensive...

    Will either of the Opus P/S fit in the ampie case?
    Or am I gonna have to buy a new case too if I switch P/S?

    Man, I feel so close but so far away now...I got all this stuff, got my DWW-6500 installed...and looks like now I will have to spend more money, and wait for more stuff to ship to me...


  • #2
    Well does it work with a normal PSU?

    And you say you switched the ATX connector? HUH?! That is like asking for sudden death of a mobo. How did you even do that since it is keyed?
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    • #3
      Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
      Well does it work with a normal PSU?

      And you say you switched the ATX connector? HUH?! That is like asking for sudden death of a mobo. How did you even do that since it is keyed?


      I dont really have a spare PSU laying around to test with...

      And yeah, as unlikely as it seems, 2 or 3 people in another post on these forums said they were having the same issue and took their ATX cable, and switched the ends around and that worked for them (so the end with the molex connecter for the HDD was on the mobo side of the cable)...they are pinned out the same on both ends, so it shouldnt make a differance, but I am willing to try just about anything so I tried it...no luck tho...

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      • #4
        He doesn't mean switch the connector, he means using opposite ends of the wire bundle that goes from the PSU to the mobo. In my experience doing this does nothing. It's just wire. If it does work it's probably because it wasn't seated well to begin with.

        Sounds like you have a power issue to me. Mine did that when I was drawing too much 12v.

        You need to test this setup with a regular AC/DC PSU (something that wattage is dirt cheap, if not free) and hack it to feed the 12v into the M2 to make sure it's working. Get a PSU with at least 12 amps on the 12v rail to power your M2. My 250 (10a on 12v) has to be reset sometimes when I turn on my CarPC.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by crooper View Post
          You need to test this setup with a regular AC/DC PSU (something that wattage is dirt cheap, if not free) and hack it to feed the 12v into the M2 to make sure it's working.


          Just talked to someone here at work that is giving me a 250W AC/DC PSU tonight...I'm also picking up a multimeter today at lunch...

          I found this and will get to work on it tonite...
          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/faq-...workbench.html

          Can you give me a little more insight though as to what exactly I should be testing???

          All this is greatly appreciated...

          Comment


          • #6
            Hooking it up to your PSU via its ATX power connector will determine if your PC is working at all. If it works, then make a connector to the 12v (yellow) line to hook it up to your M2, to simulate power from a car battery. Doing both of these will help you determine if it's a problem with your PC or just your M2.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by crooper View Post
              Hooking it up to your PSU via its ATX power connector will determine if your PC is working at all. If it works, then make a connector to the 12v (yellow) line to hook it up to your M2, to simulate power from a car battery. Doing both of these will help you determine if it's a problem with your PC or just your M2.
              could you explain more on how to take a 12(yellow) from a normal atx psu and hook it up to an m2 atx to simulate car?

              you use a black ground and yellow power from a molex from powersupply to the m2 atx? what about the ignition lead on the m2 atx? we have to hook up another 12volt yellow from normal atx psu?

              thanks.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Snortonnorton View Post
                could you explain more on how to take a 12(yellow) from a normal atx psu and hook it up to an m2 atx to simulate car?

                you use a black ground and yellow power from a molex from powersupply to the m2 atx? what about the ignition lead on the m2 atx? we have to hook up another 12volt yellow from normal atx psu?

                thanks.
                No. You want to test the PC as if there was no M2. Just unplug the ATX wire from the board and plug in the PSU. You also want to plug your HD to the PSU as well. To start the PC, unplug the thin wire that runs from M2 to the on/off switch pins on the mobo (unplug the side that goes to M2) and use a paper clip to short the wires. If PC runs now, then M2 is the cause. If it does not, then your setup is at fault.
                Compaq Evo D510 e-PC - P4 2.0 - 512M RAM - 120G 3.5 HD - 7" Xenarc 700TSV - DSATX fitted nicely inside the PC case

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                • #9
                  OK...so it appears my issue may be the Mobo...

                  I got a reg ATX P/S and hooked it up...I also have a set of these (http://www.highspeedpc.com/Merchant2...ionAccessories)
                  I've had for years so I can have HDD/mobo power lights, and an actual power switch so i dont have to short the pins with a screwdriver or paperclip or whatever...

                  Same issue, when i hit the power button, the cpu fan on the mobo comes on and the mobo power light comes on, but no beeps, no video, and no hdd activity light...
                  I took the memory out to see if I could at least get it to POST, but still nothing...

                  I guess I will contact Newegg's support dept and see about a replacement mobo, unless anyone here has any further suggestions????

                  Thanks

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                  • #10
                    more than likely you shorted your motherboard when testing it in the car. The same thing happen to me. Mine was working just fine using a normal pc powersupply everything worked like a charm. Got my m2atx in and went outside to wire up according to instructions and it did the exact same thing yours is doing. So i disconnected it and took it back to my work bench plugged in my power supply from my desktop and it would not work again. I initially thought it was the ram or the bios chip cuz i was getting an error, but i replaced the bios chip and the ram and the same error kept showing. Everything except replacing the bios chip was done on the same day.

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                    • #11
                      If it works in the house, but not in the car, fans but no boot is usually an insufficient power issue.

                      If it does the same in the house, it's usually because the BIOS got zapped. Resetting the CMOS and/or taking out all but one ram stick usually fixes this. Sometimes if you really screw it up, you have to reflash the BIOS -- some newer motherboards have dual BIOSes for this reason.

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                      • #12
                        Well..I sent it back to Newegg for an RMA, but unfortunately they are now out of stock, and no telling when they will get more, so they just gave me a refund....looks like I will be ordering a new one from mp3car...

                        Also - crooper, I never got it working in the house or in the car...

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                        • #13
                          Just ordered a VIA EPIA SP13000G from here at Mp3Car....

                          Giving up the PCMCIA, but I can prob get my Sprint rep to swap my PCMCIA EVDO card for a USB version...

                          Hope this is the last big roadblock I have...I am dying to get this PC up and running....

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                          • #14
                            Well that sucks. I hope you get your next one working soon. I hate it when stuff doesn't work. Make sure you test it in the house first with the ATX PSU, so there's less chance of unknowingly screwing it up.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It seems that the first thing people are doing when they have a problem is posting a message that their M1 or M2 has broken or is defective. People then see a multitude of M1/M2 "problem" threads and think these PSUs are completely useless and full of problems when in fact it may be a completely different issue altogether.

                              I think there should be a sticky made for the correct procedure for getting your CarPC ready for installation through proper bench testing. Maybe I'll write one and see if people have other things to add/change.

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