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AMPCTRL via USB to serial adapter

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  • AMPCTRL via USB to serial adapter

    Is this sort of configuration possible? it seems to be the simplest fix to my amp thump problem.

    My setup (not the whole thing, just the components related to this thread):
    Win7 with RR shell Installed on laptop (Sony VAIO PCG GRT-100)
    Carnetix P1900
    USB Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround Card (the one with the volume knob)
    Alpine 4ch amp
    and
    Kenwood 2ch amp


    My Problem
    Once ignition is on, Carnetix powers up computer then the DLYON powers amps

    (when resuming from sleep, the sound drivers are never turned off thus i have no thump problem. for the sake of this thread, im talking about a cold boot) the boot process ends, two thumps. then win7/RR shell loads, and two more loud thumps.

    im assuming the two "thump inducing" events are when: 1. power is applied to the USB sound card, and 2. when the sound drivers are loaded (after windows). I dont think i can use a simple time delay to turn on amps since im not always cold booting (sometimes will be booting right out of hybrid sleep)

    The reason for needing the configuration in the title, this laptop does not have a serial port, only a parellel port and obviously USB. Will this AMPCTRL program work via a USB to serial adapter? ive never used the program before but my solution needs to be software based as i explained earlier i cant use a simple time delay.

  • #2
    I remember showing this idea to someone a long time ago. The basic idea was to turn the amp(s) on when the LED on the USB audio device is on using an optocoupler or relay. Just another option.

    Comment


    • #3
      that sounds like it could definately work, i already have a bosch type relay that is pretty much only in place to split the remote signal, im sure i could use that. what is an optocoupler? my knowledge and experience in electrics is limited, but would i just hook a wire from the LED to the trigger of the relay, with the relay connecting the remote and my amps?

      Comment


      • #4
        You can't just connect the LED driver circuit directly to a relay because it's not likely to be able to drive that much current, and will die. An optocoupler or optoisloator is like an IR LED and phototransistor that works kind of like a little solid state relay. I use them a lot in the timers I sell. Oh for antithump too. plug! The top diagram uses a NPN transistor (2N3904 is fine) to sense the voltage going to the LED turning on and drive the relay. Hmm, a 1K resistor in series on the base would be better. The relay wouldn't need the remote wire. Just connect the Bosch coil + to 12V, coil- to the collector, one side of the relay contacts to 12V and the other to the amps.

        Comment


        • #5
          okay, first off im going to say thanks alot for helpin me out.

          I have done a bit of research, and i do know now (basically) the function of an optocoupler and i am beginning to understand how to apply it to my thump problem, however i must admit i still am quite confused.

          The two diagrams you posted: are they two separate setups? or must both of these be set up in order for it to work? i notice the LEDs are labeled 1 & 2, does this mean two separate LEDs?

          My simple understanding: LED connects to optocoupler; which connects to the trigger of a relay; which is my switch connecting 12v remote and my amps.

          Is this correct? i know i did not mention a transistor or resistor, what are these for?



          Another thing i thought of;
          the boot process ends, two thumps. then win7/RR shell loads, and two more loud thumps.
          If the amps are powered along with the LED of the sound card, i assume i would be avoiding the first set of thumps in the boot process, but would i be avoiding the second (i assumed the second set of thumps were from software loading, not from hardware powering on) so if this is the case, my solution MUST be software related or else i would only be 'fixing' the "hardware related" (first set) thumps.

          Has anyone had experience with using ampctrl or other software to power their amps, without having an open serial port?
          again, i have USB and parellel ports.

          Comment


          • #6
            You have 2 other options in my opinion :

            1.PAC TR-7 - I use it and it works well , Hardware solution ( Time delay )

            2.USB Relay - Pretty cool software solution..
            http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-One-Relay-Co...item1c10561250

            Both should work quite well and don't require a serial port

            EDIT :
            Scratch the TR7 solution , I just realized u can't do time-delay :\
            But the other solution is still valid..
            HeadUnit : Car-Pc | Processor : JBL MS-8 | Front Stage : Woofer - Mpyre 65M , Mid - Dayton RS100-4 , Tweeter - Tang-Band Ceramic 25-1719S | Subwoofer : Hertz HX250D | Amps : A/D/S PQ10 , Hifonics Olympus XI , SPL AB03445 | Wiring : Sommer , Neutrik

            Comment


            • #7
              wow madboy, that USB relay looks to be exactly what i need.

              Do you, or anyone else know if this USB relay could be used in conjuction with the AMPCTRL software? Upon installation of the USB driver, this relay creates a virtual COM3 port.

              Also the three relay contacts on the USB component are labeled NC, C, and NO

              im guessing C would be Control (again its a guess)

              Are these standard acronyms used with relays? or does someone have a similar product for reference?

              Comment


              • #8
                I don't know if this can be used with AMPCTRL but you can write a simple vb / c code to control it
                And I remember that I saw that someone compiled a simple command line app that u can use - If you wan't I can try to find it

                NC = Normally Closed
                NO = Normally Open
                C = Common

                Yes , It's standard relay acronyms

                http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay


                EDIT :

                Ok , Here is a little app you can use to control the relay
                http://paragrama.net/blog/2009/06/20...hop-usb-relay/

                Enjoy
                HeadUnit : Car-Pc | Processor : JBL MS-8 | Front Stage : Woofer - Mpyre 65M , Mid - Dayton RS100-4 , Tweeter - Tang-Band Ceramic 25-1719S | Subwoofer : Hertz HX250D | Amps : A/D/S PQ10 , Hifonics Olympus XI , SPL AB03445 | Wiring : Sommer , Neutrik

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by J_Eatwell View Post
                  okay, first off im going to say thanks alot for helpin me out.

