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M1-ATX in dumb mode vs engine cranks

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  • M1-ATX in dumb mode vs engine cranks

    I use a M1-ATX in my setup and have the jumpers set to normal mode. (dumb psu mode) I use a switch on my dashboard to turn it on/off.

    When the M1-ATX is in the dumb psu mode should it survive engine cranks?

    Cause mine isn't. I've doublechecked if the power outlet in the boot, My multimeter tells me the voltage dips to 10.2v when I crank the engine.

  • #2
    *bump*

    Doesn't anyone know this ?!?

    When the M1-ATX is in the dumb psu mode should it survive engine cranks?

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    • #3
      I dont have M1ATX but it should survive the crank. Make sure you have a good connection from the battery to the PSU. There may well be too much resistance in between them.

      When the PSU need to operate from 10v due to cranking, it will naturally draw more current to generate the same power output. So make sure you use thick wires.

      The M1ATX support guy is here often so he should be able to help you.

      Have you tried using the NOT "DUMB" mode?

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      • #4
        never used dumb mode, but mine survives cranks w/ no problem...I don't see why dumb mode wouldn't. Do you have an old battery? Perhaps your battery or alternator is bad or going bad and can't provide enough current.
        CarPC #3: 99% Complete
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        • #5
          The battery in my car is fine, at least that's what I should expect from a new battery, I got the car (new) in july.

          I'm not using any of the other mode's because the delay's are not good for what I want. I don't want to start/quit the pc everytime i start/quit the engine.

          I'll try putting it on a seperate cable running from the battery.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Meelobee
            I'll try putting it on a seperate cable running from the battery.
            That you should DEFINITELY do. Where do you have it running from, now?
            CarPC #3: 99% Complete
            Pentium M 1.7Ghz, 1GB DDR2 RAM
            DVD/CD-RW installed in dash below monitor
            OEM LCD relocated for 7" Touchscreen
            Wi-Fi, GPS, PS2 controllers...
            500+ full albums
            4,000+ video games
            music videos, movies, & more!
            old carPC

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            • #7
              Mine doesn't survive crank either, at 9.7v, tested with a 4 ft peice of 8ga from the battery terminal. =\

              Ah well.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Meelobee
                The battery in my car is fine, at least that's what I should expect from a new battery, I got the car (new) in july.

                I'm not using any of the other mode's because the delay's are not good for what I want. I don't want to start/quit the pc everytime i start/quit the engine.

                I'll try putting it on a seperate cable running from the battery.
                You can wire a switch to the ACC wire that is a 3 position one is normal acc, aone always on, and off.
                1990 Jeep Cherokee
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ITL
                  That you should DEFINITELY do. Where do you have it running from, now?
                  Sorry for the late reply, currently I use a standard 12v outlet in the boot.

                  Originally posted by WebDog
                  You can wire a switch to the ACC wire that is a 3 position one is normal acc, aone always on, and off.
                  Can you explain that a bit more? It sounds like something I want.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Meelobee
                    Sorry for the late reply, currently I use a standard 12v outlet in the boot.
                    I assume by boot you mean trunk. You ought to try running directly from the battery.


                    Originally posted by Meelobee
                    Can you explain that a bit more? It sounds like something I want.
                    Let me try. The three position switch would allow the following scenarios:

                    1) Run PC anytime, no matter if car is on or off. You control startup/shutdown.
                    2) Normal ACC: Ignition controls startup/shutdown.
                    3) PC is always off.

                    Wire 1 will be constant 12V. Wire 2 will be switched 12V. Wire 3 will be common ground.

                    This is something I need to implement myself. I'm just spinning my wheels trying to figure out the best place to discreetly, yet conveniently mount the switch.
                    CarPC #3: 99% Complete
                    Pentium M 1.7Ghz, 1GB DDR2 RAM
                    DVD/CD-RW installed in dash below monitor
                    OEM LCD relocated for 7" Touchscreen
                    Wi-Fi, GPS, PS2 controllers...
                    500+ full albums
                    4,000+ video games
                    music videos, movies, & more!
                    old carPC

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                    • #11
                      Why would you need an extra switch with the M1-ATX ? You don't have one for a Head Unit either. I have mine wired to constant 12V, ACC and Ground. The jumper on the PSU is set to 5sec off delay and Hard Off Never. The computer is set to S3 Standby which powers off the motherboard, hard drive, DVD drive and USB ports. The only power drawn is the DDR Memory module and my lilliput is set to auto power on. So when ever I take the key out off the ignition it powers off in 5 sec, I go into a store and buy a pack of cigs, get back to the car, start it and the computer is back on in 2 sec. Sometimes I let the car (2005 Chrysler 300) sit for 3 to 4 days ( I have also an 2004 Envoy) and there is no problem with the battery and starting. Works like a regular head unit.

