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GM vehicles and/or Side Post Batteries

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  • GM vehicles and/or Side Post Batteries

    Ok, I am starting to throw down my power cables into my new 95 Saturn. This is the first GM vehicle I have owned, and it has a side post battery. So I ordered some of these and now they are on their way to my house. The only question i have is: Do these posts vibrate out of the battery? I would think since they are next to the engine, that they would probably vibrate loose. Would it be recommended to put some LocTite on them, or would that kill condutivity? Any input is appreciated.
    2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

  • #2
    I've never had an issue with that happening. I have the same type of extended posts in my car and no issues.
    Aura MR62 (F and R)
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    • #3
      Ouch, I have one of those, it cost me $11 at circuit city, but I needed it then. Mine has never fallen out. I still had power even when I rigged it by sticking it in the plastic cap, and it never did fall out.
      CarComputer Status: New Car & Broken (Motherboard Fried)
      Owen JH | My Linux Blog | The Tech Fellows

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      • #4
        Thanks guys, thats the kind of reassurance i needed
        2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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        • #5
          I have had 3 GM cars/trucks and never had a problem with post coming out. Do not use loctite for it. Also don't try to tighten the post too much or you might brake the post on the battery. You should be fine.

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          • #6
            I had the same type as you show above.

            I had one crack and pop off.

            But that was only one of many I have used...

            -Mario

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            • #7
              m3rdpwr, were you able to use the oem battery connectors with it? For some reason i dont think i will be able to, nor do i think i need the special post if im only going to add one 5/8" ring.
              2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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              • #8
                Originally posted by binary.h4x
                m3rdpwr, were you able to use the oem battery connectors with it? For some reason i dont think i will be able to, nor do i think i need the special post if im only going to add one 5/8" ring.
                The factory cables would require you to really work the old bolt out. I had aftermarket cables dut to an engine swap.

                The bolt you bould still attaches the main starter power cable.
                The alternator, amps, and such connect to the smaller bolt which is what broke on mine.

                -Mario

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                • #9
                  Erm, I got mine in with factory cables, I had to cut the plastic bull-stuff off it i think, or maybe I just jammed it in and tightened up, anyway, it hasn't came out yet, and I know its not stuck in there because I followed the thread, isn't to hard to do really.
                  CarComputer Status: New Car & Broken (Motherboard Fried)
                  Owen JH | My Linux Blog | The Tech Fellows

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                  • #10
                    Yep they have been attached to the battery in my 88 s-10 for years, only removed a few times to replace the battery. I have had more problems with the top post terminals, our chrysler would get funky if I didn't clean the terminals every few months (crappy mitsubishi electronics.)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by eugenen
                      Yep they have been attached to the battery in my 88 s-10 for years, only removed a few times to replace the battery. I have had more problems with the top post terminals, our chrysler would get funky if I didn't clean the terminals every few months (crappy mitsubishi electronics.)
                      Top post batteries are notorious for doing that.
                      Especially if you ever remove the terminals.
                      They need to be cleaned all the time.

                      Side post batteries rarely ever have that problem...

                      On a side note, top post battery cables can be bought pre-made down to 0 gauge. Side post I've never seen thicker pre-made 2-4 gauge...

                      -Mario

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                      • #12
                        thanks for all the info, i probably will understand it all a bit better when i can actually get under the hood and take the bolts out.
                        2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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                        • #13
                          On my Buick, I decided against connecting straight to the battery. Instead, I traced the positive wire and found that it ended at a much friendlier bolt at the internal fuse/distribution box. I tied my circuit in right there. It's electrically identical to being hooked straight to the battery, and nothing special was needed. The bolt for the distribution post was long enough that I could put a ring connector in between it and the distribution array.
                          Chrysler 300 - Fabricating
                          http://hallert.net/

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