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M2-atx hard off when turning ingnition off

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  • M2-atx hard off when turning ingnition off

    Having really hard time installing my carpc. When turning the ingnition on (acc) m2-atx would start the carpc but while starting the car (ingnition on) would shut down hard. When turning off (from on to acc) again hard off instead of graceful shutdown. Works fine on bench or in the car with a simulated ingnition switch (connects to ground or +12v manually). So i figured it has something to do with the ingnition. Do get 0v in off position and +12v in acc/on. Even works if i disconnect the j3 while it's booting when starting the car. The jumpers are in p1 mode but tried other options and get the same behavior. The only thing i could think of is the automatic shut down when voltage drops below 11v, but it would not explain why it does it when turning off or why it does not when j3 is disconnected. Any help would be highly appreciated.

  • #2
    Did you test the volage on the +12v line with ignition on and off?
    It sounds like the +12v line is being switched on/of w/ the ignition, at least at initial glance.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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    • #3
      connected a test line directly to the battery. same goes for the ground line

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      • #4
        Did another test. Connected power and and ground to an external power supply and j3 to the ignition from the car. Same result, shuts down hard when starting the car or turning it off. The igition reads 0v in "off" position, 12v in "acc"/"on" and disconnected in "start" one

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        • #5
          But did you test the voltage on the +12v line with the ignition on and the ignition off?

          I don't know what your issue is, but at first glance, it appears that the +12v line is being switched off by the ignition, which would cause the hard off like you describe.
          I don't know that this is the case, but measuring that voltage is certainly a good starting point.
          Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
          How about the Wiki?



          Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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          • #6
            Perv is right...everyone should own a decent, inexpensive multimeter...
            With that said, are you sure your ACC/IGN into the M2 isn't being shutoff when you crank the motor?
            Another user had his ACC in wired to a radio power wire...and of course, the car kills power to the radio when the motor is cranked...

            You best bet is to hook the ACC line directly to the ACC line of the car...

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            • #7
              Thank you for your replies. I do own a miltimeter and i don't hesitate to use it it's not that i assembled the whole thing and it did not work, i have exausted all possibilities doing all kinds of test for 2 days, i have searched the web, no one seemed to have this issue, which means either i did something wrong, or i have a defective psu, but:
              1. It works fine in the car/on the bench if i manually connect j3 to the ground or to +12
              2. I did measure all voltages while turning it on/off, cranking and so on. I get around +12 on the "battery" j1 line in the "off" position. It drops down to around +11.4v when i turn it on ("acc"/"on"). Does not drop much while cranking and goes to around +14v with engine running.
              3. Since multimeter might not display a short disconnection (you'd need an osciloscope to see in real time what's going on) an to eliminate all doubts i connected it directly to the battery, both j1 and j4, and i mean physically connected 2 temp line to the car battery.
              4. Still i thought during cranking the voltage might drop below +11v treshold and could cause the abrupt shot down (eventhough i didn't see on my multimeter). But last night i connected power and ground (j1 and j4) to an external power supply and hooked j3 to the "ig1" from my car (0v in "off", around 11.4v in "on"/"acc", disconnected in "start"/cranking engine and +14v while runnig). It booted up fine when i turn the ignition on and shut down when starting the car. Booted up from the scratch again and did the hard shutdown when turning the ignotion off.
              So i am positive it's not wrong wiring and has something to do with "ig1" line in my car, and i can't figure out what it is.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by asavvinv View Post
                ...and hooked j3 to the "ig1" from my car (0v in "off", around 11.4v in "on"/"acc", disconnected in "start"/cranking engine and +14v while runnig).
                Did you just skip over my post and not read it?? WTF...

                "Disconnected in start/cranking"...
                No wonder it's shutting off!! It's getting an ON signal when on ACC, then it's getting an OFF then ON again signal when you crank 'er over!

                YOU NEED TO CONNECT J3 TO A CONSTANT 'SWITCHED ON' SOURCE!!!
                It MUST stay ON even when your cranking the car...

                The easiest way to do this is to connect J3 directly to the cars ACC line at the ignition key harness...not anywhere else.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by wungun View Post
                  "disconnected in start/cranking"...
                  No wonder it's shutting off!! It's getting an on signal when on acc, then it's getting an off then on again signal when you crank 'er over!
                  i'm not sure if acc disconnects during cranking, according to my car diagram it does, but that's not the point. The m2 takes care of it, once booted it goes in autolatch mode and no matter what signal you get on j3 (0, +12v, or disconnected) for the next 60s it would stay on. After that it would use the j3 input to determine whether to do the shutdown or stay on. That's how it is supposed to be and how it is - tested on the bench. While booting up i manually disconnected j3, connected it to the ground wire, repeated several times - as long as it gets power on j1 it would stay on. Anyway that was my next step try to connect j3 to different inputs. Thanks for tour suggestion anyway

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                  • #10
                    It needs to be asked yet again....

                    Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
                    But did you test the voltage on the +12v line with the ignition on and the ignition off?
                    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
                    How about the Wiki?



                    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by asavvinv View Post
                      2. I did measure all voltages while turning it on/off, cranking and so on. I get around +12 on the "battery" j1 line in the "off" position. It drops down to around +11.4v when i turn it on ("acc"/"on"). Does not drop much while cranking and goes to around +14v with engine running.
                      problem solved.
                      Something weird is going on with the acc line. I am really surprised no rsx owners have reported this problem before, probably they used different psu's. I just added a relay in the j3 line. That is, the acc signal open/closes the relay connecting com to the ground/const +12v. Worked like a charm. My guess would be while cranking or turning it off there is a high voltage spike or negative voltage or something of the kind. The relay takes care of it. The fact that acc disconnects (and it does) while cranking is not a problem, as i mentioned, because of the autolatch. Actually if you start your car after 60s from the time you turn it on the pc would shutdown properly, but i can live with that.
                      Thank for all your inputs

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                      • #12
                        What exactly is the J3 connected to in your car?

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                        • #13
                          Acc which was connected to the original stereo

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by asavvinv View Post
                            Acc which was connected to the original stereo
                            lol

                            Again, read my post a few back...
                            ALL cars KILL the power going to the radio (and other components) when the starter is cranked, to prevent electrical feedback damage to the sensitive electronics...

                            The easiest fix for your problem would of been just to wire it to the ACC line at the ignition switch ...

                            Went thru 3 ******* pages of this very topic with another newb just this week! And it turned out he wired his J3 the exact same way you did...

                            I'm done...
                            Try using 'Search' and lock this thread!

                            lol

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                            • #15
                              you don't follow me. it is still wired to acc, and still gets no power during cranking. that was NOT the problem. i have not changed anything except for cleaning up the acc signal by putting it through the relay.

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