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illlumniated light switch for M-2 gets hot

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  • illlumniated light switch for M-2 gets hot

    Hi, Folks,

    I bought a illuminated light switch (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=060-714) to control 12v accessory line for M-2. I wired it with 16 awg wire (about 6 ft), and the light is on when the m-2 (which powers xbox) is on. Everything works fine, but the switch gets hot when the light is on. Is it normal or something that I should worry about. The current rating of the lllumninated switch is 20AMP. And I used 16awg wire as the accessory line for M-2 does not seem to use a lot of power. I am not sure I am supposed to use fuse or not. Any help would be appreciated.

  • #2
    Fuses should always be used at the power end to protect the downstream cabling (before the next fuse if any).

    Does the switch get hot if the lamp is disconnected (eg - it's ground lead disconnected)?
    If not, then it sounds like a hot lamp.

    Otherwise it is the current draw (or crap switch). I once had an illuminated paddleswitch rated at 16A for my 8A fan. The switch eventually melted.

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    • #3
      it's very possible that they are using a filiment bulb to illuminate the switch--in this case, it would be expected that it would heat up..

      if you unplug the illumination wire like oldspark recommended, and it still heats up, then you will need to get a different switch to better handle the load.

      if it turns out that you need a new switch, i would recommend getting led-illuminated version.
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided

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      • #4
        OldSpark and soundman98,

        Switch does not get hot if the lamp is disconnected, so it seems to be a hot bulb as you guys suggested. Thanks also for the informationa about fuse. I am planning to replace the switch with a led illuminated switch though. Thank you for the information!

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        • #5
          Thanks for the thanks. And thanks to Soundman - he often translates for me!

          FWIW - instead of using hi-current switches, I prefer relays.
          That's mainly because of switch aging and heating etc. As a rule of thumb, I'll relay anything around 10A upwards, but often less.
          Inductive/sparky circuits (fans, pumps, wipers, etc) usually much less (5A etc).
          If found that after 20 years, my switches were getting warm (1960's model cars - they just didn't have quality in those days (LOL!!)).

          But the BIG advantage is a greater selection of cool switches at cheaper price. (Cool as in sick - not hot - as in temperature - as opposed to cool switches in a hot car - not stolen, but real sick.)
          As to my old "cool" 16A illuminated paddle switches - they control relays instead!

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          • #6
            i have 8 switches in my car similar to this-mine were purchased from local auto parts stores, but have a similar look:
            http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=060-774
            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


            next project? subaru brz
            carpc undecided

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            • #7
              I've used the same type of switch that Soundman listed and had no problems. I don't think I was running more than 10 amps through it.
              Originally posted by ghettocruzer
              I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
              Want to:
              -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
              -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

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              • #8
                anyone know where you can order some really 'stylish' switches? ive been looking and i find a lot of normal pushbutton and rocker switches... just wondering if anyone makes some really elegant designed switches without being totally expensive...

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                • #9
                  what kind are you looking for?
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yeah, not sure exactly what "stylish" in this context means. There's mouser electronics, just about anything electronics related, I'm sure they'd have 98% of what would be available. I just use an LED embedded SPST NO momentary for mine that I got at rag-shack, as I wanted to use the external PSU's led connector to see the PSU's status from the outside on the startup/shutdown motherboard button I would mount. I'm sure there are fancier options available at mouser though. Matching LED color with dash color illumination, etc..

                    My application is of course different from your own, but I'm relatively certain they'd have something that you'd want. Will need to narrow down the selection to DC with the correct lamp, amperage rating, and of course type (rocker I think you wanted), as the link I list above will give all available switches.
                    2008 Ford Mustang GT/CS CARPC(99%)
                    Software: Ride/Road-Runner, Digital FX skin 5.x, iGuidance 2011, GPSgate on Win7 64bit

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                    • #11
                      I rarely consider current rating an issue (except for membrane and keyboard switches).
                      For anything over a few Amps, I use relays etc - especially if switch style is important.

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