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Drained Battery...AGAIN!

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  • Drained Battery...AGAIN!

    I have an AOpen MiniPC (MP945-X), Xenarc 1040TS (10.4" LCD) along with a Carnetix P1900 to power it all. I have various things hooked up via USB and all runs fine. The problem is, if I leave the car sitting for more than overnight, the battery is completely drained. I came out to the car this morning, the computer and lcd were off, but the P1900 was still on. When I tried to turn the key, it wouldn't even turn the engine...just click-click-click-click. I had to get a jump just to get to work. I've checked all the connections, I've checked that my battery is being properly charged by my alternator, the system just seems to kickin' my butt with this power issue. I've updated the firmware to the P1900, set it for hibernate, and a very short deadman time. I'm out of ideas and I'm almost ready to sell this thing for an integrated system. The P1900 using ACPI doesn't seem to work well for me. Anyone else have this sort of setup?

  • #2
    have you tride to switch the system of instead of hybernate.

    Otherwise you could use a relais inbetween the cpc and the battery, switched bij the ignition or something.
    Cold weather mobo list: Copy the list and add your board
    my hidden screen in action (youtube) , the worklog , RR Volvoskin

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    • #3
      I have the EXACT same problem NekkidRidr!!! Only difference, is I'm running a Mac mini and a Lilliput 629 in my 2000 Jetta. My battery is only 6 months old. I've had Sears check the battery, alternator and entire charging system (as well as testing for shorts), and everything checks out ok. This is seriously bothering me. I suspect that the deadman timer is not working properly, even though I've checked 3 times to make sure the entire P1900 is properly jumpered. If the deadman timer were working, we wouldn't be getting dead batteries, right?

      Sorry, I don't have any help, I just wanted to let you know that I share your pain. I'm going to look into getting a Yellow Top Optima battery, and/or a more powerful alternator. I wonder if Mike from Carnetix can shed any light on the subject.
      iDub Status:

      99.99% -- It's alive!!!...the extra .01% is because it'll never be completely "done."

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      • #4
        thanassius, is your P1900 shutting off after about 1 minute of taking out the key? If not, you might have the IGN line into the p1900 hooked up to a line that is powered when the car is off. I hooked my ign line up to the accessory port, but I had to make sure that it wasnt powered when my key was removed.
        CarPC status:

        [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Complete
        [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Installed
        [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Software

        CarPC v1.2 is now in effect. Software updates and hardware additions to come.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the tip. It's wired to a switched ignition line and properly shuts down after 1 minute.

          After some more deep thought (had to jump it twice this morning to get to work), I think my problems might have something to do with the car's electrical system. I took it to the VW dealer for service in August. I removed the Mac mini, and disconnected the power at the battery before leaving it with them. I went to pick up the car the next evening and it was dead, they had to jump it to get it going. The car died on me again the next morning, and I've been having these problems ever since. They deny any wrong doing, and everything passes every test it's ever had since then.

          Whenever my battery runs completely down, I wait a few days before connecting the computer to give the battery time to charge up again, but if I leave it un-driven for more than 12 hours, it dies again :-/
          iDub Status:

          99.99% -- It's alive!!!...the extra .01% is because it'll never be completely "done."

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          • #6
            Is it dying even when the P1900 hasnt been connected for days? I mean, if the car still dies and the mini/screen arent even hooked into the electrical system, then yes, its strictly the VW, but if it only dies when the P1900 is hooked up, it is beyond my (very limited) knowledge.
            CarPC status:

            [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Complete
            [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Installed
            [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Software

            CarPC v1.2 is now in effect. Software updates and hardware additions to come.

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            • #7
              I assume you know about the brake light relay recall.

              http://www.autoblog.com/2007/02/26/b...-000-vehicles/
              'The possibility exists that brake light switches in these vehicles may have been installed wrong, which could lead to their remaining on all the time'

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              • #8
                I do, thanks. In fact, they told me they were going to do the recall work since they had the car. You know what, that might be a good place to start. I'll have them check their records because I was almost positive it had been done a few months prior (unless there's two similar recalls?). Thanks for the tip billmee!
                iDub Status:

                99.99% -- It's alive!!!...the extra .01% is because it'll never be completely "done."

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                • #9
                  KryptonianJorel--The first time it happened, the Carputer wasn't connected to the electrical system. Second time yes, but it died because the battery didn't have time to fully charge up. Third time yes, because I left it sitting in the garage with the computer in sleep mode for about 36 hours. The last two times, no the computer has not been connected when the battery has died.

                  My theory is that before I took it to VW, the drain that the computer was causing to the battery was a healthy level, and something I could operate normally with, as I did for about three months. After taking it to VW (and them possibly messing up the recall mentioned above), something else in the car not related to the carputer is constantly pulling current from the battery, and this pull, coupled with the pull from the carputer, is too much for it to handle, and it keeps killing the battery.

                  I'll take it to a different VW dealer (I won't go back to the one I went to last time, they've wronged me too many times in the past) and have them check the electrical system, specifically the brake light relay. When they come back to me and say nothing is wrong, then I guess my only other option is to re-investigate my setup AGAIN, and/or upgrade to a Yellow Top battery and/or a better alternator.

                  Thanks for all the help everyone.
                  iDub Status:

                  99.99% -- It's alive!!!...the extra .01% is because it'll never be completely "done."

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                  • #10
                    Good Idea. Yeah, its not the carputer than. Let us know how it works out!
                    CarPC status:

                    [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Complete
                    [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Installed
                    [XXXXXXXXXX] 100% Software

                    CarPC v1.2 is now in effect. Software updates and hardware additions to come.

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                    • #11
                      Trouble shooting tips

                      You should try to find the problem before you change the battery or alternator.
                      If you do not have a meter I'd suggest getting a clamp meter capable of reading DC amps.

                      Sears has this one for $60 ;
                      http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...69000&sLevel=0


                      Using it you can isolate the different branches coming from the battery and find out exactly where the current is going. Fix that then decide if you battery is no good.

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                      • #12
                        I doubt that meter is sensitive enough...

                        Just disconnect the mass cable and put a cheap multimeter (on amp) between the neg pole and the cable. If it draws more than a few mA you have a problem.

                        Then you can try pulling out fuses to see where the problem lies...

                        Good luck!
                        Joachim
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                        XTroniC | XTroniC Direct

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                        • #13
                          with your pc and everything that goes with it disconnected, pull the pos terminal on the battery and put a test light in series there. if it lights up you have a current draw. start pulling fuses in the fuse box until the light goes out. you'll find which circuit is drawing the current. if the light is real dim that may be all right. if it is bright you have a real draw there. good luck!
                          99.9% complete.

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                          • #14
                            Hello,

                            I'm having the same drained battery issue with a Carnetx P2140 that I have set to shutdown my PC. I've added an on/off rocker switch between the 2140 its constant DC power and have been manually shutting down the the 2140 after PC shuts down.

                            So good so far 4 days and no drained battery I'll continue to test manually shutting off 2140 with the rocker switch and post results. The initial results seem point to the 2140 draining the battery even though it's set to shutdown after key is removed from the ignition.
                            My Install

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                            • #15
                              i would recommed hooking the power adapter up to an iginition cable which is only active when your key is turned. THis has the downside that if u forget to turn of your pc it will just have no juice.

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