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  • Truck Driver Need's a little help.

    I am a truck driver and my setup is a bit heavy duty..

    My alt. is a 170amp and my main battery bank is 4 group 31 in parallel.
    connected to it is a 3000 watt Inverter that powers all my hotel loads, fridge,micro and computer.
    My problem my inverter does not survive crank.(flips out actually)
    This is really really irritating me so..
    What i want to do is add an extra battery(mebby 2) to my bank with a cut out ckt to disconnect the extra battery when the engine cranks.MY inverter would be hooked up to the
    battery's that are disconnected.
    I am having a hard time finding a good solenoid for the purpose.
    I think I want a 500amp normally closed non latching type.
    any idea's where I can find such a beast ?


    I think I may have a solution for myself, Bep Marine makes this little gadget..
    http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainme...ive-relay-vsr-

    I am going to pick one of these up and see if it will work for me.

  • #2
    I think by the time you spend the time & money doing what you suggested, you would be further ahead adding a proper carputer power supply that is designed to handle the tasks of startup, shutdown, cranking etc. Also the computer would end up getting cleaner power than it would from the invertor and you will have less computer issues.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

    Comment


    • #3
      all right I will consider not using an inverter to power my pc.

      my current computer is an Intel quad core 2.2ghz cpu
      video card is a radeon 5870 <recent> upgrade
      8 gig ram
      5 500gig 2.5 and 3 1TB 2.5 inch hard disk's.
      I will eventually replace all my 500 gig drives with 1tb drives and the total number of drives will go up to 10 drives.
      I have no Idea what my total power usage is but my 1000watt ps seems to handle it ok.

      I have looked around for a good DC to DC power supply for my computer I haven't been able to find anything that comes even close to a 1000 watt ps.

      if you can point me in the right direction to find such a beast I would be grateful.

      Comment


      • #4
        most of us don't use that much power in-car..

        in fact, most don't even use anything more then on-board graphics..

        for 360watt+ pc's, a inverter is going to be your best option(the opus 360 is the highest dc-dc psu i know of)
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          We use these relays at work: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Stancor/124-910/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW1unbvAnCJgIIQso0WptNCs%3d

          They are quite nice, and make good cutout relays for just what you are looking for.
          "stop with the REINSTALLS, what do you think we got some lame-o installer!!!" - mitchjs
          RevFE
          My Shop

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          • #6
            On the original theme (a relay) - forget voltage sensing (too complex, to expensive, too many issues...).

            It'd be better using a normally closed relay that is pulled open during cranking - ie, the starter solenoid (wire) energises the relay.
            And it would only need to be the one battery else 2 batteries (I'm assuming cranking draws more than the inverter.


            The "opposite" is a relay that closes during charging to connect battery arrays. A charge lamp circuit can usually switch on a relay (when the charge lamp is off - ie, charging) - in this case probably a small relay that switches on the bigger 400A-500A relay.

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            • #7
              Start quote from Old Spark
              It'd be better using a normally closed relay that is pulled open during cranking - ie, the starter solenoid (wire) energies the relay.
              And it would only need to be the one battery else 2 batteries (I'm assuming cranking draws more than the inverter.
              end quote

              That's exactly what I am looking for is an 200-300 amp normally closed Relay, and so far have found zip.. I can find latching or N.O relay's but normally closed it's been like finding hen's teeth.

              I decided to go with this
              http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power...p-1314-200.htm

              it was only 120 bux with shipping, I will Install and report on how well this works out for me.

              Comment


              • #8
                I've done similar for 250A for about $25 - and FAR, more reliably! I think 400A was ~$35. Add a switch and diodes ($2-$5) for manual bypasses etc.

                The NC solution is to use a standard changeover relay to drive the heavy relay/contactor.
                IE - the first SPDT (changeover) relay is energised by the starter circuit. That breaks the NC contacts (#30 & #87a) that energise the main relay.


                The problem with high-current NC is that there needs to be adequate force holding the contacts together. NC is fine for lower currents (in non-vibrational applications), but a reliable connection is under force - ie, held in contact with an energised coil.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by JackTheKnife View Post
                  Wow, that web site is like a candy store to me
                  My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    LOL - all I see is silly voltage relays, ancient Pertronix, and Bosch alternators....

                    But there is good stuff similar to malcom2073's relay (eg, Cole Hersee 24143; 12V Continuous Duty 200A $35.14).

                    At the12volt.com I saw some >200A relays for about $20 to $25....
                    Though for a full 3kW inverter I'd want at least a 300A device....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have received the unit and have it installed. So far it's worked perfectly.
                      At last My computer does not have to crash when I crank the engine.
                      The only irritating thing about the install was that the welding supply store where I
                      went to purchase the wiring was out of the proper cable ends for size 0 cable.
                      So i ended up using size 4 and doubling up each cable run.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You can make your own ends out of copper water pipe when your in a jamb.

                        Glad it solved your problem, please keep us posted if anything does go wrong or needs modifying so someone else going this route knows of any issues to look out for.
                        My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Umm...if you're using an inverter, wouldn't it just be simpler to plug a UPS into the inverter, plug the computer into the UPS and be done with it?
                          Originally posted by ghettocruzer
                          I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
                          Want to:
                          -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
                          -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

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                          • #14
                            A 5kVA UPS ain't cheap.

                            Plus the inefficiency.


                            Not to mention how strange I find it that there is already the key core of a UPS system - namely the battery - and it is ignored. (IE - use another inverter. Or instead of adding UPS batteries, add another vehicle battery that at least should have some benefit between replacements.)
                            (I can imagine the mess if telcos used AC UPS on their inverters!)

                            PS - telcos usually use inverters with a mains/AC bypass - if the inverter isn't supplying the AC, its changeover relay is de-energised and hence selecting the "alternate AC" supply which is another inverter or the AC supply.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                              Umm...if you're using an inverter, wouldn't it just be simpler to plug a UPS into the inverter, plug the computer into the UPS and be done with it?
                              UPS's really really hate square wave or modified sign wave power that you get out of most inverters. They (the UPS's) just do not function at all in my experience, yup I tried that as a quick and dirty solution but none of the 4 ups's of various brands would work.
                              I was 2 cheap to buy one of the mid size true sign wave inverters there daed expensive.

                              So I went with this and it's so far worked perfectly <keeping fingers crossed>

                              I do intend to clean up the wiring up once I get all the proper cable end's and find good size 0 wire in red and black so it all looks pretty. Right now it looks like a den of snakes since every run is doubled up size 4 cable. I would post pictures of my install but it's just to dang ugly right now. I am considering this a test phase ..

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