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How much load can a lighter cable take?

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  • How much load can a lighter cable take?

    I guess the subject header says most of it. But I have brought my inverter, its 300W (350 for half and hour) and 900W on surge. Now I dont know **** about electronics so any responses are gonna have to be dumbed down a bit My problem is that the inverter comes with both alligator clips for the batt. terminals and a cigarette lighter head, both are fused with 35amp fuses. I want to chop the head off the lighter adapter run an inline 35amp fuse throught it and attatch it...'somewhere'. I 'assusme' the back of the lighter is fine since the adaptor makes use of the same cables, but those wires look, well, tiny. Can they take the load if it surges to 900w? and what does 900w actually mean for me, like do I have to take this into account anywhere in my planning?

    Cheers guy (and gals),
    Mikky G.
    The box said Windows 9x or better.. so I installed Linux

    There are 10 kinds of people in the world those who understand binary and those who don't.

  • #2
    I believe a typical lighter hands around 10amps
    aka Kumaneko
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    • #3
      can you see any printing on the wire anywhere? something that says AWG #? that number is the gauge, which is the size of the wire (the higher the number, the smaller the wire).

      Ive found this chart which lists the amp capacity of different gauges of wire:
      http://www.amasci.com/tesla/wire1.txt

      To get the amps, divide the power (watts) by the voltage. Since its all at 12v, to get the amps at 900w, divide 900 by 12, so thats 75 amps. I seriously doubt that you'll ever draw 900watts. That would only happen if you were running 5 or 6 15" subs. 300w divided by 12 is 25amps, which would need about 8 gauge wire. Now i doubt that you will even draw 300w continuous, if youre only running a computer from it.

      Others will have more information on this though.
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      • #4
        okay thanks guys,
        So whilst trying to keep my options open. Ie adding other devices at a later date etc. it would seem a bit smarter to run a line straight off the batt. yes? hmmm.. but then I loose the key turn power on thing'o.... ****
        Mann this thing had better rock when Im finished, my boss'll never forgive me for the time Ive 'wasted' at work drawing up plans and using the a3 color printer, lol. ahhhh we'll guess thats what its for.

        It'll post some pics of the monitor in the dash, soon, as soon as I can 'borrow' the companys digital camerra, lol. But seriously if you ever goto a place and they tell you it'll cost $130 (AUS) to make a box and face plate for the screen. tell em to f*#k off. Mine was made using free wood from the scrap heap, scrap leather vynal from the material devision of work and borrowed glue from a mate.

        Total cost 4 hours and $0.
        The box said Windows 9x or better.. so I installed Linux

        There are 10 kinds of people in the world those who understand binary and those who don't.

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        • #5
          as promised
          The box said Windows 9x or better.. so I installed Linux

          There are 10 kinds of people in the world those who understand binary and those who don't.

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          • #6
            Nice looking mount for the monitor. Hope that mine turns out that well (too bad I have an odd shapped opening). Run a ~8-10awg line dirrectly from your battery, and just find a fuse that switches with your acc line, get some fuse piggyback connectors, and tie a relay into that, so that the acc line turns the relay on, which turns the inverter on.
            -Nick

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            www.mp3vw.com

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