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AC - 12v DC Converter For Testing

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  • AC - 12v DC Converter For Testing

    Hi all--

    Not completely sure how to categorize this inquiry, but I'm interested in an AC - 12v DC converter that will allow me to safely power all of my car components in the house using mains AC as the ultimate source. The interest here is in testing ALL components to make sure my setup works under simulated 12v battery connection before installing it in the car.

    Here is what I wish to power under simulated car battery condition, in the house:

    1. P1900 (to which is to be connected an Intel Mac Mini and VGA-RGBS scan converter. The Mac will have connected to it a USB hub, USB screen coordinate converter board, USB wireless keyboard dongle, and USB audio adapter)
    2. Factory NAV system, which includes RGBS monitor and 6-disc CD changer
    3. Three 12VDC relays

    My interest is in finding an AC-DC converter that delivers safe, sufficient power to the above setup, in the correct voltage-- That which basically acts like the entire system is connected to my car's battery. I cannot stress enough that this needs to be a safe power supply, as the components to be powered are far too expensive and valuable to risk blowing.

    Thanks for your thoughts on the matter, everyone.

  • #2
    Just use a regular power supply inside the house for testing purposes.

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    • #3
      Yeah u simply need a power supply of maybe minimum 3-5 Amps. I have this one here that I had for years.

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      • #4
        http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/advf...iew&advfaqid=4

        Explains it all.
        Jan Bennett
        FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

        Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

        Comment


        • #5
          What if you were to buy two lantern batteries from the local sporting goods store. Wire them up in series so that you have 12 volts? They may not last long, which would be the only problem. You might be better off trying to find a 12v battery from a "Power Wheels" vehicle. They'd be cheaper than the $100 supply the above link is suggesting, and I'm sure they'd power a computer for hours.
          03 Accord Sedan CarPC

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          • #6
            Thanks Very Kindly!

            Thanks very much for your help in this matter, all-- I hope not to be too much of a noob in this regard-- I'm just really concerned about protecting the components I need to work with. They constitute considerable $$ !

            I'll likely go the route of PC power supply. I have one on hand already, and with some minor modification it appears such a thing will suit this need perfectly (and inexpensively, to boot-- A great thing if you haven't ample financial reserve, such as I! ).

            Tallyho!

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            • #7
              just use the a computer's PSU

              or buy a cheap 300W computer PSU and if you jumper the right pins on the ATX plug you can use it as a 12 and 5v power supply. just tap into one of the plugs for the hard drives and take the 12V side of that. as shown in the link above

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              • #8
                Here is what I have been using... works perfectly!

                http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=012



                I'm not sure if it's still available though...

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                • #9
                  my only concern with that would be power draw on it, as its only 4amps (about 50W) you may depending on your loading not have enough grunt to power your whole rig

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                  • #10
                    Hack an ATX power supply to get only the 12v outputs. 250w PSU usually have ~10 amps on the 12v rail (120 watts) and are dirt cheap.

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                    • #11
                      I use a Radio Shack...

                      ... 25 amp switching power supply for bench testing.

                      http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

                      It is about $110 u.s. Maybe a little more power than you need for now, but I have never heard anybody wish for a wimpier power supply. I bench test some fairly heavy 12 volt comms stuff.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Darkman613 View Post
                        Here is what I have been using... works perfectly!

                        http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=012



                        I'm not sure if it's still available though...
                        Kind of on topic...Similar idea to above, I have a spare IBM power brick (from my T23 laptop) lying around. It's rated at 16V output. Can I use it to power up my Carnetix 2140 for bench testing? If so, it has two color wires, brown and blue, which is positive and which is ground? Also, based on above, it looks like they piggy back the ACC to constant power. Can someone confirm?
                        Mazda RX-8 . Mac Mini 1.83 Core 2 Duo . Centrafuse 3.1 . Carnetix P2140 . Xenarc TSV7

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                        • #13
                          The only problem I know of with using a laptop power brick is most of them only put out 3 amps or so. Most likely not enough to run your computer. Many of the places that sell these bricks above sell ones that put out more amps.
                          03 Accord Sedan CarPC

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                          • #14
                            This brick is rated at 4.5 amps fwiw. I'm actually just trying to bench test a servo that will motorize a screen unit.
                            Mazda RX-8 . Mac Mini 1.83 Core 2 Duo . Centrafuse 3.1 . Carnetix P2140 . Xenarc TSV7

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hmmm... I must be missing something here...

                              I've always used a car battery charger, set on low... it outputs around 14 volts, but all my stuff has always had internal power regulators anyhow...

                              I picked mine up from autozone, or something like that, for $30...


                              peace
                              Mike

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