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Are my PC and monitor drawing too much power for the P2140 can handles?

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  • Are my PC and monitor drawing too much power for the P2140 can handles?

    Hi I am running a 12V car battery and a P2140. My PC requires 19.5V and 7.1A fo run and my monitor requires 12V and 1.5A. I think the current is exceed and that's why the 2140 cuts off my power.

    Is there any way to still use the 2140 by adding additional devices like a relay or transformers to boast up the current?

  • #2
    Originally posted by XMatrix View Post
    Hi I am running a 12V car battery and a P2140. My PC requires 19.5V and 7.1A fo run and my monitor requires 12V and 1.5A. I think the current is exceed and that's why the 2140 cuts off my power.
    the specs for the P2140 indicate that it can output 20v @ 7.5A so you may be pushing that. I'd think it would be OK....
    If you're using the 12v addition for the screen, it can push 12v @ 3A, so your screen should be a non-issue as far as that goes.

    Is there any way to still use the 2140 by adding additional devices like a relay or transformers to boast up the current?
    Not that I am aware of.
    Neither a transformer nor a relay will boost the output voltages or amperage.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
      the specs for the P2140 indicate that it can output 20v @ 7.5A so you may be pushing that. I'd think it would be OK....
      If you're using the 12v addition for the screen, it can push 12v @ 3A, so your screen should be a non-issue as far as that goes.


      Not that I am aware of.
      Neither a transformer nor a relay will boost the output voltages or amperage.

      Hi DarquePervert, could you explain "it can output 20v @ 7.5A so you may be pushing that". What do you mean by "pushing it"? The P2140 as far as I know is that it limits 7.5A for 20V so with the PC and the monitor will consume a total 7.5A + 1.5A = 9A. I believe that that is the reason the P2140 shuts down.

      What I think is that if I can boost up the input 12V to 24V using a 24V relay or power booster or something. Because according to the specs 24V can actually output 11A so I think that the above solution should be able to work.

      What do you think?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by XMatrix View Post
        Hi DarquePervert, could you explain "it can output 20v @ 7.5A so you may be pushing that". What do you mean by "pushing it"? The P2140 as far as I know is that it limits 7.5A for 20V so with the PC and the monitor will consume a total 7.5A + 1.5A = 9A. I believe that that is the reason the P2140 shuts down.
        The 7.1A that your system draws is close to the 7.5A that is the max output of the P2140. That's called "pushing it". In other words, you're close to max capacity.

        Kinda like when the fat guy (me!) tries to squeeze into an already crowded elevator and you hear the cables creaking above you...

        Question...
        Are you powering the LCD from the secondary output of the P2140 or are you powering it from a HDD power connector?
        If you're using a HDD power connector, then you're probably trying to draw more than the P2140 can output. That's why you'd need to use the secondary power output from the P2140 for your LCD.

        What I think is that if I can boost up the input 12V to 24V using a 24V relay or power booster or something. Because according to the specs 24V can actually output 11A so I think that the above solution should be able to work.

        What do you think?
        I think that's a waste of time & effort.
        The P2140 can accept 24v input, but it's not going to output any more than it is rated for.
        Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
        How about the Wiki?



        Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi many thankx for your reply. I am using the secondary output to power the LCD. (May I know what is HDD power connector?)

          As for the 24V input, allow me to explain. The max output the 12V input can provide is only 7.5A whereas a 24V input can output max 11A. So that's why I think that a 24V relay that draw in 12V input and output 24V to power the P2140 can give an 11A that should can power the PC and LCD.

          What do you think?

          Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
          The 7.1A that your system draws is close to the 7.5A that is the max output of the P2140. That's called "pushing it". In other words, you're close to max capacity.

          Kinda like when the fat guy (me!) tries to squeeze into an already crowded elevator and you hear the cables creaking above you...

          Question...
          Are you powering the LCD from the secondary output of the P2140 or are you powering it from a HDD power connector?
          If you're using a HDD power connector, then you're probably trying to draw more than the P2140 can output. That's why you'd need to use the secondary power output from the P2140 for your LCD.


          I think that's a waste of time & effort.
          The P2140 can accept 24v input, but it's not going to output any more than it is rated for.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by XMatrix View Post
            Hi many thankx for your reply. I am using the secondary output to power the LCD. (May I know what is HDD power connector?)
            The power connector for a hard drive. It's also commonly called a 4-pin molex connector, although Molex is actually a brand name.

