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How do you figure out which PSU you need?

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  • How do you figure out which PSU you need?

    I want to get an OPUS but I'm not quite sure which one I'll need. Here's what my current idea for a carPC is going to be

    VIA SP13000 (ideal choice, can get it for $207 shipped), MII12000 (secondary choice), M10000 (third choice)
    Slot or tray Load DVD/CD-ROM
    -Slim to IDE adapter
    512mb of ram
    40gig laptop HD

    monitor is a 7" lilli 619 most likely.

    I don't know which opus to get the 120W or the 150W one. I'm trying to keep cost low so I don't want to spend any extra cash for power I won't be using.

    ANY HELP MOST APPRECIATED!!!!! I want to order the parts soon so I'll have them waiting for me to assemble when I get home in a week in a half.

    -Mike

  • #2
    I'm just a noob myself, but I think I remember seeing a power supply calculator on the boards before. I went with an M2ATX which is I believe 160W and it was very affordable. Perhaps try searching for the power supply calculator so you can see what you need? Don't forget other USB devices like GPS or bluetooth also.

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    • #3
      FAQ section dude. that will help you out no ends!

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      • #4
        checked there, still don't get it. I've read that people have needed 1 PSU and that people have needed 2 PSU's. I'll re-read the FAQ again, but I can pretty well say I'll probably still need help.

        -Mike

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        • #5
          OMG look, you are using an epia based system. Just get an M2-ATX. it will be plenty.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Slightly_Stoopi
            checked there, still don't get it. I've read that people have needed 1 PSU and that people have needed 2 PSU's. I'll re-read the FAQ again, but I can pretty well say I'll probably still need help.
            This statement causes me to be be concerned for your project.

            The FAQs are designed to put some of the technical mumbo-jumo into plain, simple english. They're very good at that. If you can't understand the information that's in the FAQs, you're going to have a hard time with the vehicle PC project, as there's a lot of detyails & tweaking & troubleshooting that the FAQs don't cover. I wish you well, nonetheless.

            Read THIS FAQ, specifically: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=68636
            It should sed some light into what you're trying to accomplish, power-wise.

            Scouse is right. An M2-ATX would suit you nicely.
            You listed only Opus brand power supplies. There's nothing wrong with either the Opus 120w unit or the 150w unit. Personally, I'd go for the 150w unit to have additional power to accomodate an upgrade later on.
            However, the way things are going, an even more powerful PSU like the M2ATX or the DSATX are going to be able to be more suited to an upgrade, especially one with more computing horsepower (higher clock speed, better video & audio) than the Opus 150w.
            Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
            How about the Wiki?



            Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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            • #7
              it is very rare that anyone needs 2PSU's. I am amazed you even considered it for such a piffling little system

              now what you want is an XP-M 2600 system with dual VGA

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              • #8
                be carefull with the M2ATX on an SP13000 it has a nasty habit of sometimes not working with this board.
                Visit my site V8 Scimitar

                SP13000, 300GB SATA HD, 1GB DDR. Opus 150, K301 screen, Cisco WIFI, AQmax GPS, RoadRunner and FreeDrive, Sony MEX-R5 head unit. 4 years installed and it just keeps running!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Scouse Monkey
                  it is very rare that anyone needs 2PSU's. I am amazed you even considered it for such a piffling little system

                  now what you want is an XP-M 2600 system with dual VGA
                  I never said I was considering it, I said I've heard of people needing 2 PSU's. When it comes to computers I have no problem building home PC's, but throw me into the realm of mini-itx and laptops $hit pretty much hits the fan. When I choose a power supply for a home computer I pretty much just get the biggest one I can anticipating I'll be upgrading the computer many times over the course of the next 3 to 4 years (my usual life span of a PC)

                  be carefull with the M2ATX on an SP13000 it has a nasty habit of sometimes not working with this board.
                  See this is something that is good to know.....I didn't know this at all because I'm not familiar with mini-ITX at all.

                  This statement causes me to be be concerned for your project.

                  The FAQs are designed to put some of the technical mumbo-jumo into plain, simple english. They're very good at that. If you can't understand the information that's in the FAQs, you're going to have a hard time with the vehicle PC project, as there's a lot of detyails & tweaking & troubleshooting that the FAQs don't cover. I wish you well, nonetheless.

                  Read THIS FAQ, specifically: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=68636
                  It should sed some light into what you're trying to accomplish, power-wise.