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                      • #12
                        It's definitely not absolutely necessary; however, it does provide the user an extra level of control.

                        I want it setup so that I can turn:
                        1) on the PC without turning on the car's accessories...i.e. working on it in the garage, but don't want/need the keys in the ignition.
                        2) normal mode for use as you've suggested
                        3) off always so that I can keep it off if I don't want it to boot up while I move the car a few feet (washing car) or someone else is driving it (dealership)
                        CarPC #3: 99% Complete
                        Pentium M 1.7Ghz, 1GB DDR2 RAM
                        DVD/CD-RW installed in dash below monitor
                        OEM LCD relocated for 7" Touchscreen
                        Wi-Fi, GPS, PS2 controllers...
                        500+ full albums
                        4,000+ video games
                        music videos, movies, & more!
                        old carPC

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can go as low as 6V, M1-ATX will survive. Something is wrong with your wiring. Beleive it or not, M1-ATX likes it better at lower voltages.

                          -Do not use yopur cig. ligher as your power source.
                          -Make sure you have a good crimping job.
                          -If your car dips below 6V, sorry, I cannot help here.

                          >My multimeter tells me the voltage dips to 10.2v
                          Measure that at the input of M1-ATX.

                          -Andrei (the designer of M1-ATX)



                          Originally posted by Meelobee
                          I use a M1-ATX in my setup and have the jumpers set to normal mode. (dumb psu mode) I use a switch on my dashboard to turn it on/off.

                          When the M1-ATX is in the dumb psu mode should it survive engine cranks?

                          Cause mine isn't. I've doublechecked if the power outlet in the boot, My multimeter tells me the voltage dips to 10.2v when I crank the engine.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Meelobee
                            The battery in my car is fine, at least that's what I should expect from a new battery, I got the car (new) in july.

                            I'm not using any of the other mode's because the delay's are not good for what I want. I don't want to start/quit the pc everytime i start/quit the engine.

                            I'll try putting it on a seperate cable running from the battery.
                            Hi.
                            I also have and use the M1-ATX. Though I have never used dumb mode I got the firmware for the M1 and changed the timings more towards what I wanted to use.

                            If it is just a simple change I can edit the code for your requirements and re-compile to a .HEX file. All you would then need to do is get is programmed into the PIC on your M1-ATX.

                            Would that be any help?

                            For me I just changed mode 6 to 15 mins DelayOff and 30 Mins Hard off. That way it did not shut the system down after switching off the ignition for more than 30 seconds and long enough to fill up with fuel. This is also long enough for the wireless to sync new music and virus updates to my scanner!



                            Comment


                            • #15
                              **Bump!**

                              I've rewired my car, I now have a 12v line running directly from the battery. The 0v comes from the frame in the trunk.
                              Still the PC won't stay on when I start my car. The 12v dips to 10.1v when I start the car (measured at the input of the M1-ATX)

                              I still have it wired with only the 12v and 0v line, with a on/off switch on the 12v line. I'm not using the acc line. (should I use it?)

                              This is still a pain in the *** because I have to shutdown the pc everytime I stop the engine. What am I doing wrong?

                              M1-ATX won't 1-ATX will survive. Something is wrong with your wiring. Beleive it or not, M1-ATX likes it better at lower voltages.

                              -Do not use yopur cig. ligher as your power source.
                              -Make sure you have a good crimping job.
                              -If your car dips below 6V, sorry, I cannot help here.

                              >My multimeter tells me the voltage dips to 10.2v
                              Measure that at the input of M1-ATX.

                              -Andrei (the designer of M1-ATX)

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