No announcement yet.

pulling power from factory radio connector

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • pulling power from factory radio connector

    Im wanting to unsolder the connector out of my factory cd player from my honda, mount the connector in the pc case. This would supply me my constant 12v power, ground, and ignition source. Just wondering if the small guage wires are going to be enough for the power requirements of the pc. will be running a dsatx. msi Fuzzy GM965 motherboard, 2.5" laptop sata hard drive, sata laptop cd drive, lcd is powered through lvds connection, bluetooth wireless keyboard, usb touchscreen controller, msi cpu fan, aditional msi cpu fan on video chipset running from case fan connector, also ability to run additional usb hardware.

    would really like to be able to use the oem connector for the factory radio because i wouldn't have to run any wires or modify my cars wiring harness.

  • #2
    yes, you can.

    2006 Mazda6 Carpc

    2008 Acura TSX Nexus 7


    • #3
      Check for the rating of the factory fitted fuse used on the same line. Ideally the fuse should be rated lower than the max current the wire can handle without burning out.

      If your CarPC's current consumption stays below the fuse rating, you should be good.


      • #4
        Hold on, check the wattage/amperage before you do that. Volts X amps = Watts.

        If it is a 10 amp fuse, your PC shouldn't draw more than 120 watts or thereabouts. If it's 15 amps, you could go to 180 watts.
        Originally posted by ghettocruzer
        I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
        Want to:
        -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
        -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video


        • #5
          its a 15A fuse in the under dash fuse box.


          • #6
            I don't think there is a user here that would recommend using the radio harness to power a PC.

            That said, it could be done, but you're limiting yourself power-wise to what that circuit can provide.

            You've already mentioned your hardware, and I don't think your PC specs can fit within the 180w max you've got available with a 15A circuit. If they can, you're going to be pushing it.
            As it is, you've specified a 220w DSATX for your power supply. There's a reason for that PSU choice.

            Cue the artwork....
            Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
            How about the Wiki?

            Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.


            • #7
              DON'T FORGET!!

              many cars use the radio fuse for other devices as well--my eclipse uses the radio fuse for the dome light, and clock as well, further limiting the power capacity of that 10A fuse.

              for a dsatx, it will not work.. you need to run a power wire from the battery (trust me, i tried it-- and it cost me $180 in service charges when i couldn't locate the fuse i blew, and had to take it to the dealer..).

              also, there is major advantages to running your own wire-- you can control all aspects of what is connected, what the fuse size is, and how much power is drawn from it. you can barely do any of that with the factory wiring..
              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

              next project? subaru brz
              carpc undecided


              • #8
                yeah, i figured as much. would have been nice to have a true plug and play dual din unit.
                Im just going to use the oe connector and harness for the ignition on and the constant 12v to power a dc-dc regulator for my usb hub. then the pc power will be dedicated wire fused from the distribution block from the battery. Ground will be same size cable grounded to the chassis ground.


                • #9
                  Thanks guys.
                  I was tempted to reply earlier...

                  Then I thought it was my ideal and preventative advice as opposed to others experience.

                  But one comment:
                  Originally posted by DigitalVampire View Post
                  Ideally the fuse should be rated lower than the max current the wire can handle without burning out...
                  That is not "an ideal" - that is essential.
                  If that is done, omit the fuse - the melting wire itself is the fuse.
                  (The fuse is redundant. You'd be better buying insurance or n extinguisher.)