                  Scouse is right. An M2-ATX would suit you nicely.
                  You listed only Opus brand power supplies. There's nothing wrong with either the Opus 120w unit or the 150w unit. Personally, I'd go for the 150w unit to have additional power to accomodate an upgrade later on.
                  However, the way things are going, an even more powerful PSU like the M2ATX or the DSATX are going to be able to be more suited to an upgrade, especially one with more computing horsepower (higher clock speed, better video & audio) than the Opus 150w.
                  I too am concerned because there is usually no return policy for goods purchased over the internet once opened, hence why I'm trying to ask now. I've only had the chance to quickly read through the FAQ, Ive not had time to actually sit down and read it through and through because finals start on wed., I want to try to order the parts now so they'll be waiting for me at home when I get there the following week.

                  My only reason for listing OPUS is because it was reccomended by a friend, since it is a PSU and startup and shutdown controller. I've not researched into other brands because I was told to just get an OPUS and call it a day, I was probably going to go with the 150w just incase I decided to add in things like bluetooth and wireless. as the saying goes, better to have much than to little.

                  I'm also trying to not spend to much on the computer since this is the first attempt and I'm not running anything super high end, just windows with itunes, windvd, and streets and trips (older version). I don't really need a screaming system in my car, it's more or less just for navi and movies. I'm hoping that my audio won't sound to terrible, which is why I'm planning on going with the sp13000 since the specs seem a little better (not much, but a little) than the MII12000, and I can get the SP for $20 more.

                  -Mike

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Slightly_Stoopi
                    I too am concerned because there is usually no return policy for goods purchased over the internet once opened, hence why I'm trying to ask now. I've only had the chance to quickly read through the FAQ, Ive not had time to actually sit down and read it through and through because finals start on wed., I want to try to order the parts now so they'll be waiting for me at home when I get there the following week.
                    First of all, your opinion of online business is very poor. Perhaps you've been burned or scammed before....
                    Any reputable online seller will offer return policy. mp3car.com, digitalww.com, logicsupply.com and others stand behind what they sell, some moreso than others. As an example, the mp3car.com store offers a no dead pixel guarantee on monitors. Armen from digitalWW offers replacement parts for monitors, purchased from DigitalWW or not.

                    My only reason for listing OPUS is because it was reccomended by a friend, since it is a PSU and startup and shutdown controller. I've not researched into other brands because I was told to just get an OPUS and call it a day, I was probably going to go with the 150w just incase I decided to add in things like bluetooth and wireless. as the saying goes, better to have much than to little.
                    That's a very good reason. There are, however, other comparable products, each with its own pros & cons.


                    I'm also trying to not spend to much on the computer since this is the first attempt and I'm not running anything super high end, just windows with itunes, windvd, and streets and trips (older version). I don't really need a screaming system in my car, it's more or less just for navi and movies. I'm hoping that my audio won't sound to terrible, which is why I'm planning on going with the sp13000 since the specs seem a little better (not much, but a little) than the MII12000, and I can get the SP for $20 more.
                    That's all well and good, but don't let frugality stand in the way of a successful project. Sometimes doing something the 'right' way conflicts with being frugal.
                    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                    How about the Wiki?



                    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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                    • #11
                      Darque, I have a question along the same lines, since I'm not very good at math... I want to power a P4 either Northwood or Prescott, probably around 3 gHz, with a rather powerful graphics card, minimum a GeForce 6800 equivalent, three harddrives, three sound cards (the built-in sound card and two others), a DVD drive and a 12 V WiFi router (3Com). Do you think there's any chance any of the mentioned PSU's (I'm looking at the DSATX right now) will be able to power such a system? Or do I have to stick to my current setup, with a powerful inverter? The problem being that I can't leave the car, even with a second battery only powering the audio and computer system, for long enough. The voltage will make the ¤"#"&%# inverter power down after half an hour or so. I would like it to last a few hours.

                      Also, if the DSATX can do it, do you think it's possible to find anything that I can hook it up to when I use the carputer in the summer cabin? Something tells me that a regular car charger won't do it, with their weak 6 amps... But there is one model I can get here in Norway that is able to put out a max of 18 amps. Do you have any idea what that would translate to in powering this computer PSU?