            As for the 24V input, allow me to explain. The max output the 12V input can provide is only 7.5A whereas a 24V input can output max 11A. So that's why I think that a 24V relay that draw in 12V input and output 24V to power the P2140 can give an 11A that should can power the PC and LCD.
            OK. I see in the manual where the P2140 has this capability.
            Where do you intend to draw 24v to power the P2140? A 24v relay is not going to provide the continuous 24v you need for what you want to do. it merely has the capability of switching a 24v power line.
            Passenger vehicles are typically 12v systems, while heavy equipment may be a 24v or 36v system.
            Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
            How about the Wiki?



            Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
              OK. I see in the manual where the P2140 has this capability.
              Where do you intend to draw 24v to power the P2140? A 24v relay is not going to provide the continuous 24v you need for what you want to do. it merely has the capability of switching a 24v power line.
              Passenger vehicles are typically 12v systems, while heavy equipment may be a 24v or 36v system.

              What I heard from my mechanic is that a 24V relay is able to take an input of 12V and output 24V which I am going to use to input to the P2140 so that the output will be 11A. This relay will be used just before the 12V battery.

              What do you think?

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi I have used the PSUmoni application. I have attached the screen shot before the Acer PC starts. However, my Samsung laptop (the one I used to test and monitor) runs out of battery before I could take a screen shot when the Acer PC starts.

                Anyway I have attached the readings when my Acer PC draws power from the battery.

                Battery output voltage changes constantly after the Acer PC starts. The range is from 9.5V to 11.5V. Output amp is 7.5A

                Primary output voltage is 18.6V and 2.4A

                Secondary output is 9.9V and 0.3A

                I changed some settings on the P2140 and the P2140 doesnt shuts down after I changed the "LO_BAT" to 9.0V. I suspected that when I on the Acer PC, the battery voltage drops below the default voltage of the LO_BAT of 11.8V. That's why the P2140 shuts down.

                However, even after I set the "LO_BAT" to 9.0V, the Primary output amp drops to 0.1A even though the voltage remains at 18.6V. This happens after 2 mins into the startup. Note that the P2140 doesnt shut down this time but the Primary output amp just drops.

                Could you tell me what's wrong

                I am thinking of whether is it because I do not have a voltage stabliser, that's why the battery voltage changes so much. Could a voltage stabliser solves the problem?

                Also I am thinking of another solution - Use a 12V to 24V transformer and put it between the battery and P2140 input so that the P2140 has a 24V input. I am thinking that based on the configurations, the Primary output amp could raise up to 11A.

                What do you think?
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is nothing wrong with your setup. You are hopelessly confused about how voltage and amperage work.

                  You car's alternator puts out a certain voltage. This voltage fluctuates quite a bit, between 9.5V and 11.5V in your car. This is related to both speed of the alternator and the load of other electrical devices in your car. Not only is this normal, but you can see why you need a power supply for your car PC. It doesn't like fluctuating voltage.

                  As you can also see, the 2140 is doing an excellent job of transforming fluctuating input voltage into stable, smooth, clean 18.6V into the computer while simultaneously outputting 9.9V on the secondary. Perfect.

                  As for the amperage fluctuating, that is also normal. This represents the load your PC is putting on the power supply. That load is usually highest upon startup when everything is getting up and running. Shortly afterward, it will usually drop to a lower amperage.

                  Multiplying volts X amps will yield the wattage, or total amount of electricity your system is drawing. For you, this is:

                  Primary - 18.6V X 2.4A = 44.64 watts
                  Secondary - 9.9V X .3A = 2.97 watts
                  Total load: 47.61 watts

                  The secondary output drops to .1A after 2 minutes, that means it is drawing: 18.6V X .1A = 1.86 watts which is possible, I guess, but sounds like the screen has shut off.

                  Adding a 24 volt relay to your car doesn't magically transform the voltage of the car to 24 volts. What that 24 volts means is that in order for the relay to work, you need 24 volts to make it work. Your car is not a 24 volt system because the PSU monitor screenshot you posted showed the battery at 12 volts.

                  Question - Are you starting the car when you test the computer? Sometimes your battery is not hefty enough to supply the power for the system unless the car is running.

                  Remember - a battery is an energy storage device. It stores electrical energy. In a car, the sole purpose of the battery is to start the engine. After that, the car's alternator supplies electrical energy to the car, including recharging the battery to allow the car to start again. Thus, you should test your system with the car running.
                  Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                  I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                  Want to:
                  -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                  -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Bugbyte, thankx for your sharing. I admit that I do not have the knowledge how the car battery works. Appreicate if you can provide a solution to the problem.

