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  • M2-ATX Power Switch Problems

    Hello, first post here!

    I have recently purchased a M2-ATX to use in my car-pc, however I seem to be having problems with the power switch to the motherboard.
    Firstly, I've tried the motherboard by shorting the pins on the board and it boots fine, the problem only exists when connecting J8 (or J9 for that matter) to the power switch pins on the board.
    The board boots initially, then runs for a few seconds before powering down. The switch itself, after probing with my multimeter, appears to be closed permanently so it's as if the power switch is pressed all the time which would explain why the board boots up and then shuts down.
    If I connect the cable to the board momentarily and then remove it the board powers up completely and runs, until I reconnect the cable where after a few moments it shuts down.

    I've already had a search of the forum and I can't seem to find a solution, so I'm wondering if the M2-ATX unit itself is broken! Any help or advice you can offer is much appreciated!

  • #2
    Try checking that you have a good 12V power source. If running a mains power supply, ensure it has sufficient Amps to run your pc. If in the car, make sure that the wires you have connected are heavy enough.

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    • #3
      I'm having that exact same problem today. My MB reacts differently - it does nothing at all if I have the power button connected to J8 or J9 on the M2. Those pins are shorted all the time. If I unplug J8 and J9 and manually trigger the MB, the whole thing runs just fine. Therefore: The MB is OK, the M2's output is OK. The problem is the switch logic on the M2. Anyone have any advice besides an RMA?

      There's a discussion of this here (but no solution, the consensus seems the M2-ATX is fried):
      http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/powe...-searched.html

      Also here, with no solution or conclusion:
      http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/powe...x-mystery.html

      Also narrowed down to the same problem (J8 resistance not changing):
      http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/powe...m-again-2.html
      Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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      • #4
        allypally- I'm currently powering the M2-ATX from a conventional PSU, which provided plenty of power for the system to run initially so I'd assume that's not the weak link.

        cobase - You're right, your problem sounds identical. From reading the threads you linked it seems I'll just have to RMA the board! What I don't understand is why it just decided to stop working properly for no apparent reason, and I can only hope that the new one doesn't do the same.

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        • #5
          Agreed, I guess I will too. Mine failed while I was driving, so it seems pretty spontaneous to me. Just...poof. I got replies both from mini-box.com and Logic Supply.com (where I bought it):

          Logic Supply: " When you're bench testing the M2-ATX you'll want to make sure that there are
          no jumpers on the J10 panel. With the M2 hooked up correctly you should have
          the J8 connected to the power switch pins on your mainboard. Be sure that
          you've got the polarity correct for both. If one is Pos-Pos Neg-Neg and the
          other end is Pos-Neg Neg-Pos it will not work.

          mini-box:
          "We use a 1 bit BUS switch to simulate ON/OFF, if you hook up J9 in the wrong
          place you can damage it and probably 'short'... I suggest an RMA..."

          So I think that settles it for me - I thought the J8/J9 polarity was irrelevant so I can't say which way I plugged it in. They should specify that in the manual.
          Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by cobase View Post
            I thought the J8/J9 polarity was irrelevant so I can't say which way I plugged it in. They should specify that in the manual.
            Same here - in fact I can't really think of a way of confirming the polarity setup until it's actually connected! I'll have to be extra cautious when the new one arrives.

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            • #7
              I just got my M2-ATX back from LogicSupply. They fixed it under warranty with no comment about what went wrong. Not slow either - just under two weeks. I haven't tested it yet though.
              Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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              • #8
                I had my replacement last Thursday - works perfectly now and I've had no problems so far. I held my breath as I started it the first time, thankfully it worked. Fingers crossed it stays that way!

                LinITX are "investigating" the problem with the one I RMA'd, but so far I've not heard anything more from them.

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                • #9
                  Turn the switch connector round. Sounds stupid as it is just a momentry close but it works. Its something to do with how the M2 simulates a button press
                  usually found at digital-car

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                  • #10
                    Thanks Baj, I heard from others that this had worked for them, unfortunately it wasn't the case for me! My problem was that the switch logic was continually high, as if the power switch was constantly on; not a problem that could be solved by reversing the connector.

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                    • #11
                      I haven't reinstalled mine yet. When I mailed it to them, the J8 resistance was 0 Ohm, and when I got it back, it's Open. So far, so good. How do I check which way it's supposed to be plugged in?
                      Is one of the pins on the motherboard shorted to ground, and the other +5V or so?
                      How do I know which is the grounded one on the M2?
                      Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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                      • #12
                        Ok, so figuring out which pin on the motherboard is the right one is easy. Both pins are small resistances to ground (one is 6 Ohm, the other 9 Ohm), but only one (call it "signal") boots the computer when its shorted to chassis. The other does nothing, so call it "ground." Fine, good.

                        Now, on the M2-ATX, the connector on the cable is asymmetric: the bottom J8 pin goes to RED, the top pin to BLACK. Otherwise the pins are identical: Both are 3 Ohms to ground in forward bias and Open to ground in reverse (e.g. a diode), and Open to each other in both directions. So I assume the top J8 pin (RED wire) goes to the signal pin on the motherboard, and the other J8 pin (bottom, black wire) goes to the ground pin on the motherboard. I think only this way makes sense though I'd like some confirmation from mini-box or someone else who knows more than I do.

                        I mean I could hook the thing up, turn on the 12V to the ACC signal and watch what the M2-ATX J8 pins do with a voltmeter... but that's such a pain to set up I guess I'll do it anyway just to be dead-certian.
                        Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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                        • #13
                          Hey cobase, did you get everything sorted out in the end?

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                          • #14
                            Uh... yes, for a few glorious minutes before I put the case cover on wrong and shorted out the M2-ATX, fried it and killed the motherboard.
                            Ah, the smell of fried circuitry in the morning.
                            Second M2-ATX on its way.... ou$h.
                            Elantra GT 1.2GHz Duron, RoadRunner & LSX Void 3.2. Status: Stable...

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                            • #15
                              What pins did you short on the M2-ATX which caused your motherboard to fry? All these stories of M2-ATXs killing motherboards makes me feel nervous...

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