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Amp on from M1-ATX

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  • Amp on from M1-ATX

    I tried to use my amp lead from the M1-ATX to flip a relay but found it didn’t have enough juice to do so. Has anyone been able to use it to flip a relay?
    My Work Thread:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72552
    Source switcher for Lill
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...d=1#post841007

  • #2
    it's enough to turn on two amps in my car. That's what good it is. It works as designed for many people. To turn on amps.

    it should be enough to energize a full size relay. A full sized relay only takes like 50mA of current to switch (that's 1/20 of an amp or .05 amp)

    are you trying to energize a relay which will then energize the relays in the amps?

    I'm a little unclear as to what you are trying to accomplish here.

    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

    Comment


    • #3
      Many people have all their amps wired to the output of a relay. The reason for this is that HUs only put out so much power on their remote on lead and if you overdraw that lead then you blow something.
      I have 3 amps, 1 processor, 1 dig-dig converter, and the LCD relay to “switch on” when the M1-ATX sends power down that wire. I also want all these things on ONLY if both the computer and the IGN are on. I do this via a relay AND gate (uses two relays to provide AND gate functionality).

      You say it *should* be enough to power a standard relay but does anyone have it working that way?
      My Work Thread:
      http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72552
      Source switcher for Lill
      http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...d=1#post841007

      Comment


      • #4
        I understand wanting things to work the way you mentioned. For instance, I have my screen to come on only when the key is in the ignition. That way, when I remote start, the screen isn't on while I'm walking to the car. It's tapped into the ignition switched wire from the factory radio on my car.

        Also, keep in mind that only one of those pins actually works for the amp turn on. If you've jumped both, and are not getting a response, there's a reason for that.
        Jan Bennett
        FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

        Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

        Comment


        • #5
          /nod I didn't try and use both. I am fairly certain the juice wasn't there to flip the relay. The test I did was after I got the relay working with the IGN, I pulled the IGN wire off of it and (with the PC running) hooked in the M1 wire instead...the relay didn't trip.
          ...But you got me thinking. Perhaps it is not the fault of the M1 at all but rather the extreamly feable wire that came with the jumper (for lack fo the proper name) that I dug up to fit onto those two pins. It was a twisted pair of wires. Wire gauge was like 28 or some damn thing. That may have been it though the wire should have gotten hot if that was the case. Something to test anyway.
          My Work Thread:
          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72552
          Source switcher for Lill
          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...d=1#post841007

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by EricE
            ...But you got me thinking. Perhaps it is not the fault of the M1 at all but rather the extreamly feable wire that came with the jumper (for lack fo the proper name) that I dug up to fit onto those two pins. It was a twisted pair of wires. Wire gauge was like 28 or some damn thing. That may have been it though the wire should have gotten hot if that was the case. Something to test anyway.
            this issue may have been fixed with newer releases, but on my initial M1, I followed the instructions that it came with and hooked up BOTH pins to the jumper and wires that it came with. Turns out, you're not supposed to do that, you're supposed to only connect one, otherwise you'll fry it.

            You're just supposed to connect to the pin closest to the caps...leme see if I can dig up my thread from WAYYY back when...
            Jan Bennett
            FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

            Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

            Comment


            • #7
              http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ghlight=M1-ATX

              see if there's some enlightening info in there....don't remember what all went on in there
              Jan Bennett
              FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

              Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

              Comment


              • #8
                I never did find the amp-on jumper on the pdf schematic. I think it is J2. There was no J2 on the schematic so I searched the PCB board for J2. I didn’t find that either but I did find a jumper that was labeled “amp”. I used it and tested for which one had +12. Only one pin did so I used that pin.

                Ok, reading the thread now.
                My Work Thread:
                http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72552
                Source switcher for Lill
                http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...d=1#post841007

                Comment

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