                    I did start the Acer PC after I start the car but the same thing happens again during start up when the Amp drops to 0.1A and the Acer PC gets shut off.

                    I am not going to use the 24V relay anymore BUT I am thinking of using the 12V to 24V transformer to supply to the P2140. This is because according to Carnetix, a 24V is able to output a 11A output whereas a 12V is only able to output a 7.5A. The total Amp for my PC and screen is 7.1A + 1.5A = 8.6A. That's why I think I should increase the 24V input.

                    What do you think? Any other solutions you feel is better?


                    Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                    There is nothing wrong with your setup. You are hopelessly confused about how voltage and amperage work.

                    You car's alternator puts out a certain voltage. This voltage fluctuates quite a bit, between 9.5V and 11.5V in your car. This is related to both speed of the alternator and the load of other electrical devices in your car. Not only is this normal, but you can see why you need a power supply for your car PC. It doesn't like fluctuating voltage.

                    As you can also see, the 2140 is doing an excellent job of transforming fluctuating input voltage into stable, smooth, clean 18.6V into the computer while simultaneously outputting 9.9V on the secondary. Perfect.

                    As for the amperage fluctuating, that is also normal. This represents the load your PC is putting on the power supply. That load is usually highest upon startup when everything is getting up and running. Shortly afterward, it will usually drop to a lower amperage.

                    Multiplying volts X amps will yield the wattage, or total amount of electricity your system is drawing. For you, this is:

                    Primary - 18.6V X 2.4A = 44.64 watts
                    Secondary - 9.9V X .3A = 2.97 watts
                    Total load: 47.61 watts

                    The secondary output drops to .1A after 2 minutes, that means it is drawing: 18.6V X .1A = 1.86 watts which is possible, I guess, but sounds like the screen has shut off.

                    Adding a 24 volt relay to your car doesn't magically transform the voltage of the car to 24 volts. What that 24 volts means is that in order for the relay to work, you need 24 volts to make it work. Your car is not a 24 volt system because the PSU monitor screenshot you posted showed the battery at 12 volts.

                    Question - Are you starting the car when you test the computer? Sometimes your battery is not hefty enough to supply the power for the system unless the car is running.

                    Remember - a battery is an energy storage device. It stores electrical energy. In a car, the sole purpose of the battery is to start the engine. After that, the car's alternator supplies electrical energy to the car, including recharging the battery to allow the car to start again. Thus, you should test your system with the car running.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      In your first post, you said that the PC requires 7.1 amps. How do you know this? Does the PCUmon program allow you to log the specs? If so, start the PC and log the primary and secondary draws until the PC shuts down. You need to find out if the 2140 is causing your PC to shutdown or if the PC is shutting down by itself for some reason.

                      You are running very close to the max for your PC. One thing you could try is disconnecting the stuff inside the Acer that you don't need, like sound card and CD/DVD drive and any extra drives you may have inside. Also, disconnect the screen from the power supply and run it from an electrical outlet or the cigarette lighter. Then try booting it up the PC. If it boots and runs in a minimum configuration, then you'll know that you are drawing too much power from the supply.

                      Just to check, it works just fine on a regular benchtop power supply that plugs into the wall, right?

                      It think that the drop to .1 amps is just what the draw of the machine is when it is off.

                      If you are drawing too much power for the 2140 in the 12 volt configuration, you have two options:

                      1. Try it at 24 volts, as you have suggested
                      2. Abandon the 2140 and go to something with more power like an inverter

                      Both options require additional hardware and you are *close* to the limit for the 2140 (From your first post: 19.5V X 7.1A = 138.5 watts for the Acer + 12V X 1.5A = 18 for the screen, total of 156 watts on a 185 watt device)
                      Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                      I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                      Want to:
                      -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                      -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The Acer Veriton requires 19.5V and 7.1 amps. I know this because the power brick says so. As for the PSU program, well, I did use it but the Acer barely gets to the login page before the amp drops to 0.1A. I have ran the Acer from my home and it works just perfect. So I rule out the Acer as faulty.

                        Your suggestion to disconnect the sound card and DVD drive would not be possible on the Acer because, it is already in its most compact form. Unlike a conventional PC where you can open up the PC casing, for this PC, I cant do that. Well I dont know if merely uninstalling the driver would enable the bootup of my PC to draw less amp but I seriously doubt it.

                        I did also just ran the PC without connecting the screen to the P2140 and it still doesnt get pass to the login page. A short note - merely power the Econon monitor without the PC does not have any problem at all.

