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  • M4-ATX or DSATX

    I have already ordered a M4-ATX and its on the way. But after reading many posts in the forum, I found DSATX/OPUS is a better product. So I have decided to get a DSATX and I will keep the M4-ATX as stock.

    I have read the DSATX manual and I am very impressed about it.

    Here are some of the features listed in DSATX but not in M4-ATX Manual:

    3.5.3.Input Transient, and Reverse Voltage Protection
    The DSATX has components that prevent the DSATX from being damaged from the harsh conditions
    present in a motor vehicle. Transients above 24 volts (Load Dump) are shunted by the protection components.
    Reverse voltage conditions will blow the fuse before damaging components on the DSATX.
    3.5.4.Thermal Protection/Monitoring
    The DSATX is equipped with a temperature sensor that monitors the ambient temperature around the
    DSATX. The DSATX is programmed to only allow operation while the temperature is inside the window of -10c
    to 55c. If outside this range, the LED will flash 4 times and the DSATX will not provide power. Once the out of
    range condition goes away, the DSATX will behave like ACC was applied right at that point. This protects the
    DSATX, and the computer hardware from temperature extremes and potentially damaging over and under
    temperature conditions.
    3.5.5.Output Voltage Protection/Monitoring
    The DSATX is constantly monitoring the Output Rails while operating. If the rails are ever overloaded,
    or shorted to ground or each other, the DSATX will detect that within 50ms and turn off all outputs and go into
    the “Fault” state. This will protect the computer hardware in the event that the DSATX is over loaded, or if the
    DSATX should fail for any reason. When rails are shorted, for example 5 volts to 12 volts, other power
    supplies on the market will not detect an over voltage condition, which will damage 5-volt rated computer
    components.
    3.5.6.Output Current Limiting
    The output rails of the DSATX are designed to current limit such that they will begin to sag before the
    components are overloaded beyond their manufacturer rating in a way that could cause a fire or meltdown.
    The current limiting will be detected by the continuous output voltage monitoring and trigger a fault condition.
    1. So my question is, Is the DSATX really superior to M4-ATX and is it worth the money?
    2. Will any of the above mentioned features like Temperature control, Load Dump, Overload protection and Output Current Limiting available in M4-ATX. If they are still in M4-ATX, should I need DSATX than M4-ATX?
    3. The only drawback I found in DSATX is it has 20 pin instead of 24 pin. Will an INTEL G31 motherboard run in 20-pin with 7600GT GPU & E7300
    - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

    My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

  • #2
    other than the 20pins drawback (just get a 20-24pin cable), the DSATX is a solid psu.
    I have not used the m4atx myself, but based on my experience with people around the forum having problems with the m4atx, and my very satisfactory experience with the DSATX, I'd say pitch in the extra cash, and get yourself the DSATX.

    Comment


    • #3
      What about OPUS 320W? Will it support all the above features like Temperature control, Load Dump, Overload protection and Output Current Limiting? Price is not a factor for me, but I like the screw input terminal in DSATX than Modular.

      But I will order a OPUS 320, if it has all the features of DSATX for the 100w extra power.
      - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

      My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

      Comment


      • #4
        the screws input of the DSATX is a very nice feature, never had a single connection gone loose on the DSATX. I also owned an opus150 before, and i loved it, but one thing the DSATX beats the opus is the start up, it boots within 1sec while the opus has a startup time takes a few seconds. Another thing to consider, the opus320/150 is considerably bigger than the DSATX, so if size matter, you should consider. As for the reconfigurability of the opus, i'm uncertain, because i havent looked at them for a while.

        Comment


        • #5
          Please confirm me somebody, I have ONLY 2 DAYS MORE TO ORDER:

          DSATX 220 or OPUS 320. Both cost me same price, so price is not a factor. I am interested in Build quality, Solid capacitors, Lifetime, Temperature control and voltage protection. Which is designed better?
          - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

          My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

          Comment


          • #6
            Both the Opus 320 and the DSATX are quality units.
            The DSATX is far more flexible and customizable.
            Be sure to get the brainstem so you can program the DSATX thru a serial or USB port.
            Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
            How about the Wiki?



            Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

            Comment


            • #7
              Any more inputs?

              Opus gives me 3 year warranty. Also its 320w with 12v output from the touchscreen. I also planned to power two 7 port USB hubs from the PSU only.

              My PC requires around 200w power with all USB devices loaded (G31+E7300, 7600GT, 4 FANs, DVD Writer, SATA HDD etc.)

              Will 220w enough for me? I dont need the brainstem as its useless for me. I really dont care about USB Programming kind of thinks.

              Should I go for OPUS 320 then? Is there any drawbacks in opus comparing to DSATX?
              - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

              My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ibm_jennifer View Post
                Any more inputs?

                Opus gives me 3 year warranty.
                I know Jeff will support your DSATX for at least that long.
                He's helped me with mine looong past the warraty.

                Also its 320w with 12v output from the touchscreen. I also planned to power two 7 port USB hubs from the PSU only.
                Someone hasn't been reading up on power supplies.

                A good powered hub will likely draw 5v.

                And 12v output for the screen can be had from ANY PSU via a HDD power connector, but the DSATX has a separate connection for 12v for whatever you may need/want it for.

