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  • Multiple Battries

    This ones for the car stereo nuts out there.

    When adding a second battery for the ICE, do you

    a) Have it totally seperate from the rest of the cars electrics?

    b) Have it in parallel with the cars main battery

    c) Have it in parallel with the cars main battery, but with a diode inbetween the two, so it can charge of the alternator, but won't be loaded buy the rest of the car electrics.

    Answers on a post card

    Rob

    PS I can provide setchs of what I'm on about if required.
    And you say people actually pay money for M$ Windows?
    www.mp3mini.co.uk (Does what it says on the URL) www.openclassic.co.uk (The new car, with zero rust!) www.rob-web.co.uk (My other site)
    Total re-design underway: on the whole progress is very slow as the car is taking up too much time :)

  • #2
    Re: Multiple Battries

    i would choose b, will extend the ampere-hours. (50 ampere-hours = will give 1 amp 50 hours before empty)

    a would be almost impossible concidering grounds and when will it be recharged?

    c would fall beacuse of the same reasons as a.


    i've seen many cars using b, and it works for them
    -
    My cars
    -

    Comment


    • #3
      I have B with a large solenoid in line with the pos cable of the battery and the main battery and they only connect is in the run (not ACC) position or with a manual override. Good for 2 reasons.
      1)I can leave the comp/stereo in standby or on without any worries about starting my car.
      2)I can jumpstart my own car if needed. (interior lights and alcohol don't mix)
      If you come out talking sh1t don't try to turn around and wipe you azz.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Re: Multiple Battries

        Originally posted by jol
        i would choose b, will extend the ampere-hours. (50 ampere-hours = will give 1 amp 50 hours before empty)

        a would be almost impossible concidering grounds and when will it be recharged?

        c would fall beacuse of the same reasons as a.


        i've seen many cars using b, and it works for them
        With c every thing would have a common ground so the ground should be OK, and the diode will allow it to recharge, so I not sure that "c" would fail for the same reasons as "a"

        I had a feel that it would be "b" but I wanted to see what others had to say. I like the solenoid idea, it makes a lot of sense.
        And you say people actually pay money for M$ Windows?
        www.mp3mini.co.uk (Does what it says on the URL) www.openclassic.co.uk (The new car, with zero rust!) www.rob-web.co.uk (My other site)
        Total re-design underway: on the whole progress is very slow as the car is taking up too much time :)

        Comment


        • #5
          It depends on if you want the stereo to keep running no matter if you can start your car or not...or if you want to be able to start the car even though the stereo can no longer run.

          The batteries are in parallel.

          that means not in series...in series would yield 24 volts at the end...not normal for automotive installations.

          If you want both batterys to maintain a level of charge, then you have to supply electricity to them. So they both have to be connected to the alternator.

          Now...

          You want a diode bridge set up so the alternator feeds the center, to charge the extra battery and the main battery, but neither battery can feed off the other. That way you can run your stereo until it is dead, but still start your car.

          The alternatives (so to speak) are to set up the diode so alternator and main battery juice flows to the second battery...that way your stereo keeps running, but the car dies.

          Or set it up so the alternator and second battery flow to the Main battery, that way you always have max power available to crank the engine.

          Consider a capacitor like a little battery...mostly...


          My diesel truck uses two batteries in parallel with no diode because they share the workload.

          BTW you need both batteries the same type or else one will get overcharged.
          current projects

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by DodgeCummins

            You want a diode bridge set up so the alternator feeds the center, to charge the extra battery and the main battery, but neither battery can feed off the other. That way you can run your stereo until it is dead, but still start your car.

            BTW you need both batteries the same type or else one will get overcharged.
            You hit the nail on the head is this actually done, I've heard loads about 2 batterys in parallel, obviously series would be suicide.

            Thanks

            Rob
            And you say people actually pay money for M$ Windows?
            www.mp3mini.co.uk (Does what it says on the URL) www.openclassic.co.uk (The new car, with zero rust!) www.rob-web.co.uk (My other site)
            Total re-design underway: on the whole progress is very slow as the car is taking up too much time :)

            Comment


            • #7
              I still prefer the solenoid because of stereo power demands and 2 batteries that can be switched in and out of parallel can supply much more current than 2 isolated from each other and has no voltage drop.

              If you don't have high current draw then a diode setup is fine, try looking up marine supplies for a automatic battery isolator it will give a cleaner install than a DIY and some have the added circuits needed for certain alternators to charge properly.
              If you come out talking sh1t don't try to turn around and wipe you azz.

              Comment


              • #8
                Two words: battery isolator.
                Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
                Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
                "If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."

