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AC/DC adapter for testing or portability

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  • AC/DC adapter for testing or portability

    I want to buy an AC/DC adapter to do testing of my carputer in my house, and also to use it when I am home as a portable jukebox.

    When reading the specs of the arise DC-DC power supply, the papers say it requires 12V DC max 3A. Every AC/DC adapter I see says a max of 300-800mA, up to 1700mA. Is this going to be enough to power this computer? What should I be looking for? Any suggestions?

    Highest rated one I found was:

    I'm not an expert, so can someone help me with this?



  • #2
    This is what I use - (since I am also involved in RC):

    "Novak N-Power

    Compact and dependable switching DC power supply
    Small size: 8.86" x 2.63" x 2.50"
    Lightweight: 1.53 lbs.
    Powers 2 chargers at the same time
    Interfaces with Millennium, Rhino and all DC chargers on the market
    On/Off switch
    Anodized purple case that's well ventilated
    Internal fan for cooling
    Input: 110 volts AC (with detachable power cord)
    Output: 14 volts DC @ 10 amps maximum
    Output Overload Protection

    In RC, its used to power primarily battery chargers, but its output is between 12-14 volts at 10 Amps...

    Also, I am sure that RatShack has one rated at this range as well...

    JZ CarPC - 1998 Volvo C70
    Shuttle SV-24 Celery 400Mhz 128MB SDRAM 60GB HD DVD, 12.1" VGA TFT LCD, Sproggy/Mastero DC-DC ATX PSU, Mucha ATX shutdown controller, Co-Pilot GPS


    • #3
      Why not just power it off a standard desktop AT / ATX power supply. My AT power suply outputs 12v @ 5.5A, is this enough?? Plans and progress on my install - (Updated 28 June 02)
      Australian mp3car Portal
      mp3car related links Check them out / Add some
      mp3car FAQ - RTFF

      [########==]80% Assembling
      -=Current Progress: Working Sproggy supply, building box.=-


      • #4
        Use a standard AT supply, or check out for a good adjustable bench supply.
        Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
        Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
        "If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."


        • #5
          Because if I use a standard power supply, then I would have to adjust things inside the case when I move inside. If I get a power supply that provides DC, then I plug it in when I go into the car, and have the same sort of plug in when I go into the house. No rewiring, just plug the AC/DC adapter into the wall and plug it into the carputer.

          WakeAndSno, I've been looking at different products, and I came across this one:
          You think that would be sufficient - is this something that would work for me?




          • #6
            I'm not certain that you understood the suggestion for using a standard AC-DC power supply...

            If you can find a standard 200W AC-DC AT power supply, it can provide likely 6A at +12V out. Simply plug the DC-DC supply in to that (hack up a molex connector if you want) when you come inside, and use the same molex connector in your car to power it there.

            You can prolly find an old AT power supply for like $10 at a surplus shop, much MUCH cheaper than any other sort of device, and will do exactly what you need.
            IN DEVELOPMENT -- '96 Mustang, lilliput with PII/450 laptop, custom DC-DC power supply, 60GB; Garmin GPS; 802.11g; compact keyboard, small graphical LCDs, OBDII.


            • #7
              If you're like me and you have ATX power supplies laying around but no AT supplies, you can use that too, without hooking it up to a motherboard.

              Just short pins 14 and 15 to each other. I've always been told to make sure there's some load on it (I use a fan) when you do that, but it's probably not necessarily.

              BTW, when you do this, the voltage regulation isn't as accurate. For example, my 12V rail puts out 10.5V, but that's still fine for running my car computer (which takes down to 8V).
              Player: Celeron II 633MHz, 256MB RAM, 20GB IBM 9mm 2.5" Laptop HD (180G/2ms), onboard ethernet/sound/video/tvout, 10"11"x3" case, MPBS1 70W DC-DC PS w/auto-shutdown controller, in-dash lighted switches, 7" NTSC TFT widescreen in-dash LCD, touchscreen, rear-window brake light installed Garmin GPS35 GPS, credit card sized IR remote w/IRMan, mini-wireless keyboard/mouse (sits under seat), PowerMate black knob, MP3s and GPS Navigation (Winamp, CoPilot, SA8.0).
              Car: 1993 Nissan Maxima, Black Emerald