                  I have done a bit of research, and i do know now (basically) the function of an optocoupler and i am beginning to understand how to apply it to my thump problem, however i must admit i still am quite confused.

                  The two diagrams you posted: are they two separate setups? or must both of these be set up in order for it to work? i notice the LEDs are labeled 1 & 2, does this mean two separate LEDs?

                  My simple understanding: LED connects to optocoupler; which connects to the trigger of a relay; which is my switch connecting 12v remote and my amps.

                  Is this correct? i know i did not mention a transistor or resistor, what are these for?



                  Another thing i thought of;

                  If the amps are powered along with the LED of the sound card, i assume i would be avoiding the first set of thumps in the boot process, but would i be avoiding the second (i assumed the second set of thumps were from software loading, not from hardware powering on) so if this is the case, my solution MUST be software related or else i would only be 'fixing' the "hardware related" (first set) thumps.

                  Has anyone had experience with using ampctrl or other software to power their amps, without having an open serial port?
                  again, i have USB and parellel ports.
                  The schematic was 2 different ideas. One being a transistor and relay, and the other an optocoupler. Either one connected to the existing LED's anode. To test if this would have worked would be to watch the LED and if it's on when the amps thump, then it won't.

                  Here's an example of a Bosch relay. 87a is N.C. 87 is N.O. and 30 is Common.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I am using one of these

                    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...cted+528T.html

                    to delay the remote start on my diesel (for the glow plugs).

                    This will adjust between 0-90 sec delay. For 20 bucks, it should be an easy solution unless someone can think of a reason why it would not work.
                    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My TMR-4 would work as a delay on and could actually be powered by the DLYON output and replace the relay driving the amp remote wires making it all clean and simple, but he can adjust the DLYON. That's not the problem. It's standby. A timer could add a delay allowing for more adjustment but it can't do anything during standby because the power supply doesn't change state.

                      The TMR-4 trigger could actually be connected directly to the LED for example without interfering with it, then the timer can be adjusted to delay off that input. Like say 2 seconds from turn on and 0 from off.

                      The main requirement for this is to have the amps turn on after the audio device powers up and charges all the capacitors, and turn off at the exact same time it powers off or sooner if that were possible.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        In my car I use USB Relay from Madboy link. Im write simple plugin for Centrafuse for it. I use it to turnig on my amplifiers. I can adjust delay, turn on/off with centrafuse, manual turn on/off...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          That would be the best option because you can switch it off before entering standby or shutting down and after resuming plus you can adjust the delay a bit if it turns on too soon.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by J_Eatwell View Post
                            wow madboy, that USB relay looks to be exactly what i need.

                            Do you, or anyone else know if this USB relay could be used in conjuction with the AMPCTRL software? Upon installation of the USB driver, this relay creates a virtual COM3 port.

                            Also the three relay contacts on the USB component are labeled NC, C, and NO

                            im guessing C would be Control (again its a guess)

                            Are these standard acronyms used with relays? or does someone have a similar product for reference?
                            I use a USB relay to shut off my powered VGA splitters. As for my amps, i use a PAC-TR4 connected to a serial port. Problem is alot of motherboards are phasing out Com ports. When I bought my Zotac it has no Com port, so I thought. I bought a Serial to USB converter but this one acts like a real serial port. My understanding is that the cheapy converters dont work. My serial to usb is called a Keyspan USB 4-port Serial Adapter. It works with my HD Radio and XM Radio via Mitch's serial cables. I have to assume that AMPCTRL works since HD Radio and XM work and they need specific stuff from the usb to serial device in order to emulate properly, the cheapies dont offer that sometimes. Only reason I didnt test the AMP_CTRL was because it turns out the MoBo had a Com Port on a header, and since my car is wired a specific way, it saved me time.

                            Originally posted by _Dejan_ View Post
                            In my car I use USB Relay from Madboy link. Im write simple plugin for Centrafuse for it. I use it to turnig on my amplifiers. I can adjust delay, turn on/off with centrafuse, manual turn on/off...
                            I forgot all about your plugin. I am going to have to try that out because I prefer my screens to turn on when CF is on.

                            PS: Kind of a side question, so AMP_CTRL does work with Win 7? It is the only program that was keeping me on XP because I need this to activate my amps.
                            Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

                            1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
                            4X MK808b
                            3x Perixx Touchpads
                            3x 7 inch Screens
                            1X 7 inch motorized Screen
                            1x Win 7 PC

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              wow guys thanks for all the replies and the ideas. Just got back for the weekend and read all the posts, and im torn between using the USB relay and curiosity's idea: using the sound card's LED.

                              I have to go out to the garage today (i took the weekend off) and ill take note of when the LEDs turn on/off so that i can decide if this solution will work for me.

                              While the LED trick requires an optocoupler and some soldering, i feel more comfortable with soldering etc. than i do with writing software (what i would have to do to integrate the USB relay into my RR shell)

                              On the other hand, this USB relay is (hardware-wise) the simplest solution, and if i was able to write a plugin to automate the relay, i think it would be pretty cool being able to manually power on/off my amps from a menu button in RR.


                              Does anyone use this USB relay and also RR? maybe there is already a plugin? or possibly I could modify the plugin used for CF? i am NO programmer

                              Comment

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