                My PC requires around 200w power with all USB devices loaded (G31+E7300, 7600GT, 4 FANs, DVD Writer, SATA HDD etc.)
                This is where you want to get very specific.
                You need to get a more accurate estimate for the power draw of your entire system.
                Check this FAQ: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/advf...iew&advfaqid=6

                Will 220w enough for me? I dont need the brainstem as its useless for me. I really dont care about USB Programming kind of thinks.
                Don't get a brainstem then. You can always get one later if you want that flexibility. PErsonally, I think monitoring voltage and temps and having that information is a good thing, but to each his own.

                Should I go for OPUS 320 then? Is there any drawbacks in opus comparing to DSATX?
                I think you've made up your mind, so no amount of infromation from the rest of us is going to change your mind.
                Will the Opus work for you? Sure.
                Are there other options that will work for you? Sure.
                Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                How about the Wiki?



                Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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                • #9
                  A good powered hub will likely draw 5v.
                  Yes, I should take 5v for the USB Hub. It nearly take 2-3 amp as I am going to connect a 320GB HDD, GPS, two CCD Cameras and some IR, GPS, WLAN, BT & 2.4G Receivers. And one 7 port hub is not enough for me.

                  Can anybody post a picture of a molex HDD Connector with each wire explained?

                  Should I return the Ground from USB hub back to the molex COM/Black terminal? or is it enough to run the +!2v and +5v from the PSU to my monitor and USB? Or can I connect the negative terminals to the chassis?
                  - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

                  My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    All that plugged into hubs is asking for connectivity issues, especially if you use hibernate mode.
                    Get the GPS unit(s) connected to a USB port directly on the motherboard if you can.
                    What do you need an IR receiver for and why can't you use a serial port IR?
                    You need a 2.4G receiver for.. WHAT? They are usually for WLAN.
                    Why do you intend to use a USB HDD? Why not an internal IDE or SATA drive?

                    On the HDD molex, yellow = 12v, black = ground, red = 5v.
                    That's been plastered all over this forum for longer than I've been around. Some search-fu would do you well.
                    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                    How about the Wiki?



                    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      All that plugged into hubs is asking for connectivity issues, especially if you use hibernate mode.
                      No I am not interested in Hibernate Mode and I have no planning to use frond ends like RR or Centrafuse.

                      What do you need an IR receiver
                      Its an IR PC Remote controller.

                      You need a 2.4G receiver for.. WHAT?
                      USB 2.4G is for a wireless touchpad keyboard and another one for finger mouse.

                      Why do you intend to use a USB HDD?
                      I already have an internal SATA. And this is near the dashboard, so that I can easily remove it and bring data from home pc.

                      I tried to connect everything and all the devices working fine without any external Power in USB Hub except the external HDD. I am using an 5 Meter usb 'ACTIVE' extension cable and then a 7 port USB Hub. If I connect a 5v 2 amp adapter to the USB Hub, the USB HDD is too working.

                      But I came to know OPUS 320W used to fire up the USB Hubs, if connected to a molex 5v. Is it true?
                      - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

                      My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have a doubt, Is it necessary to power the Monitor from PSU? Can I directly connect the monitor to the battery? Mine is a samsung panel 10.4" touchscreen monitor and I want to use the monitor even if the PC is switched off (For reverse camera).

                        Will connecting to the battery is really bad for the monitor or acceptable?
                        - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

                        My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ibm_jennifer View Post
                          I have a doubt, Is it necessary to power the Monitor from PSU? Can I directly connect the monitor to the battery? Mine is a samsung panel 10.4" touchscreen monitor and I want to use the monitor even if the PC is switched off (For reverse camera).

                          Will connecting to the battery is really bad for the monitor or acceptable?
                          Depends on the monitor ans sometimes who you ask.

                          I know that Xenarc monitors can accept unregulated power, per the specs. Those you can connect directly to the car's electrical system.
                          Lilliput monitors require regulated 12v. They come with a low-quality inline regulator (aka the "egg"). Many have wired their Lilliputs directly to the car's electrical system with and without the "egg" with no ill effects. Others have destroyed the egg and/or their monitor, as well.

                          Before you even consider this as an option, I'd check the power requirements of your monitor.
                          Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                          How about the Wiki?



                          Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I have 3 monitors. One 10.4 inch samsung Touchscreen from onvon.com and two 7 inch non-touchscreen. The 10.4 takes 1 Amp current and each 7 inch takes 0.5 amp current. So I will take the 3.5a out from the 12v modular of the PSU and split the wire to this 3 monitors.

                            For ground I will connect the negative of all the three monitors to the battery negative directly. Am i right?


                            my monitor is rated to work at 11.5-13v DC input and it has a Samsung panel which is the same sold by gooddeals18.

                            Do I NEED regulated 12v input for this monitor? If yes, only +12v in enough from the PSU and can I connect the ground directly to Battery?
                            - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

                            My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              So here is my Power Diagram for my upcoming PC Project. Please help me to correct my mistakes:

                              Click image for larger version

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                              Here is the big picture: http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/1331/ibmpc.png
                              - 99% Planning + 1% Development = Mission Completed!

                              My Work Log: My $5000 Car PC

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