                      Finally, since you seem to know this place very well: Do you think it's possible to get the DSATX from the MP3 Car store programmed to what I would like?
                      Tor - The MediaSUV

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                      • #12
                        An afterthought in bed with my WM5 Atom: Could I splice the cables from a regular PSU and the car PSU and use them alternately? They would never be plugged in at the same time.
                        Tor - The MediaSUV

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mastiff
                          Darque, I have a question along the same lines, since I'm not very good at math... I want to power a P4 either Northwood or Prescott, probably around 3 gHz, with a rather powerful graphics card, minimum a GeForce 6800 equivalent, three harddrives, three sound cards (the built-in sound card and two others), a DVD drive and a 12 V WiFi router (3Com). Do you think there's any chance any of the mentioned PSU's (I'm looking at the DSATX right now) will be able to power such a system? Or do I have to stick to my current setup, with a powerful inverter? The problem being that I can't leave the car, even with a second battery only powering the audio and computer system, for long enough. The voltage will make the "#"&%# inverter power down after half an hour or so. I would like it to last a few hours.
                          The only one that could even come close would be the DSATX, and even then I'd think you'd need an additional 12v PSU for everything you want.
                          Your planned system is wholly excessive for a vehicle, and I'm certain you've been told this already.

                          Also, if the DSATX can do it, do you think it's possible to find anything that I can hook it up to when I use the carputer in the summer cabin? Something tells me that a regular car charger won't do it, with their weak 6 amps... But there is one model I can get here in Norway that is able to put out a max of 18 amps. Do you have any idea what that would translate to in powering this computer PSU?
                          I think it would be a good idea for you to learn some basic electrical concepts.

                          Finally, since you seem to know this place very well: Do you think it's possible to get the DSATX from the MP3 Car store programmed to what I would like?
                          No, and you're asking a hell of a lot at that point. You purchase the serial brainstem and program it yourself.
                          Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                          How about the Wiki?



                          Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            OK, I guess I had that one comming. I knew from reading the forum that you're not very big on civility and patience (not to mention your tagline, I had to check curmudgeon up - a crusty, ill-tempered, and usually old man according to Webster), but I was hoping that since this is a different system from everything I found and read about while browsing and searching the forum for several hours yesterday you could take this as a challenge, not as an insult.

                            First to the helpful bit of your answer: Then I guess it should be possible to connect two PSU's with a 20 pin jumper cable, a type of cable I don't know what is called, but that takes control voltage from the PSU driving the motherboard and uses that to make the other PSU give power even though it isn't connected to a mobo, so that can power the drives and the graphics card. Thanks!

                            Second: I never asked what you think is excessive for a car. Personally I find the VIA systems many here use bouth laughably simple and limiting and old fashioned, but I don't really see that as relevant, and I would never dream about using that as a part of my answer to a legitimate question. As for learning electronic skills, it would be like when somebody asks me if FFDShow will run well on an AMD Atlon XP (I'm a HTPC guy, not carputer specialist, and I do know my way around computers after 20 + years with them and 10 years with HTPC's) and I should tell them that they should learn about computer arcitechture. Which they clearly don't need, they're only asking a question I know enough about to answer without breaking a sweat, even though I have answered it before. (Oh, in case you wonder, no. An Athlon is no good. You need to run a P4 with Dual Channel memory to get the most out of the best build of FFDShow since that program lives on real clock cycles.)

                            Second, I understand that this system will demand a lot of power, wich is why I ask the questions here instead of just ordering from the shop and then complaining that it doesn't work! I would think that this the best way of doing it. I would of crouse also be willing to pay extra to get the PSU configured the way I want it, something that will probably take the people running the shop a few minutes. I'm not a native english speaker, but to me the expression "asking a hell of a lot" rings more of "demanding a lot" than actually "asking politely", right? And I don't really see a tone in my message that should warrant something like that. I'm not a programmer, and I have no need for programming (or what you call basic electrical skills, which I would consider theoretical skills - I have been installing my own stereo systems and other extra systems in cars for 25 years without any problems) except for this one project. And between running a business, taking care of a home and having a family and two dogs this really isn't something I have the time for. Which is another reason for me to ask the questions of people here that I find knowledgeable, like yourself.

                            And finally, you forgot to answer my afterthought question (or wasn't it worthy of an answer?) about the possibility of hooking up the wires of a 12 V to 12 V power supply to the wires of a regular power supply, so they can be used alternatly. To be more precise: Would it hurt any of the PSU's to have power into them from the computer side while they're not plugged in?

                            Finally, when we're on such good terms, would my best bet be to stick with the inverter and get a good gel battery instead of the regular battery to get more time out of it?

                            OK, I'm putting on my asbestos jammies, I think I may need it when you wake up and get your guns in Texas...which BTW is my favourite state, I love San Antonio and Corpus Christi and have been there several times. Only once in Dallas, though. Go Spurs!
                            Tor - The MediaSUV

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