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  • Fitting ring terminals for earth / power connections

    Ring terminals are a great way to get power from your battery or an earth at some point for your equipment, but if the connection is no good, you can run into all kinds of problems, I just had to fight a right monster of a job as some previous technician had done a wonderful job of crimping a wire by its insulation, which then came loose...


    While it may seem common sense to some people how to fit a crimp terminal, I like to solder them, so here goes....





    1) First strip and prepare ends of wires, don't forget to side plastic barrel over wires now!








    2) Apply some solder to the wires, and then crimp into the connector









    3) Apply more solder to the ring terminal, it should 'run' into the voids around the wire









    4) slide plastic barrel over connection and clamp, its now secure for life.



    Lez, more widely known as flez1966

  • #2
    I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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    • #3
      Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
      I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.
      +1 for heatshrink. Allthough I am guilty of using duct tape for some of those temporary connections.
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      • #4
        +2 for heatshrink.
        Old Systems retired due to new car
        New system at design/prototype stage on BeagleBoard.

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        • #5
          +3 for heat shrink.
          TruckinMP3
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          • #6
            Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
            I would take the extra step of using electrical tape or heatshrink tubing (preferred) over the plastic barrel for an additional layer of protection. The plastic barrels have a tendency to slide back and forth along the wire.
            That should not happen, as the barrel should be crimped, reducing its size so it cant move back over the thicker part of the terminal, but yes, I do agree some of them dont behave as they should and if you have some heatshrink, ditch the barrel piece altogether and just heat shrink it.
            Lez, more widely known as flez1966

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            • #7
              that is the worst or close to crimping i have ever seen
              DONT use side cutters or plyers to crimp, spend (here in nz) $70 for the proper crimp ratchet controlled hand tool
              you dont have to remove the sleeve to get solder to flow up the terminal, a good iron with heat will make it flow
              i use a ratchet crimp tool for work just about every day cept weekends and never had any problems

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              • #8
                Originally posted by FUBAR_NZL View Post
                that is the worst or close to crimping i have ever seen

                Nice to see for only your third post on here you having a knock noob.....


                1) I crimped it with the side cutters I admit, reason, they were to hand, it applies pressure in a thin solid line, just what you want with a crimp, not a broad area that reduces the amount of pressure, like you get with most $5 crimp tools, dont go even thinking of telling people to but $70 tools, its never going to happen among a group of people that are into self build.

                I had a guy the other day telling me how good a mechanic he was as all his tools were snapon, makes no difference where the tools come form, its whose hands they are in that makes the difference.


                2) its a 5c connector, If you dont move the sleeve up the wire, it melts. Doh!
                Lez, more widely known as flez1966

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by lez View Post
                  That should not happen, as the barrel should be crimped, reducing its size so it cant move back over the thicker part of the terminal, but yes, I do agree some of them dont behave as they should and if you have some heatshrink, ditch the barrel piece altogether and just heat shrink it.
                  I agree with DP. Electrical tape is very easy and makes sure it is secure. Solder does not always adhere well and connections can break. Thick layer of electrical tape prevents bendage. Nice job of soldering though.

                  Don't you need a special heat gun for heatshrink?
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by WiCKeD 5.9L View Post
                    Solder does not always adhere well and connections can break. Thick layer of electrical tape prevents bendage. Nice job of soldering though.
                    yes its 30 years of practice, which is why it does adhere well and does not break!

                    Once I had to solder some wires into a cabinet, all bared ends were to be 6mm in length and tinned for 4mm, the insulation of the wire must not show signs of heat at the end.

                    Once all the wires were prepared and passed, they had to be soldered into the board.

                    I hated those hundreds of wires I had to do...........


                    Don't you need a special heat gun for heatshrink?

                    Any old heat gun will do, but the original way is to hold the shrink above the soldering iron, because when heatshrink first came out, hot air guns were not around and took some finding.

                    Of course if you did it that way now, you would get hundreds of posts about how you were doing it wrong........
                    Lez, more widely known as flez1966

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by WiCKeD 5.9L View Post
                      Don't you need a special heat gun for heatshrink?
                      No. Any heat gun will work.
                      I actually use the heat from the soldering iron tip.
                      Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                      How about the Wiki?



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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by lez View Post
                        Of course if you did it that way now, you would get hundreds of posts about how you were doing it wrong........
                        I do it with the soldering iron. Or I use a match if I am somewhere it is difficult to get power to. I'm going to hell, aren't I?

                        Personally I do not tin before crimping either, just solder afterwards. I think everyone has their own techniques.
                        Old Systems retired due to new car
                        New system at design/prototype stage on BeagleBoard.

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                        • #13
                          I like the large hammer & concrete floor method myself.

                          Who needs a crimper.

                          Though you do have to be careful because if you just hit it at the same angle, it will just bow out and be pretty useless. Then glob the thing with solder, and duct tape or heatshrink around it.

                          And I actually do have a heatgun used to unwrinkle the skin on my RC plane that gets plenty hot, but I usually use a lighter. I dont smoke at all, but I have accumulated like 50 lighters of various styles from el cheapo gas station lighters to this stainless stell looking lighter. I dont really know how I got them all.
                          Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                          1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                          30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                          15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lez View Post
                            Nice to see for only your third post on here you having a knock noob.....


                            1) I crimped it with the side cutters I admit, reason, they were to hand, it applies pressure in a thin solid line, just what you want with a crimp, not a broad area that reduces the amount of pressure, like you get with most $5 crimp tools, dont go even thinking of telling people to but $70 tools, its never going to happen among a group of people that are into self build.

                            I had a guy the other day telling me how good a mechanic he was as all his tools were snapon, makes no difference where the tools come form, its whose hands they are in that makes the difference.


                            2) its a 5c connector, If you dont move the sleeve up the wire, it melts. Doh!
                            using the right tool always does the job right in the right hands
                            if you are melting the sleeve then the person is using a soldering iron to hot or not soldering correctly
                            Alot of people solder by putting the solder onto tip and think it shold flow incorrect, tin tip of gun, the put tip onto the area to be soldered and put solder directly onto work
                            http://www.ee.ryerson.ca:8080/~jkoch/soldering.html
                            also you sholdnt twist wiring with your hands if going to solder as oil and fat from your fingers can prevent solder from flowing
                            the $70 tool here in nz so other places shold be hell of alot cheaper, very handy as they crimp 3 diff sizes, if you dont lose it you will keep it for years

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                            • #15
                              Yes but you also have to do a cost analysis. Same reason why most of us buy our own parts and assemble the PC that way.

                              If you do like 2-3 connections, that is $70/3 so $23 per connection. Now if you do this alot, then $70/n, gets smaller and smaller as n increases. So if you can use a hammer and a soldering iron to get the same results although it may take more work, or not look as pretty , then why not. If you already have the tools, then use them. Be creative. Tool A can work with Part A, and Tool B can work with Part B, but if you try hard enough you can get a flat head to work in a phillips or square head screw.
                              Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                              1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                              30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                              15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                              Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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