                Comment


                • #9
                  I had a friend tell me to look into getting a deep cycle battery.
                  Anybody tried this, or have any thoughts on it?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    deep cycle batteries are only to be used in situations where the battery is to be run for a long period of tim without recharging... so if you are planning on consistantly running it without the car running, then a deep cycle would be beneficial. BUT if you are only thinking of doing that once in a while you WILL severely shorting the life and effectiveness of a deep cycle battery. equipment like boats, motorized wheelchairs, electric forklifts, etc run on deep cycle batteries. the batteries are made to constatly discharge until they are nearly dead and then they are recharged. they are NOT designed for use in car electrical systems and WILL be ruined if you subject them to constant charging cycles from the car alternator. go to www.optimabatteries.com and read up on the uses, benefits, and shortcomings of the various types of batteries.

                    if your friend has any clue what he/she is talking about they would know that a deep cycle is not to be used in a car.
                    but on the flip side, i suppose a deep cycle COULD be used if it was properly installed so that it would only recharge when almost dead, and would only recharge on a regulated current, and would fully recharge before its next use.

                    ~mike
                    Single Member of the "1000 Post and No MP3 Car" Club
                    PROJECT ON INDEFINATE HOLD... BOUGHT A HOUSE
                    2000 Cavalier Z24 [###-------] Only 30% Done ... Still

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by mp3z24
                      deep cycle batteries are only to be used in situations where the battery is to be run for a long period of tim without recharging... so if you are planning on consistantly running it without the car running, then a deep cycle would be beneficial. BUT if you are only thinking of doing that once in a while you WILL severely shorting the life and effectiveness of a deep cycle battery. equipment like boats, motorized wheelchairs, electric forklifts, etc run on deep cycle batteries. the batteries are made to constatly discharge until they are nearly dead and then they are recharged. they are NOT designed for use in car electrical systems and WILL be ruined if you subject them to constant charging cycles from the car alternator. go to www.optimabatteries.com and read up on the uses, benefits, and shortcomings of the various types of batteries.

                      if your friend has any clue what he/she is talking about they would know that a deep cycle is not to be used in a car.
                      but on the flip side, i suppose a deep cycle COULD be used if it was properly installed so that it would only recharge when almost dead, and would only recharge on a regulated current, and would fully recharge before its next use.

                      ~mike
                      he was talking about designing a controller to let the deep cycle just run and when it was about dead, have it recharge off of the alternator.
                      i dunno. it sounded good, but surely there are catches

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        deep cycle batteries don't need to fully discharge before rechagring, it just means they [B]can[B] be discharged fully and recharged hundreads of times vs only afew times for a regular car battery befor it's F'd up, and can be run low (8-9v) thousands of times. The only problem with deep cycle bateries is they don't maintain as good of a charge in cold weather and usually have lower cranking amps compared to the same size car battery.

                        I've had the same trunk mounted solenoid switched deep cycle marine battery last for 5 years and 3 cars, connected so it's in parallel with the main battery when the car is running and isolated to just the stereo/amps (up to 3200Wrms at one point)when the car is off, and I average 50,000mi a year with no problems.

                        Optima's look cool and have slightly lower internal resistance but you can get what you need for a third of the price, unless you are going all out and need every milliwatt of power why bother, the money can be better spent elsewhere.
                        If you come out talking sh1t don't try to turn around and wipe you azz.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I wanna get a yellow top unther "tha hood" and I wanna replace the normal (original) battery to the back of the car, now I'm not realy sure how to connect it...I don't wanna bring 24v to my car...do I connect it like 1 or 2 in the picture? and do I need to put something between the 2 batteries (regulator...or a diode or something?)???

                          I hope someone can help me out here...

                          thanks


                          picture
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ThaBoy
                            I wanna get a yellow top unther "tha hood" and I wanna replace the normal (original) battery to the back of the car, now I'm not realy sure how to connect it...I don't wanna bring 24v to my car...do I connect it like 1 or 2 in the picture? and do I need to put something between the 2 batteries (regulator...or a diode or something?)???

                            I hope someone can help me out here...

                            thanks


                            picture
                            you have to tell us what you are trying to accomplish, and connecting it like number 1 = fire
                            Signature: [==||========] 20% complete

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                            • #15
                              so I guess option 1 is the 24V option

                              well, I want to hook all my multimedia stuff to the battery in the back of the car (so maybe I place the yellow top in the back?), so I'm sure my car will start after a movie or "open air mp3 party" but the 2 batteries gotta get
                              charged...

                              carputer/audio/tft's/...will be connected to the battery in the back of the car.

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