                        I have already emailed and posted my problem up with Mike from carnetix but they are known for their slowness in replying. Probably due to the festive season.

                        I am inclined to go for the invertor and probably use my P2140 for something else (though I really dont know what other stuff I can really power in a car). The 24V option requires a second battery which will shorten the lifespan of the alternator. That is something I dont really wish to explore.

                        Of course, if you have any other options that can boost up my output current to 7.1A (Acer PC) + 1.5A (Econon monitor) using just the 12V battery, I would greatly appreciate your help


                        Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                        In your first post, you said that the PC requires 7.1 amps. How do you know this? Does the PCUmon program allow you to log the specs? If so, start the PC and log the primary and secondary draws until the PC shuts down. You need to find out if the 2140 is causing your PC to shutdown or if the PC is shutting down by itself for some reason.

                        You are running very close to the max for your PC. One thing you could try is disconnecting the stuff inside the Acer that you don't need, like sound card and CD/DVD drive and any extra drives you may have inside. Also, disconnect the screen from the power supply and run it from an electrical outlet or the cigarette lighter. Then try booting it up the PC. If it boots and runs in a minimum configuration, then you'll know that you are drawing too much power from the supply.

                        Just to check, it works just fine on a regular benchtop power supply that plugs into the wall, right?

                        It think that the drop to .1 amps is just what the draw of the machine is when it is off.

                        If you are drawing too much power for the 2140 in the 12 volt configuration, you have two options:

                        1. Try it at 24 volts, as you have suggested
                        2. Abandon the 2140 and go to something with more power like an inverter

                        Both options require additional hardware and you are *close* to the limit for the 2140 (From your first post: 19.5V X 7.1A = 138.5 watts for the Acer + 12V X 1.5A = 18 for the screen, total of 156 watts on a 185 watt device)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sounds like you should get the inverter. I understand that the Coleman inverter is a good one.

                          One last thing to try. Disconnect the ACPI line from the 2140. Start the car. Start the PC manually using the power button. See if it starts and stays running. It is possible that your PC is getting a shutdown signal from the 2140 shortly after startup.

                          If that is not the case, you can get the inverter and still use the 2140 to power the PC on and off via the ACPI. You should also use it to power the screen to supply clean power to it.
                          Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                          I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                          Want to:
                          -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                          -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You are talking about using the green and white cable to solder on to the motherboard of the PC rite? I am not using the ACPI cable to start the PC at all. What I have connect is the power cable as well as the yellow cable for the ignition startup.

                            How would the invertor be used in conjunction will the P2140? Where do I place it? My understanding of this device is that it inverts the DC to AC. Therefore I would place this device rite after the output of the P2140 and then connect the invertor's output to the power brick which will then be use to power my PC rite?

                            As for the monitor, I guess the P2140 secondary output should be able to power the screen without getting a second invertor rite?

                            Many thankx for your help.


                            Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                            Sounds like you should get the inverter. I understand that the Coleman inverter is a good one.

                            One last thing to try. Disconnect the ACPI line from the 2140. Start the car. Start the PC manually using the power button. See if it starts and stays running. It is possible that your PC is getting a shutdown signal from the 2140 shortly after startup.

                            If that is not the case, you can get the inverter and still use the 2140 to power the PC on and off via the ACPI. You should also use it to power the screen to supply clean power to it.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by XMatrix View Post
                              You are talking about using the green and white cable to solder on to the motherboard of the PC rite? I am not using the ACPI cable to start the PC at all. What I have connect is the power cable as well as the yellow cable for the ignition startup.
                              I'm not sure what kind of Acer you have. Most PC's have a jumper location on the motherboard and you replace that with the green ACPI wire. If you aren't using it, then my previous suggestion doesn't matter. You've already tried it.

                              Originally posted by XMatrix View Post
                              How would the invertor be used in conjunction will the P2140? Where do I place it? My understanding of this device is that it inverts the DC to AC. Therefore I would place this device rite after the output of the P2140 and then connect the invertor's output to the power brick which will then be use to power my PC rite?
                              You don't hook the two together. Just connect the inverter to your battery, then plug in your power supply to the inverter.

                              You can use the 2140 to supply power to your monitor. You don't have to change anything from your current setup. Just keep the monitor connected, and disconnect the PC from the 2140 and use the inverter instead. This gives you the advantage of having a power supply for the monitor that filters the current from your alternator and provides steady power to it.
                              Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                              I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                              Want to:
                              -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                              -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

                              Comment

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